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Central Locking Self-Locking


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Hi folks, hope you can help out with a problem that has just materialised with the central locking on my 03 Octavia Elegance TDI. Symptoms are as follows:

The car will suddenly lock itself (whether in use or stood dormant, ignition off et al) without any human intervention whatsoever. When it does this, generally any attempt to unlock it results in the car immediately re-locking itself. I can eventually get it to stay unlocked for a few minutes, but eventually, it just locks itself again.

When already locked and red LED on door is flashing, all of a sudden (again without any deliberate external trigger) it will occassionally start to go through a cycle of repeatedly coming out of Safe locked mode (i.e. locked but red LED off, so not deadlocked), then a number of seconds later going back into Safe locked mode (i.e. red LED flashing again, so re-deadlocked).

if I am quick enough to open the driver's door when attempting to unlock the car, then keep the (driver's) door open, the self-triggering locking stops completely for as long as the door is open. However, if I try the same trick with any other door, the central locking still re-locks itself.

Obviously, keeping the driver's door open all the time is not the answer. I have taken the central locking fuse out now, but interestingly the boot lock motor still has a tendency to self-lock, albeit after anything up to a couple of minutes. Acc to the (not very good) schematic diagram in the workshop manual (i.e. the one produced by a well-known publisher that will remain nameless!), the boot lock motor appears to be powered direct from the Convenience Unit, separate to the rest of the central locking system. Does this all suggest the problem lies in/with the Convenience Unit? If so, where exactly is the damn thing and do they suffer any specific common ailments (i.e. water ingress, dry joints that can be easily resoldered, etc.)?

Incidentally, car battery voltage is all fine (checked that already), so it's all really annoying. However, having now taken the central locking fuse out, at least I can still safely lock (and therefore use) the car, albeit by use of 'keep-fit' door-locking techniques!

If anybody reading this can shed any light on this, please advise - all input gratefully received.

Many thanks,

Lampman

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These problems are usually associated with the driver's door wiring loom, or the microswitches in the driver's door lock.

You don't mention it, but does the central locking behave more normally if key-locked rather than using the plip?

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These problems are usually associated with the driver's door wiring loom, or the microswitches in the driver's door lock.

You don't mention it, but does the central locking behave more normally if key-locked rather than using the plip?

Thanks for the tips. Ref operation with the key, forgot to mention that it makes no difference; the system behaves exactly the same regardless of whether 'plip' locked or key-locked.

Rgds,

Lampman.

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also is it an estate? could be the water in the nsr wiring loom problem too.

Yes, it is an estate. Please can you elaborate on "the nsr wiring loom problem" you mention. i.e. exactly which loom are you referring to and where does is run from/through/to? Is this "nsr wiring loom problem" a common one?

Many thanks,

Lampman

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Thanks mate. Given that you appear to know exactly which loom Felicia16v is talking about, would I be right in suspecting "the nsr wiring loom problem" to be a common one then?

Will take a look tomorrow (am out tonight).

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Could be screenwash leaking onto the wiring loom in the boot, which I think is what Felicia16v is refering too, but as the doors remain unlocked when the drivers door is open, my money would be on a faulty micro switch in the drivers door lock.

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I've just had this problem myself but with all the doors locking and unlocking when they wanted. Be warned that taking the fuse makes no difference as the ccm unit seems to over ride this. It cost me lots of time and money having the computer linked up, stripping doors and locks and fitting a ccm just to find out that the problem is in the boot where felica16v stated. If you remove the wheel arch carpet you will find a black box and three connector blocks. The wash wipe pipe has a crude connection part directly over the box which comes apart and gives your electrics a nice wash :swear: . Just remove the 2 10mms and leave on your rad over night and all should be fine. Give the other connectors a blast of WD40to remover any water.

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Good news! All those that mentioned the nsr wiring loom and problems caused by the washer fluid pipe leaking (giving everything in the area a "good wash") were smack-bang-on the money! :thumbup:

I took a look in the bowels of the CD changer compartment this morning to find it swimming in washer fluid. Result: the block of 3 multi-pin connectors were saturated and had clearly been suffering for a while. The worst one of the 3 was the four-pin (dirty yellow) one for the tailgate lock switch and motor. In fact, one of the wires (the black/blue one) was so bad, it fell off its terminal.

