Leaving aside any questions of how heavy the steering would be, it's a MOT failure to retain the PAS rack. http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_230.htm See reason #3a 

 

Funnily enough that seems to suggest "retro-fitting" the correct unassisted rack etc is also technically an MOT fail, 

I've looped the lines to the rack on a few cars. Steering isn't as heavy as just with the pump disconnected. Then come MOT time you can unloop and reconnect the lines.

hammerong, you think that there could be some problem with wear on the rack? Since it's not designed to go fully manual I imagine it could be a issue with the rack wearing out prematurely.

Did you remove the pump from the aux belt, or did you leave the pump on?
If it was on, did you gut the pump so that it wouldn't add friction to the aux belt?
You done it on some felicia by any chance?

Funnily enough that seems to suggest "retro-fitting" the correct unassisted rack etc is also technically an MOT fail, 

I see what you mean, but I've had a professional opinion that if the correct unassisted rack is installed and the pump removed, then you can't fail. What that clause is intended to do is fail anyone who just disconnects the rack from the pump. 

hammerong, you think that there could be some problem with wear on the rack? Since it's not designed to go fully manual I imagine it could be a issue with the rack wearing out prematurely.

Did you remove the pump from the aux belt, or did you leave the pump on?

If it was on, did you gut the pump so that it wouldn't add friction to the aux belt?

You done it on some felicia by any chance?

When you loop the lines you leave oil in it, this lubricates the rack.

 

The rack should last longer as no pressure.

 

I gutted the pump on one car, the wheel snapped off, I dont think it was related. After that I always removed the pump and fitted the non PAS belt.

 

Retaining the power steering type rack gives the tighter ratio giving fantastic turn in for drifting.

I dont have experience of the devil fuel version, but I have driven both the PAS and non PAS petrol jobs and at every speed except dead slow for parking, there not really a lot of difference; however on a PAS job when the PAS failed (belt came loose), it was like the wheel was stuck in wet cement - not recommended!!!

When you loop the lines you leave oil in it, this lubricates the rack.

The rack should last longer as no pressure.

I gutted the pump on one car, the wheel snapped off, I dont think it was related. After that I always removed the pump and fitted the non PAS belt.

Retaining the power steering type rack gives the tighter ratio giving fantastic turn in for drifting.

 

Thank you for your optimistic contribution, and for sharing your experience in this venture.

I feel much more confident in pursuing this now.

Borrowing the image from this thread: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/275171-alternator-belt-route/

 

I can see that if I just try to remove the power steering pump alltogether, I will quickly run into problems:

The aux-belt would rub against itself...

 

I could work around this problem by removing the tensioner:

But in this case, I would have to add tension to the belt manually.
Easy to ackomplish?

Find out the belt routing for the NON pas model.

 

The 1.3 I nicked the head off tensioned the belt via the alternator iirc....

Find out the belt routing for the NON pas model.

 

The 1.3 I nicked the head off tensioned the belt via the alternator iirc....

Yes, the 1.3 engine without PAS does have a manual tensioner at the alternator.

Probably possible to retrofit, but I would need the parts.

I continued with this project tonight.

I did the loop over the piston.


The aux belt is still not on, but I could manage a little test ride without alternator and water pump.
I noticed no differance at all at slow speed, only when the car was barely moving I could feel any differance.
The wheel was noticable more difficult to turn, while the car was standing still.

The missy did a test ride as well, and the modification got her approval.

As noted in the image, I still need to plug the rotary valve.
I have the nipples left from the missing pipe, but need something to plug them.
I also need something to plug over the banjo-bolts.

Hopefull I'll have some more hours to spare in the garage tomorrow night, so that I can remove the pump, piping and reservoir.

To plug the banjo bolts either fit a standard bolt on the hole or stack washers up onto the bolt.

 

Good to hear it worked out for you

To plug the banjo bolts either fit a standard bolt on the hole or stack washers up onto the bolt.

 

Good to hear it worked out for you

Thank you!

 

I don't know what a "standard bolt" is. Do you have some number or such? I'm in town now, and it would be nice to pick up whatever I need to finish this project.

The nipples were of diameter 11mm, but what I need to get to plug them, I don't know.

If I can't find out the stuff I need, I'll just bring the lose ends to the store tomorrow.

Thank you!

 

I don't know what a "standard bolt" is. Do you have some number or such? I'm in town now, and it would be nice to pick up whatever I need to finish this project.

The nipples were of diameter 11mm, but what I need to get to plug them, I don't know.

If I can't find out the stuff I need, I'll just bring the lose ends to the store tomorrow.

A "standard bolt" is actually more likely to be a hex headed set screw (threaded right up to the head) but what you're looking for is bolts or washers (lots of washers; probably about 50) with the same size and thread as the banjo bolts.

Yes a set screw, thought 'standard bolt' would be easier to understand.

I will take the banjo bolts, and the nipples to the store tomorrow, and ask for some simmilar but sealed.
Is it ok to seal the holes, or do I need to have "loops" here as well?

Tonight, I got the piping, the reservoir and the pump out.
I also removed the automatic tensioner, which turned out to not be broke after all, it was only extremly nonflexible...

I would like to have some fittings, that would allow me to mount many different types of alternators, with a manual tension solution.
How does this look on a felicia not fitted with PAS?

I will take the banjo bolts, and the nipples to the store tomorrow, and ask for some simmilar but sealed.

Is it ok to seal the holes, or do I need to have "loops" here as well?

Just sealing the holes will be fine as long as the pump is not driven. 

I visited 5 different stores today, trying to find bolts that would fit the holes, but no luck...
I solved it by velding the nipples shut, and the banjobolts, I took a piece of the piping, and pushed it shut.

The result isn't that pretty, but it will keep dirt out from the rotary valve:


Here are the nipples and the banjos re-fitted:


A image on the by-passed fluid line, over the piston:


The remainder of my evening went into trying to manufacture a generator mounting.
 

It is incredible how complicated it is to get rid of extras my car hadn't factory fitted. No power steering, no A/C, no ECU, no cat, yet more economic, easier to maintain/repair and less polluting than an MPI version...

You couldn't buy that sort of car new now. I think a symptom of this is that modern cars become uneconomical to repair much sooner.

Although I have known about the cat removal giving more power and better mpg, it is not allowed in the UK unless the car was built before 1991/92. the cat saps about 30% of the possible power output of the engine, so can make a HUGE difference.

 

I nearly converted a 1990 Toyota Previa, but couldnt find any one who could remap the ecu for me; 170bhp and 40+ mpg would have been very nice.

Continued the project to remove power steering, and fix generator!

 

Don't laugh, It's my second welding project yet...
A generator mount.

Managed to fit a bosch 90amp generator from a 1.6 felicia equipped with AC there.
Had to buy a 106.9cm belt, which costed me 25 pounds, but other than that I declare the project a success.

With abit of luck, this will hold!

good effort :love:

 

although i dont think i like that mounting arrangement though, it remains to be seen how reliable it will be

I tried (roughly) to mimic how the mounting was in non power steering felicias.
I only had some crude images to work from.

How would you have done it, Tom?
And what problems do you think is likely to arise?