Ever since i bought the Vrs the Near Side rear brake has been binding ever so slightly, This was given an advisory at the last Mot, So i stripped the rear brakes down, Wound the pistons back, Cleaned up, Applied some copper slip in the relevant places & Re. asssembled.

Still the N/s binds slightly..

So tonight I had another look, When rotating the Disc & using the inside edge of the caliper carrier as a reference point, You can see the gap decrease & increase, I originally thought it was a slightly warped Disc, So fitted a new disc & it behaves exactly the same..

So it would appear that the Stub axle is ever so slightly bent or the bearing is slightly oval !!!

No i wouldn't want to rplace the bearing only to find it's the Stub axle Etc... So ? can you get the Stub axle & bearing assembly ?.

I take it the Hub assembly just contains a new bearing Etc ...

Many thanks.

Dean

Edited 22 March, 201016 yr by dfullb

Ever since i bought the Vrs the Near Side rear brake has been binding ever so slightly, This was given an advisory at the last Mot, So i stripped the rear brakes down, Wound the pistons back, Cleaned up, Applied some copper slip in the relevant places & Re. asssembled.

Still the N/s binds slightly..

So tonight I had another look, When rotating the Disc & using the inside edge of the caliper carrier as a reference point, You can see the gap decrease & increase, I originally thought it was a slightly warped Disc, So fitted a new disc & it behaves exactly the same..

So it would appear that the Stub axle is ever so slightly bent or the bearing is slightly oval !!!

No i wouldn't want to rplace the bearing only to find it's the Stub axle Etc... So ? can you get the Stub axle & bearing assembly ?.

I take it the Hub assembly just contains a new bearing Etc ...

Many thanks.

Dean

the stub axle wont be bent, but the bearing hub assembly could be, hence why dsc goes in and out at a specific point, i'm surprised you don't have some sort of brake judder

the stub axle wont be bent, but the bearing hub assembly could be, hence why dsc goes in and out at a specific point, i'm surprised you don't have some sort of brake judder

Suprisingly no Judder, I think the Sliding caliper design is taking it out as it is quite slight ....

Doesn't the Stub axle just bolt to the beam ? & what makes you say that it wouldn't be bent ? Could overloading with a Car on a trailer not bend it !!!!

Cheers.

Dean

Suprisingly no Judder, I think the Sliding caliper design is taking it out as it is quite slight ....

Doesn't the Stub axle just bolt to the beam ? & what makes you say that it wouldn't be bent ? Could overloading with a Car on a trailer not bend it !!!!

Cheers.

Dean

the stub may be bent, but that wouldn't give you the fault that you have, as the stub doesn't move when the hub/bearing is spun

when you are spinning the disc, do you have the wheel bolts fitted and tight onto the disc, so that the disc is secured to the hub ?

when you are spinning the disc, do you have the wheel bolts fitted and tight onto the disc, so that the disc is secured to the hub ?

I had one bolt in oppsoite to the little Torx bolt but only nipped up by hand, I will double check with them properly tightened down, although with the wheel & everything on tight it does still bind on the Pads in one position during rotation.

Cheers.

Dean

I take it the Hub assembly just contains a new bearing Etc ...

According to the Haynes manual, the wheel hub & bearings are a "sealed unit" type of thing - you're supposed to only replace the whole thing, as that's how it comes, if that makes sense. Can't comment on the rest of it, though...

Yes. They are a sealed unit type .. Cheers.

WIll i need a puller to remove the hub once the nut is off the stub axle ? or will it easily slide off ??

Cheers.

Dean

Yes. They are a sealed unit type .. Cheers.

WIll i need a puller to remove the hub once the nut is off the stub axle ? or will it easily slide off ??

Cheers.

Dean

Watched this being done on a POLO.

One side pretty much fell off when they started pulling on the hub.

The other side was a complete sod to remove ( this was the side making the noise so could have been damaged)

The hardest part was removing the inner race of the inner bearing from the stub axle.