A good clean-up, a spray with contact treament oil and a by-pass wire for the black/blue wire later and normal service has been fully restored in the central locking - no gremlins whatsoever. I've been using the car all day since sorting the problem this morning and it has behaved impeccably, so I can rest easy now.

As for the root cause - i.e. the washer fluid leak - that was due to the join in the pipe having popped apart, but not quite parted fully. Regardless, it was enough to cause it to leak. A quick clean up, a dab of vaseline and a quick push back together (with a positive click) and that is also now water-tight once again.

So, all sorted, and not a penny spent!!! To say I'm chuffed would be an understatement :rofl:

Thanks again for all your help guys - much appreciated. Hope my findings help others with similar problems.

Best rgds,

Lampman

Edited by Lampman
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Brilliant, my 03 Octavia 4x4 Estate started showing very similar symptoms just 4 days ago. My central locking would immediately relock as soon as I unlocked either with key or plip. I had to open the door as soon as I unlocked or it would have locked agin before I opened the door. No randomness for me. I had worked out it was related to the boot door by taking the cover off and unplugging the open door sensor, then when the back door was open I could unlock the central locking and it wouldn't relock. I was assuming the back door sensor was faulty and came online to look for a replacement when I decided to do a quick search for anyone with a similar issue. Found this thread within minutes. Just went and checked and the washer pipe had disconnected and the electrics were awash with washer fluid. Took most of the water out with a cloth then 20 mins with a hair dryer a quick spray with WD40 and my central locking is back to normal.

Chuffed, thanks.

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Glad to be of help.

The timing of your problem, along with mine and other cases I've seen mentioned recently, are uncannily in sync. The question is what is causing the washer pipework to pop apart in the first place? My suspicion is that the recent cold weather may have caused the pipework to contract to such a degree that it lost a couple of mm of length, became taught and the weakest point (i.e. the join in the pipework) popped under strain.

When putting mine back together, I have made sure the pipework is not being strained, so hopefully it won't pop apart again. Time will no doubt tell.

Rgds.

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Most likely cause is that the screenwash has frozen at the rear washer and then when you have tried to wash the rear window, the pipe has been blocked and the pressure pops the joint in the hose apart.

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Most likely cause is that the screenwash has frozen at the rear washer and then when you have tried to wash the rear window, the pipe has been blocked and the pressure pops the joint in the hose apart.

I see your point, but I can rule that one out myself, as I always use anti-freezing washer fluid (Decasol Excel), increasing the concentration in Winter months as a matter of course. Although it's been cold lately, I'm confident that It hasn't been cold enough to freeze that.

I did see when I was fixing my problem yesterday that even though it was only chilly, the pipework had very little flexibility in it, so could have popped apart through shrinkage(?). At the end of the day, who knows? I'll certainly be keeping a good nose on me when I use the car; any sniff of washer fluid in the car and I'll be going straight to the CD changer compartment before it wreaks havock with my central locking again.

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I see your point, but I can rule that one out myself, as I always use anti-freezing washer fluid (Decasol Excel), increasing the concentration in Winter months as a matter of course. Although it's been cold lately, I'm confident that It hasn't been cold enough to freeze that.

I'm not so confident; part-way through one recent trip I stopped to top-up screenwash, and discovered a 50/50 VAG & water mix fronzen on the foglights, Same mix had also frozen on the wiper blades and arms! :o

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I'm not so confident; part-way through one recent trip I stopped to top-up screenwash, and discovered a 50/50 VAG & water mix fronzen on the foglights, Same mix had also frozen on the wiper blades and arms! :o

I have had central locking problems with my tdi Octy estate and checked as suggested and in CD compartment the screenwasher pipe had come loose and whole area wet. Managed to dry it out as suggested and reconnect pipe and used the hairdryer and WD40 and the next day the central locking worked via the key fob, mind you only for the day as no longer working but much better than before. Hoping that after a few more days and another hairdryer session that the central locking starts working and responding to the key fobs!! Thanks for the advice!!!!

