Lol, is this thread still going!!! As said previously, you pay cheap you pay twice!! Hope all you guys get your problems sorted.

i didn't buy cheap............ i have gone for the Middle of the Range collies! the only way i could have gone more expensive for what i wanted was KW V1s which are the more expensive version of what i have....... same springs..... same shocks........ different tag.........

but i do agree with your statement Buy cheap, Buy Twice...... but not straight away, that line is to state they have half the life of the more expensive brand not 1/10000 of the life.

We wont let it lie.... this is a known fault with them and they cant supply something which has a fault like this...... there are at least 2 of us who have the same problem. that is not coincidence. if you have the mentality of 'oh well somethings up but i can live with it' they wont know about this fault and they cant improve it......

People will use sites like this to get reviews on the coilovers read the yea its good but..... and not buy them.

Well help everyone out here, help them figure the problem and sort it. and ppl get what they are after.

my rear shock is not the first one. someone else had it happen. but that is an easy fix. (you take luck of manufacturing with that, it could have happened to a £1,500 set)

i didn't buy cheap............ i have gone for the Middle of the Range collies! the only way i could have gone more expensive for what i wanted was KW V1s which are the more expensive version of what i have....... same springs..... same shocks........ different tag.........

but i do agree with your statement Buy cheap, Buy Twice...... but not straight away, that line is to state they have half the life of the more expensive brand not 1/10000 of the life.

We wont let it lie.... this is a known fault with them and they cant supply something which has a fault like this...... there are at least 2 of us who have the same problem. that is not coincidence. if you have the mentality of 'oh well somethings up but i can live with it' they wont know about this fault and they cant improve it......

People will use sites like this to get reviews on the coilovers read the yea its good but..... and not buy them.

Well help everyone out here, help them figure the problem and sort it. and ppl get what they are after.

my rear shock is not the first one. someone else had it happen. but that is an easy fix. (you take luck of manufacturing with that, it could have happened to a £1,500 set)

They are the exact same but the KWs are made of a different metal so they are not cheap and he wont pay twice because of this fact. £500-£600 is not cheap or expensive for a set of coilovers.

As said before this has happend to my set and what I have seen from this thread and others it is a common occurrence for the KW/Weitec rear shocks.

It rings out you say? It should be transfered to Germany before it rings out.....what number do you have? Did you want Alan's 'direct' number?

350-500 is what I call cheap coil-overs. 700-800 is where they become better, where you can adjust more than just the ride height.

If you can adjust more than ride height its for spirited driving and track days.

GWerks and several other well known companies state that a base coilover is a good replacement for a daily driver who wants the ability to drop the car as he/she likes.

I wouldn't call £400 cheap for suspension, its mid-range as said before, KW's are £550 for the same coilovers I have, different name.

Anyway, GWerks spoke to this chap called 'Alan' that AdamTDI mentioned, turns out he is the chap responsible for getting in touch with ze germans. Ordered the rubber tubing part, be with them tomorrow but they are off to Holland for a DUB show so no joy until next week.

If this doesn't fix it they will look at helper springs.

Anyway, GWerks spoke to this chap called 'Alan' that AdamTDI mentioned, turns out he is the chap responsible for getting in touch with ze germans. Ordered the rubber tubing part, be with them tomorrow but they are off to Holland for a DUB show so no joy until next week.

If this doesn't fix it they will look at helper springs.

Once its ordered in past experience it takes 3-4 working days to avive at your door.

It would seem everything has to go through him as the office manager but everything technical goes through Germany.

Thanks adlav for the PM and totally seperate from this thread, about a week ago I went out to my car to try and sort something out with my AP's.

I wound the adjuster collar right down so the spring was free and checked the top mount bearings - they were sweet as I replaced them after I fitted the coilies (because I thought it was them making the noise!)

I cleaned out loads of road chippings and 'sand' from between the spring and collar AND then I blathered copper grease on the top mount, bottom collar and all round the coils of the spring - specifically upper and lower bits that make contact as the spring compresses.

Result - they are MUCH quietier than before. The embarrassing clunking noise as you go up and down speed bumps is just about gone, not completely but loads better than before. If you feel confident, try it - doesn't take long if the threads are nice and clean - mine were not! If not get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you.

The question is how long will this last and should we really have to go to these lengths to sort a product that is touted to be 'Quality and TUV approved'

As for this TUV height limit, there was NOTHING with my coilovers, just the mechanical parts, so I don't really see how that argument holds up but I will measure mine and post back.

Spoken to Alan, but we just got no response from anyone at KW today.

TUV is a German standard that car parts have to meet when being sold in Germany. but is not regulated over here.....

I have just spent ALL evening lifting the car a little.... front end was a doddle wind up 3/4 of an inch lock screw, measure on flat, adjust to level. took 15min.

The Rear!!!

Raised the coller about 30 mm on both sides...... drop car...... needs to go up a bit....... wind up some more........drop car........ yep level......... go for drive........ come back.........there 1cm out (drivers side lower) wind up....... check......... not enough........... wind up check.......... not enough........... wind up go for drive stop on level ground only mm out........ the amount of exposed thread i have on the drivers side is about 5x what i have on the passenger side! this isnt right........

Forgot to grab my tape measure on the way out of the house so I'll try remember when I get home.

Yeah TUV is a German thing but regularly used by the manufacturers to advertise their products and sometimes suggests that this is better than British standards (of course this may/may not be true) so if they are going to use it to defend criticism of their products then it's only fair that they provide some information in the first place.

Why manufacture a coilover that is capable of lowering the car by, I dont know, not measured it but mine has a clearance above the arches that you can just get your fingers in but there are many many threads left on the body of the damper, but it wont conform to any claimed standard if you lower by a certain amount!!!

