evening all

excuse my ignorance here as im a noob to briskoda and to turbo cars so go easy on me. my 02 plate octavia vrs has a very noisy turbo. i say this because my friend owns a mk4 golf gti and another of my mates has a 225bhp s3 - both are standard however both turbos on them are no where near as loud as the one on the vrs.

now last time i took it to the dealer they did say that it had been remapped, but previous owner had no receipt to confirm what or where it was done. is it simply the remap that is causing the turbo to be so loud? noise starts at 2500rpm. OR is it a possible sign of a boost leak?

PLUS it has always had the CEL light on and the previous owner just said that it was because it had been remapped? surely not all remaps cause this to happen?? this is swaying me towards thinking its a boost leak??

any ideas anyone?? im thining of uploading a vid to youtube so you guys can hear for yourself how loud it is

any help/advice is much appreciated

cheers

There should not be a CEL from a remap.

You need it VAG-Com'd to find out what the CEL is for.

If it had a CEL light on, how comes the dealer didn't find out what the fault code was? If it is a boost leak they should see the code 17705 - "pressure drop between turbocharger and throttle valve".

If it's a boost leak big enough for it to be making a loud noise you can notice then that usually means it's one of the bigger boost pipes that are disconnected or split, but a boost leak of that size should cause the car to go into limp mode (it will drive like a non turbocharged car).

What does the turbo noise sound like? It's not a sort of wailing noise is it? There was a member on here a couple of months ago had that and it turned out to be foreign object damage to the vanes in the turbo :(

Edited 8 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

If it is a boost leak they should see the code 17705 - "pressure drop between turbocharger and throttle valve".

What does the turbo noise sound like? It's not a sort of wailing noise is it? There was a member on here a couple of months ago had that and it turned out to be foreign object damage to the vanes in the turbo :(

thanks for the response guys

I am taking the car into the dealer today for a diagnostic scan so will report back with a code as soon as i get it....

theres nothning realy abnormal about the sound, its not really whining - it does sound like the turbo ttssssssssss sound but LOUD - more so than what i was expecting which is making me think theres a leak . is there a boost leak test pipe on this AUQ engine like on other VAG turbo models?

and also my car only has the climatronic?! heating/cooler unit on the dash does this mean that i do not have Air Con? its just in the user manual it shows images of an A/C switch which i do not have? i would have thought the top spec octavia (vrs) even 8 years old would have had air con as standard?! the reason i ask is because the so called cool air thats coming out is constantly **** warm.....?

Thanks again

Climatronic is climate control need to make sure the "ECO" light isn't showing. Press auto and press the blue button till you see "LO" and it should come out very cold

The climatronic is better than air con - it automatically controls the interior temperature to keep it at what you set it at, whereas aircon is just able to blow de-humidified cool air when you need it. That said, it sounds like there is a fault with your climatronic. When it is in auto you should be able to press the blue (temp down) button until it goes to "LO" on the display and it will start blowing icy cold. The clutch on the compressor may have come off or it may just need a leak check and a regas.

Let us know how you get on with the fault code check.

guys, once again thanks for all the info - really appreciated. i hate sounding like an idiot with these things, but up until now all i have owned is NA powered Audis and VW's.

right just got back from the dealers. they didnt give me a code unfortunately however i had a quick read of the "VAS" screen while it was up and it said there was a fault with "the secondary air pump motor V101". they did ask me if in the mornings it sounds rough when first started - which it does, sounds like a diesel. the technician then went on to say that the rivets originally used for the above do rot over time and so i booked it in so they can have a better look. however should the above cause the leaking sound i first thought i was getting?

with regards to the climate control, i can see the compressor unit with a nice blue label sat underneath the alternator and it seems to spinning ok and there is no slipping from the belt, but how can i tell if the clutch has come off or is shot? is there an easy way to tell? dealer is also going to check this out when its in.

cheers

I would'nt have expected the noise to be all the time if its the secondary air pump

If you have a split secondary air pump then you get a lot of noise for the first minute or so but when the pump stops working you shouldn't hear any more noise

guys - just an update.

found a great how to guide on ukmivs forum which is a step by step guide to fixing the secondary air pump by using bolts rather than the original rivets - quite a common problem apparently?! going to have a go at this at the weekend and hopefully this will fix the CEL light thats constantly on. will also check for any leaks whilst im there see if theres anything obvious.

anything i can do myself with the climatronic compressor unit. anything to check ie clutch, belt and the unit itself?

thanks again

You should be able to see if the clutch has fallen off the climatronic compressor if you're under there doing the secondary air pump. Hopefully someones got a pic of the compressor clutch etc.

