Hello chaps,

i have late 1998 skoda ocatavia 1U model, and been trying to match key to my imobiliser but it just doesnt happen. My key blade is correct but not sure about litlle transponder?

Do they have T5 or T6 transponders inside?

I have tryed to match my key with both transponders but it just doesnt matches, and if it does last for few seconds and then imobiliser kiks in again????

If i read faults in the engine control unit and dash it says KEY SIGNAL LOW and INCORRECT KEY CODING.

KNOWING MY skc PIN NUMBER, DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO DISABLE IMMOBILISER COMPLETELLY??

Kind regards

The low key signal is likely to be the problem. I've come across this problem a few times on the early Octavia, the immobiliser light is on and the car won't start. In every case it has been cured by replacing the twisted wires from the read coil on the barrel to the back of the dash panel. The loom should be available from Skoda for less than £10.

If you have the SKC, there is a way of entering it using the dash panel buttons, but it will only over ride the immobiliser for around 30 to 45 minutes.

Thanks fordfan, as always!

Yes it is a difficoult one, i have replaced key coil reader today but problem still present.

I have also bought second hand dash panel, extracted pin number and tryed to metch key but still the same.

You are saying the wires from dash panel to coil reader could be faulty?, ok i understand where you come from, but if one of these two wires were broken fully/partailly there would be fault recorded sayin open circuit? Am i correct?

Any further suggestions??

ps

how do you disable imobiliser using the dash panel buttons?

kind regards

For some reason the wires just go wrong, they dont break, they just do not transmit the key signal sufficiently and the fault shown is a low key signal.

The emergency start procedure is a follows:

EMERGENCY START

1. Switch IGNITION ON and turn the clock set button to the right and at

the same time press and hold the trip reset button for 1 second.

2. “0000” appears on the display, press the trip button to input the first

digit of the pin code. Turn the clock set button to the right to move to

the next digit. Repeat for all 4 digits.

3. Then with the correct pin code entered turn the clock set button to

the right and press the trip reset button for 1 second.

4. The Immobiliser light will stay on, and the car can run for 45 minutes

Thanks for this info fordfan, GREATELY APPRECIATED !

Just a quick update.

I have removed those two twisted wires (black and green) and i have replaced both wires to equivalent same wire diameter. I have also soldered neatelly each wire in the metal connector that are positioned in block connector.

I have tryed matching again but still cannot mach key. This time if i start engine, engine will run for approximatelly 10 seconds and then gradually die ( just like there is not enough fuel in petrol tank) and imobiliser light starts flashing.

If i check dti in dash panel it comes with following codes:

01177

01176

01174

I have also noticed, if i go to 17dash panel, 08 measure value block, chanel i belive 22 or 23, field number 3, dash panel doesnt see key at all !!!!

I have already fitted new-second coil reader, i have also fitted new dash board but still cannot match the keys?

Any further help-suggestion greatelly appreciated?

Does this mean there could be an issue with my engine ECU?

It could be an ECU problem, but I'll feel happier if you replaced the read coil loom with the correct VW part. The part number is 1U0971809 and it will be around 1% of the cost of a new ecu.

As you've changed these wires, the problem symptoms have changed, which suggests to me that it may be the problem. The immobiliser works by not letting the fuel supply switch on.

hello again,

Thanks for your precious time fordfan, i really do owe you drink !

I will purchase this loom first thing in the morning, but now an important update !!!!!!!

I have tryed an emergency PIN code imput, the imobiliser light kept flashing but i still couldnt start the engine. When i originally mach the key i was able to start engine but imobiliser light kept flashing. Couple of days later after i originally tryed to match keys i noticed that air mass sensor connector was disconnected of the air mass, so i decided to put plug beck on without thinking too much about it. Then i tryed to match keys again as imobiliser light kept flashing and didnt get any joy.

Tonight, ive DISCOVERED IF I LEAVE AIR MASS SENSOR CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED, AND MACH KEY, IMOBILISER LIGHT WILL KEEP FLASHING AND I CAN START CAR AND CAR WILL RUN, IF I STOP AND START ENGINE AGAIN ON NUMBER OF OCCASIONS ENGINE WILL RUN. NOW IF I TURN ENGINE OFF FOR 10 MINUTES AND TRY TO START ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT START, UNLESS I MATCH KEYS AGAIN AND LEAVE AIR MASS CONNECTOR DISCONECTED!!