Did mine last weekend, hub just pulled off by hand no problem. There was evidence that grease had been applied to the stub axle, obviously at build. Whole job took less than an hour but you will need a 12 point 30mm socket + torque wrench. Torques up to 52 ft lbs, than angle tighten a further 30 degrees - easily measured as it equates to one point on the socket. Bearing/hub comes with new nut and cover. I was slightly surprised to see no ABS ring - or so I thought. It is a smooth ring, not toothed as I was expecting! Got the bearing from ebay for £72.

Did mine last weekend, hub just pulled off by hand no problem. There was evidence that grease had been applied to the stub axle, obviously at build. Whole job took less than an hour but you will need a 12 point 30mm socket + torque wrench. Torques up to 52 ft lbs, than angle tighten a further 30 degrees - easily measured as it equates to one point on the socket. Bearing/hub comes with new nut and cover. I was slightly surprised to see no ABS ring - or so I thought. It is a smooth ring, not toothed as I was expecting! Got the bearing from ebay for £72.

Bearing/hub assy at eurocarparts - £56 incl vat

Bearing/hub assy at eurocarparts - £56 incl vat

mine were VAG OEM

Cheers All

Swapped it tonight As stated fairly straight forward & came away easily..

Hardest bit was un-doing the old Nut, I had to use a large breaker bar, there was no way it was @ 52 lbs/Ft ...

So, Disc appears to run more true now ..... Although the Disc binds consistently now :( .

Will give it a few miles & hopefully it will bed in & better itself.. People must think im a Nutter when i stop & do the Finger test on each disc to check for variations in heat !!

Cheers.

Dean

"People must think im a Nutter when i stop & do the Finger test on each disc to check for variations in heat !! "

I used to do that until i burnt my finger one day

coz one of the pads on one side of the car used to wear out faster than other side, all fixed now

52 ft lbs +30 degrees, so tighter than 52 ft lbs

i like the pink caliper

"People must think im a Nutter when i stop & do the Finger test on each disc to check for variations in heat !! "

I used to do that until i burnt my finger one day

coz one of the pads on one side of the car used to wear out faster than other side, all fixed now

Now that is one reason to buy an IR thermometer from some where like Maplins - but it also has its problems - when its in its case it looks like a smallish hand gun - and that could cause even more funny looks!

Seriously though, to the OP, maybe you should try adding a pair of Sharan lever return springs - use "search" to find that thread if it interests you!

Edited 23 March, 201016 yr by rum4mo

52 ft lbs +30 degrees, so tighter than 52 ft lbs

i like the pink caliper

They are not really pink? are they?!?

They are not really pink? are they?!?

No it's my Phone & the Garage light !!! Honest ....

You can just see a splash of Red ......

Dean

Edited 24 March, 201016 yr by dfullb

Just a thought, but if your rear brake is binding, have you checked your brake pipes for any kinks/bends which might prevent the fluid from returning back towards the master cylinder? You may also want to check your master cylinder seals etc.

My mate had an issue with his front o/s brake binding after a couple of miles of driving/braking. He replaced the caliper, changed the brake pipes as they were rusted to hell, but it was still binding. Ended up changing the master cylinder and that cured the problem. It was a 10 year old car, but just wondering whether it's worth you checking the pipes and master cylinder - if you've cleaned the caliper sliders and piston, this is probably the next thing I'd look at...

Dave

Er...may just be me, but I can't see the stainless steel spring clips that fit top and bottom of the caliper bracket. If they are missing you will have a couple of probs - the pads will move up and down with forward/backward braking, and they won't be sliding properly and therefore will not release properly. Even if they are there, they could do with a wire brushing to.

Er...may just be me, but I can't see the stainless steel spring clips that fit top and bottom of the caliper bracket. If they are missing you will have a couple of probs - the pads will move up and down with forward/backward braking, and they won't be sliding properly and therefore will not release properly. Even if they are there, they could do with a wire brushing to.

Well Spotted

I took them off to give them a thorough clean they went back on prior to rebuild Honest

Dean