How 2 Replace A CV Boot/Joint

[Supurbia]

Ok, no pics I'm afraid, but I can walk you through and help you avoid some of the brain teasers I encountered.

1 - Slacken the hub bolt, this will need a 14mm or in my case 17mm Hex

2 - Slacken wheel nuts and jack the car up

3 - Remove road wheel

4 - Remove speed sensor, it's behind the disc shield opp the caliper,remove pinchbolt, located at the top with two arms connected, if it's seized you need to heat it up or cut and drill it out, you won't move it otherwise

5 - Tap the arms out in an upwards fashion

6 - Remove hub bolt fully

7 - Pull the suspension enough to get the CVJ spline out of it

8 - Jack the bottom balljoint up to raise the suspension to allow the driveshaft to drop and clear it

9 - Remove old boot and clips, cut them off, leave the circlip that's on the shaft alone, it just stops the washers going up the shaft

10 - On the inner race of the CVJ using a soft hammer and something to butt up to the CVJ knock the CVJ off, it will seem tight, you have to drive the spline back over the clip

11 - Once it's off you will see the clip in a groove about 10mm onto the shaft, clean the shaft up

12 - Put new boot clips on shaft and push them out of the way for now, Turn the new boot inside out 75% and slide it on, mind the circlip

13 - Put thin dished washer on raised side facing the engine

14 - Put thrust washer on the shaft (thicker profiled one) with the sloped edge facing towards you, put new circlip on spline of shaft

Now here's the time saves 9 bit

15 - Use the thrust washer as a spring compress, slide it over the circlip ( end one on the spline) this holds the clip in for you

16 - Have the CVJ greased up fully, offer it to the spline and push quickly (may need a tap with hammer) until the CVJ fully engages on the shaft

17 - Put the CVJ spline through the hub, may need to lower the suspension for this, and hand screw the hub bolt in, doesn't have to be all the way in

18 - Pull the new boot onto the joint, use up any grease left over to fill the boot with

19 - Pull the larger boot clip onto the boot and making sure the boot is on properly clamp it up

20 - Using a screwdriver at the small end of the boot lift an edge from the shaft to release any trapped air

21 - If you're happy the boot isn't twisted at all do the small clamp up so the boot is now secure at both ends

22 - Reposition the control arms and plug them back into the pichbolt casing and put the pinchbolt back in and tighten

23 - Put speed sensor back in

24 - Put roadwheel back on and tighten nuts

25 - Do the hub bolt up until you feel it bite

26 - Put the car on the ground and torque the hub bolt to 140 pounds if you had the 17mm bolt, 85 if not iirc

27 - Recommendation is to now with a breaker bar tighten the bolt half a turn, mine was tight at 140 and I couldn't do it up anymore than that.

There you go, I hope this helps someone, I used a GSF kit at £27+vat, includes a new boot and CVJ, clips and grease, I got stuck getting the old one off until I finally lost it with it and gave it a good whack, I got stuck not having space because I didn't jack the suspension up until the end, I got stuck figuring out a way to get the new one over the circlip, hopefully my guide will save you the hassle.

Edited 28 January, 2010 by Supurbia

[berr0010]

Ok, no pics I'm afraid, but I can walk you through and help you avoid some of the brain teasers I encountered.

1 - Slacken the hub bolt, this will need a 14mm or in my case 17mm Hex

2 - Slacken wheel nuts and jack the car up

3 - Remove road wheel

4 - Remove speed sensor, it's behind the disc shield opp the caliper,remove pinchbolt, located at the top with two arms connected, if it's seized you need to heat it up or cut and drill it out, you won't move it otherwise

5 - Tap the arms out in an upwards fashion

6 - Remove hub bolt fully

7 - Pull the suspension enough to get the CVJ spline out of it

8 - Jack the bottom balljoint up to raise the suspension to allow the driveshaft to drop and clear it

9 - Remove old boot and clips, cut them off, leave the circlip that's on the shaft alone, it just stops the washers going up the shaft

10 - On the inner race of the CVJ using a soft hammer and something to butt up to the CVJ knock the CVJ off, it will seem tight, you have to drive the spline back over the clip

11 - Once it's off you will see the clip in a groove about 10mm onto the shaft, clean the shaft up

12 - Put new boot clips on shaft and push them out of the way for now, Turn the new boot inside out 75% and slide it on, mind the circlip

13 - Put thin dished washer on raised side facing the engine

14 - Put thrust washer on the shaft (thicker profiled one) with the sloped edge facing towards you, put new circlip on spline of shaft

Now here's the time saves 9 bit

15 - Use the thrust washer as a spring compress, slide it over the circlip ( end one on the spline) this holds the clip in for you

16 - Have the CVJ greased up fully, offer it to the spline and push quickly (may need a tap with hammer) until the CVJ fully engages on the shaft

17 - Put the CVJ spline through the hub, may need to lower the suspension for this, and hand screw the hub bolt in, doesn't have to be all the way in

18 - Pull the new boot onto the joint, use up any grease left over to fill the boot with

19 - Pull the larger boot clip onto the boot and making sure the boot is on properly clamp it up

20 - Using a screwdriver at the small end of the boot lift an edge from the shaft to release any trapped air

21 - If you're happy the boot isn't twisted at all do the small clamp up so the boot is now secure at both ends

22 - Reposition the control arms and plug them back into the pichbolt casing and put the pinchbolt back in and tighten

23 - Put speed sensor back in

24 - Put roadwheel back on and tighten nuts

25 - Do the hub bolt up until you feel it bite

26 - Put the car on the ground and torque the hub bolt to 140 pounds if you had the 17mm bolt, 85 if not iirc

27 - Recommendation is to now with a breaker bar tighten the bolt half a turn, mine was tight at 140 and I couldn't do it up anymore than that.

