Have you any idea if I can found them from another car? Where I have to bought them? thank you very much dear... :-D

if you buy them you are looking at more than the value of the whole car. around £800 for a set in uk currency, not sure how much that is where you are though.

tbh, you might be better off thinking of a cheaper way to get more power out of it, try and find a set of carbs off a honda cbr600 motorcycle or something like that, then it's a simple bit of fabrication to make them fit. then you could use a distributor off a mk2 polo 1300 which means you could do away with the ecu and complicated wiring completely

I want it turbo :-( I am flawed and penniless :-D However many thanks TeflonTom you are always ready to help me :-D

There's no point in lightening or balancing the crank unless you're planning a very high-revving engine.

You can balance (make them all the same weight) the pistons and conrods yourself though.

For the pistons, all you do is weigh them all on the most accurate set of scales you can find (must read to +/-1g, or 0.1g would be preferable. Now gently file mass off the balance pads on the 3 heavy pistons to reduce the mass to match the lighest one.

The conrods are a bit more complex, and I'm sure there are better write-ups than I can do out there. The problem with conrods is that you need to make them weigh the same at each end of the rod, so you can't just weigh them, then file mass off the big end balance pads.

There's no point in balancing pistons to a tolerance of less than 1g.

Conrods are easily done end-on-end, there are lots of writeups on it, making a jig to weigh each end is simple.

Crank balance is not proportional to speed, you should get it checked regardless of the revving of the engine, plus it would be unlikely that anyone would build such an engine and leave the flywheel at standard weight, so it'll definitely need to be checked as an assembly anyway.

you WILL be hard pushed to find any volkswagen crankshaft that isn't balanced properly from the factory... they are very very well made and the tolerances on thier manufacturing is spot on too. the conrods are also very closely matched also, that's what the markings on the base of the big end caps are, they are sorted into weight groups at the factory, hence why you can only buy new conrods as a complete matched set for vw engines, i've got no idea about the skoda engines though...

in all seriousness though, i would urge you to rethink your turbo plans, if you are as you say 'penniless' you will find it painfully expensive to fit a turbo and make it run reliably to a normally aspirated engine, aside from the actual mechanical aspect of stronger pistons and rods, plus fitting the turbo on the engine, you will need to think of some way of fueling it all....

in a favorit i would definitely go for a multi-carb setup like something from a motorcycle adapted to fit, i've seen sets of keihlin carbs (4 seperate carbs in line) go for less than £50 on ebay

Skoda cranks are apparently well balanced - the three I've had done have all led to comments from the balancer that they've been spot on already, just the (lightened) flywheels needed balancing, but it's best to check anyway, IMO.

I also think Tom's right about the turbo. Carbs or an injection setup using megasquirt is a better bet, and if you go MS then you can spend hours tinkering with the fuelling for free - years ago I set a 1.3 Favorit up using a home made manifold and a set of GPz1100 throttle bodies, it ran really well (much better than the carb setup it was on before). Adding mapped ignition (same engine, years later) gave it a lot more bottom end torque, though.

Yeah, I'm a big fan of mapped injection engines, not because they make more peak power than Kettering arc and the right carb setup will for a given short engine, head and cam, but because they make more power everywhere else, and have better drivability.

Firstly many thanks to all... :-D

I undestand that carb ideas is more economic, but IE is better, is it true?

@ TeflonTom I have a friend that give me original used spare parts nearly for free, and here some people tolds me to do turbo because I can have more power spending few, but with turbo at 0,5- 0,6 bar, is it true? what you think about this?

For fuelling I can remap the ECU or change the injectors and take them from another car, I can change the fuel pressure regulator and use an external one.

I'm sorry if I insist but are years that I have this conviction. :-D I am dreaming this car turbo... :-D

I have an idea can I take the conrods form a diesel one? are they stronger?

About hte lightening I spoked with a professional and He sayed that He didn't recomend lightening the conrods and pistons because than they are less resistant...

If I don't it turbo what modification I have to do for increase the power?

What you mean for:

MS and megasquirt

If you turbo it, you'll need an ECU which is capable of working with boost, remember the engine will be on boost sometimes and other times not, so you have a more complex map to take care of.

Megasquirt - DIY ECU, works very well (don't listen to the people who say that only commercial ones work OK, I have a DTA setup on my current rally car and the Megasquirt has more functions, at 1/4 the cost). And don't forget, changing fuelling is free with an ECU, with carbs it involves new jets and outlay.

EFI is better. There is no question whatsoever. Carbs and mechanical (distributor) ignition both involve lots of compromises, whereas with an EFI setup you can program any load/speed site for EXACTLY what is needed. That simply isn't possible with a carb or distributor-type ignition.

Fantastic I didn't know this ecu... I didn't find the price, and when I try to order appear an error... :-( I'll try tomorrow

However I think that I need only U1 and the pcb...

djaychela how much do you pay for this ecu? many thanks...

However I found a magazine with a 1.3 Ibiza motor converted into turbo he used original conrods... He modify the pistons and the head...