Is the hose plugged in ok to the back of the gauge? Mate of mine used to have a boost gauge in his Mk1 Fiesta that never worked coz the hose kept slipping off, the connector for it wasn't big enough to hold it on with a cable tie or anything

Is the hose plugged in ok to the back of the gauge? Mate of mine used to have a boost gauge in his Mk1 Fiesta that never worked coz the hose kept slipping off, the connector for it wasn't big enough to hold it on with a cable tie or anything

the hose on mine dnt go into the back of the gauge on my 1 u connect the hose upto where the t piece goes the hose comes off a lil black sender thing if u get wat i mean then u connect a wire from the gauge to the sender thing hope u can help

Ah right, in that case maybe the sender unit is broken, or the wire between the sender and the gauge is broken or not connected properly.

Ah right, in that case maybe the sender unit is broken, or the wire between the sender and the gauge is broken or not connected properly.

ok thanks i jus want the god dam thing working lol i wil try it all later

ok thanks i jus want the god dam thing working lol i wil try it all later

if i cnt find the problem is any1 close by willing to come and help me

If you have a sender unit doesn't it have to be powered all the time?

If so you would be better using the red/black.

I'm using the ash tray light wiring to power my gauge dial. The bulb blew in the ash tray anyway, and I didn't miss it, so redirected the wiring. Obviously only lights up when the lights are turned on, which is what you want really.

Pretty sure most people with 1.8T's use a mechanical gauge. Yours is electrical, so it will need constant power.

It's probably just wired up incorrectly.

I'm using the ash tray light wiring to power my gauge dial. The bulb blew in the ash tray anyway, and I didn't miss it, so redirected the wiring. Obviously only lights up when the lights are turned on, which is what you want really.

Pretty sure most people with 1.8T's use a mechanical gauge. Yours is electrical, so it will need constant power.

It's probably just wired up incorrectly.

how can i get it to have constant power? what soo that means i have to have it all even wen the car is turn off?

As Rob said, just hook it to the switched live in the headlight switch.

It sounds like the sender has to have power to it and then the gauge itself has to have switched power to it so the lights on the gauge are on when the dash lights are on.

I'd mount the sender at the back of the engine bay and connect it to a live wire from the fusebox and an earthing point so it is getting power (use an inline fuse in the live wire to be safe). Then feed the wire that carries the boost data from the sender through the bulkhead to the gauge and wire the gauge up to the lights in the way Rob and Bertee suggested.

Do you have a link to the gauge on ebay or wherever it came from?

Bit too far for me to come to have a look unfortunately, I am down your way every now and again fishing at Sandwich though

Edited 9 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

On ebay there's a 3 gauge holder that replaces your cubby hole under the stereo

hi guys thanks 4 all ur help today i finished work at 6 went home have my tea then had a play around with the boost gauge and it turned out to be a broken wirer lol i have now sorted it and i have a boost gauge ow yes thanks 4 all your help guys i hope to see u all at a meet 1 time if its ok to turn up

Cool, glad you got it sorted out

I don't get the point of putting a boost gauge in the cubby hole, when you need to be looking at it you shouldn't be taking your eyes totally off the road

i hope to see u all at a meet 1 time if its ok to turn up

There's a South East meet every month at Maidstone, I guess thats a bit of a way to come though?

I don't get the point of putting a boost gauge in the cubby hole, when you need to be looking at it you shouldn't be taking your eyes totally off the road

I don't get the point of putting it in the vent either, i like the nice cold air to keep me cool :p

Best place would be a piller pod but no one's making them for the octy

There's a South East meet every month at Maidstone, I guess thats a bit of a way to come though?

cool no maidstone is not to bad 4 me really soo il be coming up there wen theres a meet on is it at the start of every month or at the end ?

cool no maidstone is not to bad 4 me really soo il be coming up there wen theres a meet on is it at the start of every month or at the end ?

Its usually the first Saturday of each month although the next one is 31st July

At the next meet we have a brand new Fabia VRS (1.4 petrol supercharged/turbocharged) to test drive

Details here:

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/166708-maidstone-meet-august-2010-31-july-see-announcement/

i made my own pillar pod

Yeah there's nothing wrong with tapping off the FPR line. No issues arise from doing this.

You can't beat the instantaneous accuracy of a mechanical pressure guage.

Hi Mate

Sorry for the very, very late reply.

The FPR on a 1.8t is situated close to the inlet manifold and has a short, small dia feed pipe from the inlet manifold that does not feed/supply any other engine component or sensor.

The reason for this is quite deliberate and important....... the shorter the FPR feed pipe the more accurately and quickly the FPR can respond to the inlet manifold pressure/depression and adjust the fueling accordingly.

What people dont seem to appreciate is that by connecting a "T" peice into the FPR feed pipe and running a lenght of pipe (say 3 meters long) into the car to supply the boost gauge, has the same effect as extending the the FPR feed pipe by 3 meters.

It will cause a delay in the response and reaction time of the FPR and have an adverse effect on fuelling.

I know the adverse effects will be small, but the fact that people fit boost gauges to their cars in the first place sort of implies they care about its performance so why not connect it correctly..... and not mess up the fuelling just cos the FPR pipe is easy to get to ???

HTH

Bill.

Hi Mate

Sorry for the very, very late reply.

The FPR on a 1.8t is situated close to the inlet manifold and has a short, small dia feed pipe from the inlet manifold that does not feed/supply any other engine component or sensor.

The reason for this is quite deliberate and important....... the shorter the FPR feed pipe the more accurately and quickly the FPR can respond to the inlet manifold pressure/depression and adjust the fueling accordingly.

What people dont seem to appreciate is that by connecting a "T" peice into the FPR feed pipe and running a lenght of pipe (say 3 meters long) into the car to supply the boost gauge, has the same effect as extending the the FPR feed pipe by 3 meters.

It will cause a delay in the response and reaction time of the FPR and have an adverse effect on fuelling.

I know the adverse effects will be small, but the fact that people fit boost gauges to their cars in the first place sort of implies they care about its performance so why not connect it correctly..... and not mess up the fuelling just cos the FPR pipe is easy to get to ???

HTH

Bill.

Could you suggest a better place to connect to??

Could you suggest a better place to connect to??

Hi Oggy

If I was to fit (just) a mechanical boost gauge my first choice would be to drill and tap the inlet manifold.

Second choice, I'd maybe consider taking a feed from between the inlet manifold and the N249 valve.

Two definate no no's would be the brake servo and FPR feed pipes.

On my own car I plan to relocate the AIT sensor from the inlet manifold to upstream of the TB to elimminate heat soak from the manifold to the AIT sensor, and at the same time will prob make an adaptor to fit into the redundant hole left in the manifold and run a pipe from it to supply a mechanical boost gauge.

HTH

Bill.

PS. getting a bit quicker with the replies

So in theory for those that have by-passed the n249 and have spare outlets on the inlet manifold ie the 2 near the dipstick one of those could be used? While the other would be used for the brake servo to further tidy the engine bay?. my dump valve is already fed straight off the manifold from the outlet next to the fpr outlet.

mine works fine off the fpr so this is just a theoretical question

Edited 11 July, 201015 yr by sivrs

So in theory for those that have by-passed the n249 and have spare outlets on the inlet manifold ie the 2 near the dipstick one of those could be used? While the other would be used for the brake servo to further tidy the engine bay?. my dump valve is already fed straight off the manifold from the outlet next to the fpr outlet.

mine works fine off the fpr so this is just a theoretical question

Yes.....theoretically

Bill

how do i get my vent out to fit my vent pod?