There you go, I hope this helps someone, I used a GSF kit at £27+vat, includes a new boot and CVJ, clips and grease, I got stuck getting the old one off until I finally lost it with it and gave it a good whack, I got stuck not having space because I didn't jack the suspension up until the end, I got stuck figuring out a way to get the new one over the circlip, hopefully my guide will save you the hassle.

Brillant guide and all problems you explained I had. GSF kit does come with a new hub bolt but I found longer and differenf fit so used old one.

[Stunts]

Right - following on from Supurbia's original post I'd like to embellish it slightly with pictures and some issues I came across

1 - Slacken the hub bolt, this will need a 14mm or in my case 17mm Hex (Mine also was a 17mm hex - 2005 Superb 1.9D Edition 100. I bought a set of sump plugs to get the specific tool as I didn't have time to order from the 'net.)

2 - Slacken wheel nuts and jack the car up

3 - Remove road wheel

4 - Remove speed sensor, it's behind the disc shield opp the caliper. It's on the fornt of the hub and is just a push fit. Mine came out with gentle tapping with a drift and hammer.

4a - Remove pinchbolt for the upper link arms, located at the top of the hub carrier, if it's seized you need to heat it up or cut and drill it out, you won't move it otherwise (note REMOVE pinch bolt! Don't leave it in situ and try to muller the arms out - it won't work. Look at the design of the arms! Learnt from bitter experience - I'll now need two new arms - they needed replacement soon anyway )

5 - Tap the arms out in an upwards fashion

5a - I found life easier if I removed the Steering arm - to the right of the upper link arms with a bellows gaiter on it. This gave a lot more movement with the hub carrier. To remove it, undo the pinch bolt and remove it, then undo the bolt on the top and tap the steering arm out.

6 - Remove hub bolt fully

7 - Pull the suspension enough to get the CVJ spline out of it

8 - Jack the bottom balljoint up to raise the suspension to allow the driveshaft to drop and clear it

9 - Remove old boot and clips, cut them off, leave the circlip that's on the shaft alone, it just stops the washers going up the shaft

10 - On the inner race of the CVJ using a soft hammer and something to butt up to the CVJ knock the CVJ off, it will seem tight, you have to drive the spline back over the clip

11 - Once it's off you will see the clip in a groove about 10mm onto the shaft, clean the shaft up

12 - Put new boot clips on shaft and push them out of the way for now, Turn the new boot inside out 75% and slide it on, mind the circlip

13 - Put thin dished washer on, raised side facing the engine

14 - Put thrust washer on the shaft (thicker profiled one) with the sloped edge facing towards you, put new circlip on spline of shaft

Now here's the time saves 9 bit

15 - Use the thrust washer as a spring compress, slide it over the circlip ( end one on the spline) this holds the clip in for you (worked perfectly - good tip!)

16 - Have the CVJ greased up fully, offer it to the spline and push quickly (may need a tap with hammer) until the CVJ fully engages on the shaft

17 - Put the CVJ spline through the hub, may need to lower the suspension for this, and hand screw the hub bolt in, doesn't have to be all the way in

18 - Pull the new boot onto the joint, use up any grease left over to fill the boot with

19 - Pull the larger boot clip onto the boot and making sure the boot is on properly clamp it up

20 - Using a screwdriver at the small end of the boot lift an edge from the shaft to release any trapped air

21 - If you're happy the boot isn't twisted at all do the small clamp up so the boot is now secure at both ends

22 - Reposition the control arms and plug them back into the pichbolt casing and put the pinchbolt back in and tighten - also do up the steering arm if you undid it.

23 - Put speed sensor back in

24 - Put roadwheel back on and tighten nuts

25 - Do the hub bolt up until you feel it bite

26 - Put the car on the ground and torque the hub bolt to 140 pounds if you had the 17mm bolt, 85 if not iirc

27 - Recommendation is to now with a breaker bar tighten the bolt half a turn, mine was tight at 140 and I couldn't do it up anymore than that.

[Tech1e]

Note that on the o/s the arms have to be disconnected, or you can do the bottom arm. On the n/s however there is enought room to undo the inner joint and lift it up enough to pull the shaft out of the hub. On non V6 engines anyhow.

[Browser]

Anyway my 1.8t engine cv joint boot change was easier. As I started to do the pinch bolt, I saw that it's quite impossible and I need to find out another way. Really easy way was, that I turned out the 3 bolts under hood for the front shock. Released the tie rod end and wiggled all the upper s*it out. Got the cv joint out and that's it. As I had a new bolt for cv joint laying around, I took the bolt, turned into cv joint and just turned it with impact wrench and it just popped off. That easy it was.

[rum4mo]

One thing to remember is, if you remove the TRE without making any measurements before hand, then you stand the risk of ending up with slightly "funny" feel to the steering due to the "S curve" setting now being wrong.

[Browser]

One thing to remember is, if you remove the TRE without making any measurements before hand, then you stand the risk of ending up with slightly "funny" feel to the steering due to the "S curve" setting now being wrong.

Sorry, TRE?

[Tech1e]

Track rod end