The secondary air pump rivets are a common problem, a lot of people just rip out the secondary air system altogether.

Edited 9 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

hi mate,

just been under the car today and checked the secondary air pump and it is fine, the rivets are solid and theres no leak so why its putting the CEL light on im not really sure. booked in dealers for 19th to sort out the compressor, i think (from reading posts on here) it might just need regassing and that should fix it - fingers crossed.

im thinking of fitting a recirc valve in the next few weeks - you had any experience of these? if so any recommendations. also which head unit you installed on your vrs?

cheers

shane

There are many details on my mods on my website if you fancy a read

Head unit, DV, secondary air pump removal, and much more tinkering

Link below

im thinking of fitting a recirc valve in the next few weeks - you had any experience of these? if so any recommendations. also which head unit you installed on your vrs?

Recirc for what? Do you mean a replacement divertor valve?

The head unit I've got is this one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/7-Inch-Touch-Screen-Car-DVD-Media-System-iPOD-TV-GPS_W0QQitemZ280406998302QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item41498f3d1e

sorry mate, the one i mean is this one My link

when i called them they said that it wa a good product but were trying to push me onto their own 007P. not sure which one to choose. do you have either fitted?!

Cheers

The Split-R is not fully re-circulating (although you can set it to be if you want). If you are going to keep it fully re-circulating then buy the 007P, it's about £40 cheaper than the Split-R. Otherwise you're buying a more expensive valve for a feature you'll never use.

I've had both, recently changed to a Forge 007P (bought from Awesome) as I was bored of the chav noise of the Split-R.

Forge also do a 007PA which is an even better option as it stops the vac pipe on top of the DV from rubbing on the engine cover if you still have your engine cover on:

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=&product=FMCL007PA

Awesome don't sell those though so you'd need to get it straight from Forge.

Edited 13 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

guys, once again thanks for all the info - really appreciated. i hate sounding like an idiot with these things, but up until now all i have owned is NA powered Audis and VW's.

right just got back from the dealers. they didnt give me a code unfortunately however i had a quick read of the "VAS" screen while it was up and it said there was a fault with "the secondary air pump motor V101". they did ask me if in the mornings it sounds rough when first started - which it does, sounds like a diesel. the technician then went on to say that the rivets originally used for the above do rot over time and so i booked it in so they can have a better look. however should the above cause the leaking sound i first thought i was getting?

with regards to the climate control, i can see the compressor unit with a nice blue label sat underneath the alternator and it seems to spinning ok and there is no slipping from the belt, but how can i tell if the clutch has come off or is shot? is there an easy way to tell? dealer is also going to check this out when its in.

cheers

Why didn't the garage give you the code? I'm assuming you paid for the check so they should give you all the print outs. As for the CEL light, it hasn't got a de-cat exhaust fitted has it?

Have you got an induction kit on the car? makes turbo noises a lot louder, if not, check you havent got a loose pipe on the airbox

jigger and jomibo thanks for your replies. theres no induction kit on the car or decat - it is bog standard apart from the map, but unfortuantely i have no proof of the map or even know who did it which is pretty frustrating.

well i know one of the guys up at the dealers and he said just pop it in. he didnt give me a print out i was just stood there watching him do his thing. interestingly enough the light has come back on again today even though the secondary air pump looks sweet after my check over the weekend - so need to get to the bottom of it soon cos that CEL is doing my head in!!

its booked in for monday 19th so will ask for a printout of the codes and then post them back here.

thanks

right gents - all sorted.

went into the dealers today at long last. they firstly regassed the air con for me and now it is freeeeeeezing cold so well chuffed with that!

also finally solved the "secondary pump" issue. the fault reader was spot on. although the secondary pump was in tact and the seals were all good on it and rivets were solid, when they took it apart to their horror they found that roughly half of the pump was full of...........water!! it had been there a while as well cos the whole inside of it was just a murky, rusty brown colour. i couldnt believe how much water was in there literally was swamped in it. no wonder i had a persistent CEL!

they thought at one time it might have been driven through some pretty deep water as the pump sits so low to the ground and they couldnt really think of any other explanation as its the first example they have seen like that. all i can say is that one of the previous owners must have been a right nonce!

anyway glad its all sorted and hope this helps someone in future with similar issues

thanks again for all your help

LOL thats gotta be a first, pump clogged with water!

