how do i get my vent out to fit my vent pod?

Hi there if you are talking about the heater vent then it is a little tricky. It is held in with 4 metal clips at the back of the dash (2 at the top and 2 at the bottom). You can use a couple of small flat scredrivers to press down the plastic tabs that fit into the metal clips. You can't see them, so it is a little guess work to get it right and you should use a 3rd flat screwdriver to lever out the top of the vent, and then you may need to repeat on the bottom. Be careful not to damage the dash. I ended up removing the drivers side fuse box panel to get behind the vent and push it out.

The red/black wire is the switched live.

To remove the headlight switch, with the switch in the "OFF" position, push in on the switch until you feel some resistance, and then, with the switch still pushed in, turn it clockwise, and pull it out.

Got mine installed yesterday. Just trying to figure out what to do with the red and black wire coming out of the gauge. Which do i connect to which wire in that pic?

Would it be wise to disconnect the battery first before cutting any wires?

Thanks lads!

Edited 6 October, 201015 yr by Thescone

Got mine installed yesterday. Just trying to figure out what to do with the red and black wire coming out of the gauge. Which do i connect to which wire in that pic?

Would it be wise to disconnect the battery first before cutting any wires?

Thanks lads!

I connected mine to the dimmer switch to the grey and brown wires.

In your case it would be your red wire to the grey dimmer switch cable and you black wire to the brown dimmer switch cable.

You can also use the same colour wires in the main light switch two.

Cheers Bowders, just saw you post as i came in from the car. Took a chance and guessed as best I could from what was in the thread so far. If I had seen your pic this morning, I'd have been sorted!

For anyone else thats like me..........

Positive wire from boost gauge to "pos" and negative from gauge to "neg"

Thats how I wired it up so it turns on the backlight when I turn on the cars lights.

Maybe we should shorten down this thread to a pic guide? Seems like everything thats needed to do it is on it now?

I bought a liquid gauge. No pipes. Just plugs into the diagnostics port. Does all sorts of other readings, plus g force, fault readings, throttle body reset etc. Quite pricey, but I'm well impressed.

Does this show boost preasure then? I Borrowed a Vi Monitor from APS and it was pretty poor as it would only display things I didnt need to know!

What does the Liquid gauge display then?

Edited 7 October, 201015 yr by Pot Of jam

Does this show boost preasure then? I Borrowed a Vi Monitor from APS and it was pretty poor as it would only display things I didnt need to know!

im also looking at the liquid gauge

http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/product.php?xProd=10706

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/liquid-Octavia-boost-gauge-lambda-bhp-torque-oil-/220635604252?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335ee8251c

Edited 7 October, 201015 yr by sivrs

Had a quick look earlier to identify which wires to hook up my gauge to.

My gauge is a tinted jobbie that needs a permanent +12v (red) an earth (black) and also has an optional 'dim' (orange) which it says to hook up to the headlamp switched +12v. I'm not sure if I'm going to bother with the 'dim' but I guess I won't know whether I'll need it until I'm driving along at night with the gauge in my peripheral vision - it will be on a dash-mounted pod just to the left of the A-pillar. So I should probably wire that in anyway just so I have the choice.

The combination that seemed to work for basic live and earth on the headlamp switch was this:

Black/earth: Gray/White on lower left corner of block

Red/live: brown on lower right corner of block

Can anyone tell me if these will be ok?

Is the brown a permanent live? So the gauge would be lit up all the time? Doesn't sound right.

I used the red/black wire which is the switched live.

Is the brown a permanent live? So the gauge would be lit up all the time? Doesn't sound right.

I used the red/black wire which is the switched live.

You're right Rob, it was the red/black not the brown. In my defence it was late and I was tired

So is that combination ok to use? And what would I connect the orange/dim feed to, the idea being that it would dim the gauge backlight when you switch your headlights on?

Ok it's now wired in and all that seems ok.

I have to say, looking at the diameter and short length of the pipe to the FPR, I tend to agree with earlier comments that it doesn't seem the ideal place to run the vac pipe from. There's another pipe that leaves the manifold just in front of the pipe to the FPR. I can't see exactly where it runs to so has anyone used this pipe instead?

Piccy

Next prob is how to get the vac pipe through the bulkhead. I can't see anywhere obvious so the plan is to drill a 10mm hole and feed the hose through a grommet, unless anyone knows an existing location to route it through?

Lastly, the hose clips on the small 6 & 7mm hoses...the type that are crimped on..where can I get some of those? What's the proper name for em?

Any help appreciated

Under the scuttle panel at the bottom of the windscreen, passenger side, there is a grommet that runs by the side of the pollen filter. It comes out at the back of the glove box.

Some details here:

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/Amp%20Cable.htm

Here's a useful diagram showing where all the vac lines go:

Cheers Rob

The pipe I mentioned would look to be the one that runs to the N249. I'm not sure whether it would be a suitable place to hook into or not? I suppose as long as that line is at the same pressure as manifold (ie no restrictor inline or anything) then it should give an accurate reading however surely other people would be doing that already?

i ran mine threw the the main wiring grommet under the scuttle panel drivers side, just silicone sealed round it so no water could get in.

then along the bulk head and out where the dv sits, again with a grommet fitted so it would'nt rub on the metal.

my vac hose was fitted to the outlet you mention on the inlet but i've removed the n249 etc so it was spare, i dont see why it would cause an issue being tapped into there

Cheers Si, I think I'll go ahead and T it in there.

Just took a look on a few other 1.8T forums and there's a few peeps who T it into the vac feed to the DV. Although surely that's post-249 so not a true manifold reading?

my dump valve was T'd into that feed aswell as removing the N249 removes the original vac line for the dump valve. since removing my boost gauge i've just got the dump valve running off it

Have you noticed any difference to the way it drives, smoothness etc or the way the DV vents since you did the N249 bypass Si?

Ye, it's a lot smoother to drive, the dv seems to operate better now it's not being controlled aswell.

Can you get them to fit that little screen thing for you? Looks the nuts.

Fitting my three gauges today. The red/black wire on the lightswitch, if i wire my gauge upto that would they only come on when the lights are on?

My gauges need a constant 12v source AND a switched 12v source and i only want them to come on when the igitions on.

Hi guys, managed to get my gauge wired up today but I'm struggling to find a grommit to pass through to the inside. I haven't taken the scuttle off because as mush persuasion as I offer it won't pull off, I saw someone else put a photo up of one at the back of the engine bay, but all I have is a blank plastic plate?

where abouts did you bring the boost pipe for the gauge into the car? thats my only trouble now.

I've done a few of these now on Octys and Leons etc. I remove the scuttle panel and go through the grommet where the loom goes into the car on the drivers side. Very easy