WHILE CAR IS RUNNING, IVE PLUGED AIR MASS SENSOR CONNECTOR BACK ON AND ENGINE DIED STRAIGHT AWAY ????

I will replace this coil reader wires and see what happens.

Any further suggestions fordfan?

Kind regards

Hello again

im just preparing myself for worst, so does anyone know what is the diffrence in betwee these two Engine ECU's?

06A 906 018 DJ

and

06A 906 018 c

Regards

hello

I have purchased imobiliser coil reader loom and it should arrive tommorow.

I will install loom and try to mach key.

Will let you know how i get on.

Thanks

Fingers crossed.

thanks fordfan,

picking up loom after work and will try later on to match key. Will inform you straight away.

does anyone know the diffrence in between these two ecu's?

06A 906 018 DJ

and

06A 906 018 c

Kind regards

Hello Fordman

I have replaced coil reader loom and i am still unable to code/match the key. If i read faults in adress 17 dash panel same faults have come back:

Key signal low

Incorect key coding

I HAVE DISCOVERED IF I LEAVE AIR MASS SENSOR CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED, AND MACH KEY, IMOBILISER LIGHT WILL KEEP FLASHING AND I CAN START CAR AND CAR WILL RUN, IF I STOP AND START ENGINE AGAIN ON NUMBER OF OCCASIONS ENGINE WILL RUN.

NOW IF I TURN ENGINE OFF FOR 10 MINUTES AND TRY TO START ENGINE, ENGINE WILL NOT START, UNLESS I MATCH KEYS AGAIN AND LEAVE AIR MASS CONNECTOR DISCONECTED!!

WHILE CAR WAS RUNNING, I HAVE PLUGED AIR MASS SENSOR CONNECTOR BACK ON AND ENGINE DIED STRAIGHT AWAY ????

Kind regards

p.s any further suggestions

Can anyone suggest what to do next?

thanks

The only link between the immobiliser and MAF that I can think of is the engine control unit. You could have a look ai its connections and the engine wiring loom for signs of corrosion and water ingress. It might be an idea to erase the learned values in the engine ECU, adaptation 10 then channel 00.

Hi fordfan,

I have done this already, same faults keep comming back.

dash panal faults

Key signal low

Incorect key coding

Engine faults

Engine stopped by imobiliser

I will go through earth points hopefully tommorow and will check continuity between mass plug and ecu. I will also check for short in between them.

Thanks for your time and effort in trying ho help me out.

All your comments greatly appreciated

Kind regards

Hello again,

I have replaced engine ECU, with same part number, have coded ECU before i tryed to match keys but still cannot mach keys. If i go in 17 dash panel, 08 masure values, chanel 22, field 3 key still cannot be seen.

Do this 98 skoda octavia use T5 or T6 transponder inside key???

Regards

Hello again,

it appears that i have been supplyed with wrong key from my local locksmith and that is why i cannot match key. According to locksmith i should have T5 carbon type and according to Hickleys in Tauton i should have AKTP1 glass type transponder inside key. If my skoda should have T5 then how come i spent lot of money replacing new dash, coil reader, new loom and new ECU and still unable to match key?

Still nothing confirmed, but will keep you all updated with progress.

If anyone has any suggestions plese let us know.

Kind regards

i was going to suggest trying a different chip.

the airflow fault is seperate problem

Thanks guys,

im just sorting this transponder issue now, i going to give Hickleys in Tauton call now to re confirm this.

Will keep you updated, if anyone has any suggestions please let us know.

Regards

ok everyone,

spoke to Hickleys on the phone and they have confirmed that AKTP1 is glass transponder T5 type id 13 and this is what i should have been given from my locksmith in the first place. I have ordered two transponders and they will arrive tommorow. Once i receive them, i will try to match the keys and will let you know.

Thanks for all your input

Regards

Hello guys,

problem solved. My new transponders have arrived today, and i went co match the key and guess what?????

Key matched on first attempt, also if i go in 17, measure value block 22, field 3 key is now being seen by imobiliser! so happy now.

The right transponder was AKTP1 T5 glass one-id 13 and not the T5 carbon one-id 33. My locksmith was terribly wrong and costed me £180 for no reason what so ever.

I will call him in the morning and tell him the outcome. What a proffesional?

many thanks to all of you for all your inputs to solve this issue. Greatfully appreciated all your comments.

Kind regards

Thanks for the feedback, I'm pleased to hear that you got it sorted.

No problem,

Pleasure to thank you, not once but 100 times for yor persisstance in order to get this issue solved

Kind regards