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Goodbye Skoda......

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Well, I'm calling it a day with my Octavia ownership after two months of problems.

I called Skoda customer services this morning expressing my disappointment that a 5 year old car is

irreparable, to be advised that it is very rare, but does happen. I do understand that no codes make it far more

difficult to resolve.

It only has 75K on the clock too....

My first and last Skoda sadly.

Oh dear.

I expressed my dissappointment that I can't find a sunroof seal for my Favorit, its a decade older than the Octavia though!!

What problems and how is it irrepairable?

  • Author

misfire/judder under load on a 2.0TDI.

Still does it after the tandem pump was replaced.

They've tried everything with no success. No codes are being logged, so doesn't help matters.

Sounds like an EGR fault to me. Find a better dealer or specialist imho.

I can't believe that it's so bad that it's not worth repairing.

Look around for a good garage and get it sorted - no matter how much it costs it has to be cheaper than buying a replacement car.

If you really do think it is beyond repair, I'll give you £50.00 for it and use it as spares for mine B)

D

I have come across the "no fault code no problem" attitude, def find another dealer or a derv specialist who can look after you.

Well, I'm calling it a day with my Octavia ownership after two months of problems.

I called Skoda customer services this morning expressing my disappointment that a 5 year old car is

irreparable, to be advised that it is very rare, but does happen. I do understand that no codes make it far more

difficult to resolve.

It only has 75K on the clock too....

My first and last Skoda sadly.

- Dual Mass Flywheel failing

- Injectors injecting the wrong quantity (This sounds quite possible as it's under load and can be checked with VAG-COM)

- EGR

- Sticking throttle body.

- Air Flow Sensor (Sometimes called MAF)

There are five to get you started. If you find an indy garage, I am sure they can check these and give you a real answer. I don't for a second believe it would cost anything like the cost of a new engine, which even if it was that would still cost less than the car is worth.

Try one of the specialist VAG tuners like Jabbasport, they push the cars further & tend to find more of the inherent faults, It may even be a remap cures it so you get a quicker & more economical car as well

A new engine won't solve the problem anyway I wouldn't have thought as all the ancilliaries and sensors would be swapped over from the old one!

Injector wiring loom is another problematic component to consider. The injector system is very limited in what it can report back to the ECU.

The 'no code, no problem' attitude stinks doesn't it?

I can appreciate it makes it very difficult to diagnose a fault that isn't technically being reported via a code but we all used to drive and repair cars before we became dependant on the engine telling us what the problem is.

Another problem is the cost involved in stripping the engine to have a good look around, Skoda wanted almost a grand off me to strip the engine and send the suspect cylinder head off for testing before they would honour anything under warranty.

SUK's after sales attitude is awful IMO but I think its a common trend these days :thumbdown:

This is very IMHO but I think the 2.0TDI engine in all of its variants is the worst that VAG have ever produced. I would have had the PD130 lump in my L&K a million times over if I could. My old PD130 did almost 100k on a 160PS remap and it didn't miss a beat.

Our 110 Octy 1 was mapped to 160 at 8000 miles, now on 156000 & apart from killing a turbo at around 100K its been fine, Modern designs are driven as much by so called emission regs as anything else so to many comprimises have to be made in the design & tuning has to be so fine

The 'no code, no problem' attitude stinks doesn't it?

First excuse of someone that doesn't know what they are talking about. OP: take it elsewhere.

On PD engines, faulty injector loom/connectors are a known problem which gives rise to juddering/misfiring under load (when the engine vibrates the most). Often just unpluggling the injector connectors and cleaning them with solvent (e.g. brake cleaner) cures the problem (at least temporarily). On certain VAG models/years (IIRC Ford Galaxy mkII fitted with VW PD engines), the loom was redesigned and in some cases replaced FOC.

Faulty injector loom/connectors dont give error codes.

  • Author

Thanks for all the replies guys.

The car broke down this morning again. Misfired quite badly in 2nd, 3rd 4th etc.... Then had to stop at a roundabout and its back to the

old cutting out when any load is applied. (fourth breakdown). I did notice the coil light coming on briefly this morning during the misfires !

Engine starts first time, hot or cold.

Restarts after it cuts out fine and seems to rev freely enough, just dies when load is applied.

Strange thing is it cuts out in 1st gear, but will go backwards slowly ok ??? I can only think its to do with gearing ?

Car was in the garage for 4 weeks after the third breakdown. Summary of work carried out to date, none of which have helped really.

Software update

Tandem pump, fuel pump (oil in fuel)

Tanks drained and mopped twice, lines cleaned.

New fuel filter (twice)

Injectors, seals and loom replaced with "known good"

EGR function checked...

The dealer has been working with Skoda uk with no success.

I did get some codes from the car this morning, but these were gone by the time the AA arrived to scan it.