I made a phone call to Venom when I got my AP's complaining about the lack of helper spring, who directed me to give AP a call, but I never did so thanks to the guys on here who have the time and energy to make a proper complaint on our behalfs

PS apart from this noise problem I have been impressed with the APs, had FSD/Eibachs on before (so I know all about paying money thankyou very much!) and didnt really like them, the APs perform better and car actually looks like its been lowered

Edited 15 July, 201015 yr by VeeKar

see i was at the same height and i have had to raise the car....

see i was at the same height and i have had to raise the car....

I'll get the tape out when I get home but 3/4 inch sounds like a lot to me and I will just lower back down if it looks naff (normal) and live with it.

Have you cured it by raising the front (aside from your, excuse me, rear problems of course)?

OK mine are at 320 and have been there for 18months so I really doubt I'll get anywhere with warranty but will be interesting to find out what completely cures it.

Nobody fancies getting their hands dirty with a bit of copper grease then?

If I could bear the flack from the neighbours I would go out and move them up a bit just to see but it really is embarassing the amount of time I spend out there fettling

Edited 15 July, 201015 yr by VeeKar

Nope its just as bad as ever now, and nomatter how much i wind the drivers side up it just wont raise the height to match the passenger side on the rear..... its really anoying!

The rears are wound soo oddly?! i have the passenger side still wound to the bottom and the drivers side has half the thread showing underneath...... but it just wont sit level......

Nope its just as bad as ever now, and nomatter how much i wind the drivers side up it just wont raise the height to match the passenger side on the rear..... its really anoying!

The rears are wound soo oddly?! i have the passenger side still wound to the bottom and the drivers side has half the thread showing underneath...... but it just wont sit level......

You shouldn't be having any problems like that if everything else is OK with your car, so it suggests that something is wrong (to me, but I am definiteley no expert) maybe you should get it checked over by a mechanic, it could be dangerous to drive.

Other than that I would say start again with your adjustments front and rear - dont rely on centre of the wheel to arch measurement, but measure from the hub to the bottom of the adjuster collar as this cannot move (unlike the body of the car)

Then see if the rear sits level with the adjusters down as far as they will go and raise it from there - if it doesnt sit level like that then you have some other problem?

On the rear have the bottom spring mounts been installed in the same way on both sides? I remember from fitting mine that there is only one bolt in the centre and the whole thing can swivel round at all angles, should be pretty obvious just having a good look at them if they are not at right angles to the top rubber spring locator. Are both springs located on the collars OK?

I'm forgetting who has posted what now but if you're the one with the damper problems then you should of course get that sorted first.

Seriously if its not level dont drive it too far or too fast til you get it sorted, I hope its no big thing to sort out but until you know...?

its level, they just have to be set really oddly.....

its level, they just have to be set really oddly.....

Ok bad choice of words, Equal is the word I should have used and yours is far from it

Car should be level with more or less equal adjustments.

Edited 16 July, 201015 yr by VeeKar

going to put the car away tonight when i get home.

Does anyone know where i can put the rear axel stands? just wanna get the weight off it for the time it is sat..

going to put the car away tonight when i get home.

Does anyone know where i can put the rear axel stands? just wanna get the weight off it for the time it is sat..

On the rear beam.

I measure my coilovers equally by winding the rears all the way down and measuring the bottom of the adjuster plate to the bit where the thread stops on the fronts. Job done, all level.

wont that still put the weight of the car on the rear sus?

or

not as badly as if the car is on the floor?

Cheeers

I measure my coilovers equally by winding the rears all the way down and measuring the bottom of the adjuster plate to the bit where the thread stops on the fronts. Job done, all level.

What? thats a lot of thread!!!! my rears dont have that much!!! LOL

If you mean match the amount of thred showing all rounf the car?

Edited 16 July, 201015 yr by vRSsunroof

Nah, rears wound all the way - simple for both sides to be level.

Fronts, measure 7cm from bottom of plate to the bit where thread stops on the strut, will be level at front and from left to right.

Hard to explain in words lol

Edited 16 July, 201015 yr by Ad Lav

I have some noises from mine but nothing too OTT. On full lock I get bangs on rough surfaces but that's the droplinks hitting the arch liner. I do get knocking noises but I just put that down to lowering the car a bit. It's not anything that's really bothered me. Is anyone able to post a video of the noises they get. If it's any use I can go out for a drive tomorrow with the video camera and film what mine's like? I've got Weitecs.

I have some noises from mine but nothing too OTT. On full lock I get bangs on rough surfaces but that's the droplinks hitting the arch liner. I do get knocking noises but I just put that down to lowering the car a bit. It's not anything that's really bothered me. Is anyone able to post a video of the noises they get. If it's any use I can go out for a drive tomorrow with the video camera and film what mine's like? I've got Weitecs.

sounds pretty similar to mine, [weitec also] although i fitted smaller link arms from a mondeo,[if you havent alreayd you should try it to hopefully avoid connecting with inner arch]

Any joy with suspension problems in the past - ie similar to ours?

hi every one i have fk streets and im having the same prob,think its the top mounts because for some reason no matter how tight they are they still move and thats were im getting the knock form.

but i had sport tec coilovers before and they were sweet ... :S its doing my head in :no:

Just out of interest did everyone who's getting the knocking noises fit the black plastic cap thing that the coilovers came with into the top mount? When I was putting the shocks and top mounts together I wasn't quite sure what it was for... but it seemed to fit nicely into the bearing/top mount so I left it in and pushed it up nice and snug. Did everyone else keep this bit?

Edited 17 July, 201015 yr by Schern

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!