From what I have heard clutches.

Depends how you drive. I had a stage 1 remap at 15000km, stage 2 map at 85000km. Now at 90,000km on the original clutch.

Original brake pads and discs all round too! I find it's best not to use the brakes really

As for the remap - do it! I can vouch for Shark Performance's maps and customer service.

whats a TIP ? ive got a air filter which is in the bumper so its got cold air feed all the time . i did upgrade to the 007p but didnt rate it and went back to the standard one TOO which i found it to be better in my honest opion

whats a TIP ? ive got a air filter which is in the bumper so its got cold air feed all the time . i did upgrade to the 007p but didnt rate it and went back to the standard one TOO which i found it to be better in my honest opion

What was the issue with the 007p if you don't mind me askin?

whats a TIP ? ive got a air filter which is in the bumper so its got cold air feed all the time . i did upgrade to the 007p but didnt rate it and went back to the standard one TOO which i found it to be better in my honest opion

TIP = turbo intake pipe - the one from the MAF to the turbo

What was the issue with the 007p if you don't mind me askin?

when i had the 17705 code it was dumping when it shouldnt be so going throught the stages of sorting it out id thought ill try the OME one . it felt torquer then the 007p but didnt cure the code .

just ad the car re-maped today and WOW ! its kick out 1 bar of boost and cost £180 . spins to easyer in 1st and when it gets to 2500-3000rpm it puts you back in the seat ! very happy at this moment in time !

when i had the 17705 code it was dumping when it shouldnt be so going throught the stages of sorting it out id thought ill try the OME one . it felt torquer then the 007p but didnt cure the code .

just ad the car re-maped today and WOW ! its kick out 1 bar of boost and cost £180 . spins to easyer in 1st and when it gets to 2500-3000rpm it puts you back in the seat ! very happy at this moment in time !

wat map 1 or 2 ....where did you get that done....good price i guess

wat map 1 or 2 ....where did you get that done....good price i guess

got it done in doncaster , someone my dad knows . just a re-map so in guessing one

cant wait to get mine mapped......my founds are running low :'(

cant wait to get mine mapped......my founds are running low :'(

Did you eventually sell your Spider alloys? The new ones look pretty good in the pic.

yea buddy got 200 for them....thanks

Having done some logs on a mates remapped VRS I would say a front mount intercooler is a must if you want to always get close to the 210bhp the remappers say you'll get.

We did three runs back to back, on the first run it did something like 213. Then the intake air temps went up and on the second run it went down to close to 200, then on the third run down to 193, which is only a bit more than mine (mine has no remap).

The Seat Leon Cupra R and Audi S3 both have twin SMICs to be able to reliably produce their 224/225bhp time after time, I just don't think the standard Octy VRS SMIC is up to cooling the boost when the pressure is that much more than standard (15+ psi with a remap compared to 10 psi standard)

Edited 21 February, 201016 yr by chicken_eyebrow

Having done some logs on a mates remapped VRS I would say a front mount intercooler is a must if you want to always get close to the 210bhp the remappers say you'll get.

We did three runs back to back, on the first run it did something like 213. Then the intake air temps went up and on the second run it went down to close to 200, then on the third run down to 193, which is only a bit more than mine (mine has no remap).

The Seat Leon Cupra R and Audi S3 both have twin SMICs to be able to reliably produce their 224/225bhp time after time, I just don't think the standard Octy VRS SMIC is up to cooling the boost when the pressure is that much more than standard (15+ psi with a remap compared to 10 psi standard)

Was this on a rolling road? If so, then just possibly you were getting way more heat soak than you would in on-road driving?

From what I have heard clutches.

Still on original Clutch after 126,000 miles.

Been running various maps on car over the past few years.

1. Postal Remap - very aggresive on fueling and started to fail MOT's good power though ran 219 BHP

2. REVO stage 1 - not so aggresive map, very smooth power. ran 210 BHP. with FMIC, CAI kit and Turbo back exhaust plus Forge DV0007p with green spring

3. REVO stage 2 - more aggresive than stage 1 , same mods as above but with 4 BAR FPR and Forge DV yellow spring. Excellent power delivery and great torque. (see latest results on JKM RR day 20th Feb 2010, when posted ) Ran 225 BHP with 260lbs torque. Very happy and very reliable.

agree with needing FMIC though, with that I had 3 RR runs all around the same BHP mark.

Edited 22 February, 201016 yr by Bowders1

Was this on a rolling road? If so, then just possibly you were getting way more heat soak than you would in on-road driving?

It was done with a Liquid Gauge and a lot of empty road :yes: We pulled the plastic grille insert in front of the I/C out just to try and improve the cooling but didn't make a bit of difference.

My standard one did three back to back runs on a fixed rolling road and did 188/189/187 so for stock power levels the stock I/C does a decent job of cooling

It was done with a Liquid Gauge and a lot of empty road :yes: We pulled the plastic grille insert in front of the I/C out just to try and improve the cooling but didn't make a bit of difference.

My standard one did three back to back runs on a fixed rolling road and did 188/189/187 so for stock power levels the stock I/C does a decent job of cooling

Noted. Were you aware that the Audis have a grille that lets hot air from the intercooler out into the RHF wheelarch?

Noted. Were you aware that the Audis have a grille that lets hot air from the intercooler out into the RHF wheelarch?

I originally modded my arch with a TT liner to allow warm air from the intercooler to escape. worked ok with the Stage 1 Remap.

There are some nice aftermarket intercoolers out there now to replace the standard one and keep original position that claim to offer better lower temps., but not sure of there effectiveness stuck behind the bumper.

Edited 22 February, 201016 yr by Bowders1

I've got the TT wheelarch fitted to mine on the RH wheel arch. Do they have venting on the other arch for the models with twin intercoolers (S3 and 225 TT)? FMIC still seems to be best solution for anything more than standard power but is still quite expensive :(

is it worth changing the N75 valve ? some times it doesnt go up to the re-map boost BUT it did the same before the re-map . i thinking its not holding the boost .

is it worth changing the N75 valve ? some times it doesnt go up to the re-map boost BUT it did the same before the re-map . i thinking its not holding the boost .

Are you sure it is not linked to your standard DV you re fitted. Maybe the problem was not the forge DV after all?

I would be inclined to fit the forge DV with a remap.

I did change my N75 valve for a ECS race one as I had flutuation in holding boost so can not rule that one out too.