Hi,

Second question tonight :confused:. Does anyone know how often a Scout's Haldex clutch needs its oil replacing? Is this a DIY job? Is it just an oil drain and fill, or are there any filters to replace?

Also, does the Scout suffer from wind up if the front/rear tyres are newer/older and of a greater/smaller diameter?

Many thanks,

Hi there. Not completely certain but I believe that the Haldex needs it's oil changed every 4 years and I "think" there is a filter. I've not had it done yet but I'm pretty certain that was what I was told at the last service when I asked.

As for wind up again not sure - I wouldn;t think so but I have heard of problems with the ABS flagging a fault with worn/unworn tyres on different wheels due to the differing rolling diameters.

On the Golf R32's (mk4 and mk5) the haldex oil needs changing every 20,000 miles, and the filter needs changing at 40,000 miles.

It is diy'able, but you need a specific Haldex filter wrench which is about £15 from various places.

If you have a look on VWvortex (r32 forums) there are plenty of detailed write ups on how it's done mate.

Regard tyres, the advice I have been given both by a VW and Skoda dealer on 4motion/4x4 haldex is as follows:

Preferably same manufacturer and pattern on all 4

Definitely on a given axle

Tread depth on a given axle should be roughly the same

Tread depth between axles 2-3mm max, with the greater on the front if replacing on one axle.

Oil & filter change for Haldex Golf 4motion 2.0tdi, 4 years or 40,000 miles whichever comes first.

Edited 18 August, 200916 yr by The Plumber
oil change

Also, does the Scout suffer from wind up if the front/rear tyres are newer/older and of a greater/smaller diameter?

It shouldn't be a problem, a slight difference in axle speeds will only result in slight slip and hence little or no clutch activation. This is one of the specific advantages of the Haldex system.

Wind up is a problem with more traditional 4x4 systems where the front and rear axles are locked together (usually via a centre-diff).

As someone else said though, it's not a bad idea to keep your tyres in roughly similar nick, I'd actually think that's good advice for ANY vehicle though, 2wd or 4wd!?

:confused: Well my spare is a 16" 205 would that not cause the haldex to cut in all of the time ? cheers - Stuart.

I've driven my Golf R32 on a stupidly skinny space saver tyre without problems.

So I wouldn't worry too much.

The car won't suddenly blow up because you're using a different sized spare tyre

:confused: Well my spare is a 16" 205 would that not cause the haldex to cut in all of the time ? cheers - Stuart.

That info is not much use without the tyre profile figure! It's no good knowing the wheel size without knowing the size of the tyre fitted to it.

Either way, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Haldex is supposed to be much less (if at all?) susceptable to wind-up issues than other 4x4 systems.

No 4x4 system that's running 3 diff's will ever suffer from wind up (Range Rovers run 2 diffs with a viscous coupling instead of the mid diff AFAIK, again making them immune). The last vehicle I can think of (That's not for off road use only) that suffered these issues was the first model Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun (20+ years ago) which didn't have a centre diff and therefore couldn't be driven on the road in 4WD mode due to wind up. The Haldex system waits for the front wheels to slip before sending drive to the rear and AFAIK disconnects as soon as it can, so no time for wind-up even if there's no sprag clutch/diff in the drive train.

One thing that worries me with the Haldex system is what happens if you lose grip and start understeering in a bend and it sends drive to the rear wheels in response to the front wheels skidding...

I've got a pdf file on how to change the oil.

PM if you'd like it.

No 4x4 system that's running 3 diff's will ever suffer from wind up (Range Rovers run 2 diffs with a viscous coupling instead of the mid diff AFAIK, again making them immune). The last vehicle I can think of (That's not for off road use only) that suffered these issues was the first model Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun (20+ years ago) which didn't have a centre diff and therefore couldn't be driven on the road in 4WD mode due to wind up. The Haldex system waits for the front wheels to slip before sending drive to the rear and AFAIK disconnects as soon as it can, so no time for wind-up even if there's no sprag clutch/diff in the drive train.

One thing that worries me with the Haldex system is what happens if you lose grip and start understeering in a bend and it sends drive to the rear wheels in response to the front wheels skidding...

it is tied in with the ESP so if it thinks the car is sliding it wont suddenly send it into oversteer due to power going to the rear, speaking of which, having only driven a haldex car a few times, found they hold the road very well and the front end tends to wash out before the backend will shift, nothing that cant be sorted with a bit off lift off or oposite lock :P

Provided you can't get a Haldex car without ESP it's safe enough then ...

Is the reliability good on them? Mostly wondering as there'll be quite a bit of shock loading through the Haldex clutch when it kicks in on pulling away quickly on a slippery road for example. Will doing this kill it?

I'd rather a full quattro system than a switched one, but will live without either of them given how little time I plan to spend in situations where 4WD would be beneficial ...

I've never heard of them being a problem, i'd have one tomorrow if they were available with the TDi 170