Address 01: Engine Labels: None

Part No SW: 03G 906 016 HF HW: 028 101 139 1

Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 8658

Coding: 0000072

Shop #: WSC 25089

2 Faults Found:

17036 - Sensor Reference Voltage B: Too Low

P0652 - 000 - -

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 1596 /min

Torque: 94.0 Nm

Speed: 0.0 km/h

Bin. Bits: 00100000

Bin. Bits: 00100000

Bin. Bits: 00100000

Bin. Bits: 00100000

Bin. Bits: 00100000

16706 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal

P0322 - 000 - -

Freeze Frame:

RPM: 1071 /min

Torque: 44.0 Nm

Speed: 0.0 km/h

Load: 14.1 %

Voltage: 13.98 V

Bin. Bits: 00101100

Idle Stabilization: 0.0 CF

RPM: 420 /min

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0

My guess would be either a faulty engine wiring loom, it has happened that the plastic on the outside of some of the many wires inside the "sleeve" wears through and this leads to corrosion of the wires inside the protective sleeve in front of the gearbox.. Could log a fault like the ones posted above. I have seen this on several Octavia TDI cars with milage similar to the original posters car. You can usually see the "green dust" (from corroded copper) on wires after the protective ribbed plastic sleeve has been split.

Second guess would be the G-28 sensor itself. Should be relatively easy to diagnose with the oscilioscope on the dealer diagnostics tool if the fault is reproducable.

I hope you find someone who can fix your car fast, and that it doesn't cost a fortune :yes:

  • 1 month later...

I have a similar problem with my Octavia 1.9 TDi 105.

At 73,000 miles it started to misfire between 1800-3000 rpm only most of the time. If I accelerated normally or under load it would misfire; I'd have to accelerate very gently for it not to or change down so that the revs were above 3000. Unfortunately, I was travelling to a wedding 300 miles away at the time and didn't take it to the dealer until I was back in Scotland which, with the benefit of hindsight, almost certainly caused more damage to the engine. It was particularly rough when cold and produced a lot of white cloudy exhaust fumes too. The misfire was spread across a wider rev range when cold too - lower but still not more than 3000.

The engine required major work, including in order that they were diagnosed - new camshaft (wear on third cylinder) and followers, new injector (3rd cylinder), new injector seals on remaining cylinders, new short engine (wear to 3rd cylinder - poss crank too - can't recall) and finally a new tandem pump (the spinning thingy had sheared on one side). The cost to me of putting this right was probably only £600 (The total bill was about £1200 but this included a service, new cam built and waterpump obviously, possibly 2 new disks and pads).

Now, at 109,000 miles and just over two years and 36,000 miles later I'm having more engine problems! They started at 2:30am on Hogmanay this year when the engine would not start. It's been generally a good starter so I probably didn't help matters through the quick key turn I'd habitually conditioned my hand to do. It would almost start but was very rough and then cut out. I checked the oil and topped it up and this helped. I also was much more intentional when turning the key and this also helped. Unfortunately a couple of weeks ago the misfire was back this time at about 1500 revs across a 200 - 300 band. It would only occur when the engine was cold for the first couple of accelerations and then it'd disappear. This happened for a few weeks. I took it to my local dealer in Bannockburn and they did a diagnostic. It came back showing no faults and the compression test also came back within Skoda limits. At this point I was considering a trade in and they encouraged that route or suggested using a diesel specialist.

Initially I was looking at a trade in but a few weeks later it was plugged into another diagnostic computer and this time it did show up four faults:

glow plug 2

glow plug 2

intermittent problem with injector circuit

intermittent misfire

Unfortunately, it was not booked into this specialist and it was 250 miles from home so I re-booked it into Bannockburn again for Monday this week. Last Thursday, on the way to an interview, it started to misfire badly continuously and would not stop. I pulled onto the hard shoulder and had the RAC recovery lorry take the car directly to the dealer early and one week on it is still there. So far they are trying to diagnose the problem and believe it lies with either the injector circuit or an injector.

I'll keep you posted....

Edited by Unlucky Octavia owner

Latest update from Newmarket Skoda regarding my engine problems...

The workshop manager confirmed that the injector to cylinder 2 had failed. He quoted the following costs for the part depending on what option I chose:

New injector (including 2 yr warranty) - £607.66 plus VAT

Service Exchange injector - £460.95 plus VAT

Recondition own injector - £175 plus VAT

All I can say is "NO WONDER VWAG HAVE DITCHED THE PD ENGINES AND SWITCHED TO COMMON RAIL!!!!"

Hardly cheap is it. Yes, those are the prices for just one injector. Given that Injector 3 was replaced about 36,000 miles ago and the rest have done 109,000 miles this is what I've decided: to recondition injectors 1,2 and 4 only. If they have any doubts that injector 2 can be effectively reconditioned then I'll have them replace that one with a new one. The reason I've decided to recondition the other 2 is the labour cost. The engine is already stripped. If either one was to fail in the near future the labour is £200 plus VAT to replace it. I'd rather have them reconditioned now while the engine is stripped then risk not doing so and pay more for labour in the long run.

Hopefully these measures will fix my engine.

By the way, there was a fault on cylinders 2 and 3 with the glow plugs. Thinking of getting these done too.

Any thoughts. Would appreciate any tips/advice....

I feel your pain - my car has had a replacement gearbox, replacement engine and a brand new turbo and now the radiator fans won't stop!

VW Build quality, eh??

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