I have Felicia 1,3MPI with faulty alternator's regulator. Alternator is PAL TYPE 443 113 516 661 ( 70A).

I also have old but working Favorit's alternator type 443 113 516 631 ( 55A).

Can I replace regulator from Favorit's alternator to the Felicia's ?

Felicia's alternator has 15A more current and has additional white plastic piece with markings ECIA CD01 ( 2,2uF capacitor + a diode)?

Goran

I think that you can.

A regulator works on the field provided by the rotating parts and is governed by the output in volts 14.4 typically. The Amps are produced by the stationery parts through the diodes to the battery. Swapping the regulator can usually be ok. The best way is to cross reference the part numbers on the regulator, these often get superceeded as newer models appear. So the later model has a different number for basically the same regulator. Parts are where the money is made now days. I have a 1.3 showing 17.2v with a faulty regulator. So without getting too technical I could swap the reg, but I will be checking the whole alternator before I do. As reg's can be very sensitive to abnormal loads, they can simply blow, yet this model appears to have a limp home mode (17.2V !). Mileage 38000 on a 2000.

TNS,

Do you have a question or do you want to share how a voltage regulator works using a topic answered 8 years ago?

Google sent me to this and no doubt others will do the same. The regulator has been found and bought from JCR Supplies, [email protected]. These seem to be very sensitive to high loads, i.e. jump starts. If I could replace it, I would use a Bosch or Lucas unit. The type and lack of numbers add to the identification to get the correct regulator.
http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/ALTERNATOR_REBUILD_PARTS/_MAGNETON_PAL_SKODA_ALTERNATOR_REGULATORS/ALTERNATOR_REGULATOR_FOR_SKODA_FALICIA__FAVORIT_12V_REF_133417.html

Just to clarify things on topic, the voltage regulator for Felicia is equivalent with the one on Favorit given it is rated for the same maximum current (70A or 90A)

The regulator simply cuts out at 14.4 Volts, the switching is automatic and the output in amps is from the coils in the body of the Alternator via the diodes. Depending on the wiring and make up of the static coils, the Amps produced will be to the maximum of their make up. The rotor wiring is energized via the regulator, inside the the silver box is a simple circuit that "dumps" the over voltage once reaching 14.4V Max. In service the average for most cars is around 13.5 Volts after 20 minutes running. This type of regulator used on these is shared with many other amperage types. The Alternator should have a number on it. I did not find one on mine as it is the original, 38,000 miles. Normally I would declare this to be too soon for failure. So I can only think it has had a hard life of short journeys. I have ordered a replacement regulator and will update, once fitted. I see from many sites that the regulator is spread over a large range of this maker, I can only suggest that as its not amps it controls, the voltage control is common amongst this type.

On Bosch type alternators they employ different types, these tend to be matched to the engine or speed that the alternator turns. With flat drive belts and the configuration of the drive, the speed can be a problem when a vehicle is used in traffic and no optimum speed is obtained. Hence Bosch's range of units.

19 hours ago, TNS said:

I can only suggest that as its not amps it controls, the voltage control is common amongst this type.

It's not the output amps the voltage regulator controls indeed but the field current that in turn controls the output of the alternator. Different output current alternators have different field current characteristic hence the necessity of using different voltage regulators.