Lastly can anyone tell me how to stop the windows from winding down as a pain to close with the key whilst fobs not working? I have to get out of the car and open the passenger door and press the door locks button on the drivers door and only way to leave the car locked.

Edited by dty
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just joined this site as I have been looking for an answer to this problem for over a month now. Car constantly relocks itself. Has been to the local mech x2 but he has not been able to find any answer. It is booked into the skoda dealership this coming monday and I have not been looking forward to the bill! Just popped out to have a look and sure enough ++ washer fluid in and around the base of the cd player. I can't see the break in the hose but will have a better look tomorrow. I suspect that the washer mix that that was in there when it all started on news year day - happy new year :-) - was an autumn mix of less than 50/50 and froze. I'll let you know if a clean up solves the problem!

Cheers Guys

Think I will cancel monday with the dealership.

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I'm not so confident; part-way through one recent trip I stopped to top-up screenwash, and discovered a 50/50 VAG & water mix fronzen on the foglights, Same mix had also frozen on the wiper blades and arms! :o

I always use a strong screenwash solution in freezing conditions (you can smell it when you wash the screen) but yesterday the screen wash froze on the front screen and must be mostly water. The screenwash doesn't smell any more either

The estate has a bigger wash bottle if it has headlamp washers and so lasts many months before needing a refill. My guess is that the solution in the bottle stratifies - stronger at the top and almost water at the water. I would have thought all that movement of the car would have mixed it sufficiently.

Off now to see if any of my washer hose connections have popped as it is -3°C ouitside.

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I always use a strong screenwash solution in freezing conditions (you can smell it when you wash the screen) but yesterday the screen wash froze on the front screen and must be mostly water. The screenwash doesn't smell any more either

The estate has a bigger wash bottle if it has headlamp washers and so lasts many months before needing a refill. My guess is that the solution in the bottle stratifies - stronger at the top and almost water at the water. I would have thought all that movement of the car would have mixed it sufficiently.

Off now to see if any of my washer hose connections have popped as it is -3°C ouitside.

Even then, I could still smell it, and the frozen stuff was blueish, so clearly still had dye in it! Also, the screenwash was refilled as part of the service in mid-October, so less than 3 months before the incident mentioned.

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  • 10 months later...

Could be screenwash leaking onto the wiring loom in the boot, which I think is what Felicia16v is refering too, but as the doors remain unlocked when the drivers door is open, my money would be on a faulty micro switch in the drivers door lock.

Have exact same problem last night. Kept unlock/lock cycle all night long! Took it for a spin in the early hours because I was worried about the battery drain. Anyway, it hasn't misbehaved once since. I'll have a look at the rear washer tomorrow. I've only had the Ocky 2 weeks ('02) and I'm really pleased with it but I've noticed that there is no central locking fuse (6) in place. Any ideas why this should be?

This is a really good site! Plenty of community feel and good will - somewhat of a rarity these days!

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I'm afraid to say that most of the screen wash stuff is pretty poor.

Having on more than one occasion in the last year had to defrost the entire washer bottle of a car and the lines even when on 50/50 or stronger mix I now simply put it in neat when the weather is like this.

A thought on the hose popping off, you may think that your lines are fluid, but could a small bung of frozen fluid at the end be enough to cause a packup that blows the line, but the pressure from the pump is enough to force that bung out at the last minute? Net result the ice goes and the pipe pops at the same time.

Tom

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I have a similar problem.. when i unlock the car all doors will open as normal, however when I pull away and the doors autolock the NSR unlocks. If i again go over the 10mph level it autolocks again and unlocks... this happens for 10 or so mins after which it stays locked. It is almost as though it needs the car interior to be warm??

Is this typical of the washer problem?

It is a 2001 estate 4x4

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  • 4 years later...

Hi, I'm having this same problem on a 2003 Octavia 1.9 TDI Ambiente Hatchback. Does this solution only solve the problem on a Estate or will it work for the hatchback?

Are there any other solutions for the hatchback?

I'd be very grateful for any insight.

Thanks

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I think the routing of the rear washer pipe is different on the hatch, but it's a 5 minute job to look behind the trim which is held by a couple of twist locks because that's where the CD stacker lives on all models with a stacker and a radio-cassette head, and also the access for the rear light bulbs.

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