I suppose if one of the plastic hoses to the pump had come loose at some point water could have got in that way.

Glad it's sorted! - has the noise you originally thought was from the turbo gone away now?

Edited 20 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

LOL thats gotta be a first, pump clogged with water!

I suppose if one of the plastic hoses to the pump had come loose at some point water could have got in that way.

Glad it's sorted! - has the noise you originally thought was from the turbo gone away now?

hi mate,

its funny you ask that cos i was just going to post again as i left that off the last post. yeah it has, no noise now at all - apart from the turbo obviously. i was suprised at how audible the standard DV is. quite a nice sound when it dumps all that air into the airbox. does that get any louder with the 007? i ordered the 007PA under your recommendation btw. ordered it yesterday so cannot wait to get it fitted.

cheers

Its only slighty louder with a 007P. My standard Bosch valve was surprisingly loud though, louder than the standard valves on other cars I'd been in, so when I fitted the 007P it didn't sound much different. I think having an uprated panel filter in the air box instead of the OEM one makes the noise a bit louder. IMO the best way to hear the 007P is with the windows closed and the air vents in the dash open.

I must get round to ordering a new top bit from Forge to convert mine from a 007P to a 007PA as I'm getting the odd judder when I release the throttle and I think it might be the vac hose being crushed or at an awkward angle.

yeah def think panel filter is next once the 007PA is installed.

just out of interest chicken_eyebrow - do you have your secondary air pump still installed? if so is it very noisy when starting the engine from cold? its just the new one they fitted shrieked like mad for about a minute this morning. is this normal?

its just i had a little look at other vag 1.8t based forums about this water in secondary air pump. it turns out its quite common amongst TT, A4 and Passat owners of the same engine.

"In the event you have an A4 1.8T with engine code ATW with the DTC of 16795 - Secondary Air Injection system, Incorrect flow Detected, a leaking Combination valve could be the problem. A leaking valve causes exhaust gas to enter the secondary air system. The water from exhaust condensation travels through the entire secondary air injection system and forms a pool at the base of the pump housing. In most cases the water causes the air pump to corrode. Inspecting the combination valve will reveal the problem."

Now heres the question - anyone know if the VRS MK1 has a "combination valve" as the symptoms of my car seem to be pointing towards this particular part.

Ahaaah so thats how the water gets in there... it's condensation from the exhaust system!

Yes we all have a combination valve, it is mounted on the back right hand side of the engine near the air intake pipework. It is taken off when you do the secondary air system removal and the hole in the block is plugged with a Forge blanking plate - see here for Robs guide:

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/AirSystemRemoval.htm

This is the location of the valve

I would consider replacing your combi valve in that case, otherwise in a few months your new air pump will start to suffer the same fate (or you could remove the secondary air system although not such a good idea if you've just bought a new pump).

I still have the pump on mine and it's always worked fine. No screeching noises so if that doesn't go away after a week or so I would go back to the garage. If it's only a very short screech (like a few seconds) that is your starter motor sticking but if it lasts for 60-90 seconds, and it never did it before, then it probably is the secondary air pump.

Edited 21 July, 201015 yr by chicken_eyebrow

mate thank you so much for the pic been searching for one all day! i had a quick mooch before but just couldn't find it!

on another forum i found this:

"typically the pump failure is caused by 2 reasons. 1st being the corrugated plastic hose is split allowing water into the pump. 2nd is a broken vacuum line to the combi valve, this causes the combi valve to allow warm exhaust air back through the cold SAIP where it condenses and fills the pump with water"

so im guessing one of the above has happened to my car over time - its just not much is mentioned on this forum so im guessing the skoda variant of the 1.8t must be a little better designed maybe?!

what im gonna do is check the hosing tonight right from the pump to airbox and from pump to the combi valve and also the hosing on the valve itself and see if i can spot any obvious breaks/leaks etc. i think it might explain why the pump is so noisy as well. gonna get the camera out and take a vid as well tonight and post the link here because i am adament that a pump should not be that noisy. literally people stare at me when i start the car at my work because it sounds like henry the hoover is having a field day in my engine bay!

Edited 21 July, 201015 yr by vrs200bhp