Hi to those who know i been looking to buy a superb, guess what?i bought 1 today!!!

2003 Skoda Superb 1.9 TDi Comfort

But there are few problems.

1st: the tire pressure label in the filler cap has been peeled off so i dont know the right pressure for both unladen and full load. Standard 16" wheels

2nd: the driver doors lighting is gone, as in the light when you open the door includes both the LED under the mirror and the ambient light under the door card

3rd:the driver door requires 2 pulls from the handle to open.is this a safety feature or is it a problem?

If anyone of you who can answer my questions I would be very grateful!!!

Thanks in advance!!!

Hi to those who know i been looking to buy a superb, guess what?i bought 1 today!!!

2003 Skoda Superb 1.9 TDi Comfort

But there are few problems.

1st: the tire pressure label in the filler cap has been peeled off so i dont know the right pressure for both unladen and full load. Standard 16" wheels

2nd: the driver doors lighting is gone, as in the light when you open the door includes both the LED under the mirror and the ambient light under the door card

3rd:the driver door requires 2 pulls from the handle to open.is this a safety feature or is it a problem?

If anyone of you who can answer my questions I would be very grateful!!!

Thanks in advance!!!

1 - put 32 psi in all round for unlaiden, and 35 for loaded up.

2 - bulbs? if not fuse and finally the convenience module, also check the bulkhead for water retention.

3 - 2 pulls is normally because the door has been locked from the inside, could be CM related again though.

hth.

Hi thanks for replying.

I just check my tyre pressure today its 36 up front and 35 at the rear and they all look under inflated as there is quite a lot of bulge specially the front.

I have checked the bulb and its not blown.and where is the fuse box that's for the lights?i mean all the door light works on all the other doors, its just driver side its not working.

You mean even i have a unlocked door it still needs 2 pulls to open?

I think you have water under the front passenger carpet. This is well documented here.

Hi thanks for replying.

I just check my tyre pressure today its 36 up front and 35 at the rear and they all look under inflated as there is quite a lot of bulge specially the front.

You mean even i have a unlocked door it still needs 2 pulls to open?

She is a heavy car so the tyres will look bulged a bit.

Na, if you get in and hit the lock button, you have to pull the lever twice to open the door, if you haven't pressed the button on the window switch console there's another problem, check the carpets are dry, and if they are check the CM, it's probable that it's been repaired before and the contacts have rusted, it's somewhere under the passenger seat btw.

Yes i jsut went and check there is a slight dampness in the carpet, where can i get this problem sorted?as im scared to take the car apart:(

Yes i jsut went and check there is a slight dampness in the carpet, where can i get this problem sorted?as im scared to take the car apart:(

Start off by removing the plastic panel by the wipers, then remove the battery, then the tray and then clear out the grommets, there is another one under the servo btw, once this is done run the heater hot for as long as it takes to dry the cerpet, and then hope all the water is gone, if this doesn't sort it, you will have to clean out and possibly replace the comfort module, I recommend you try to get it dry and cleaned out in the scuttle, and then if need be get an auto electrician to sort the rest out.

The pulling the handle twice bit has happened to my rear passenger door. It makes a groaining noise when it trys to unlock but is now permantly deadlocked shut, I cant open it :S.... Started with the double pull of the handle.

you are scaring me now.if that happens to me than i wont be able to get into my car and drive>< so have you found what the problem is?something to do with the CCM?

I have got a paper says maintainance report and saw the pollen filter have been replace before by the owner before, infact twice it has been done.do you think the seal should had been already replaced?or they dont fix it automatically until they fail(flood)? would i be able to claim it against skoda?

plus the CCM on ebay are they model specific or just VAG group ones?

thanks

you are scaring me now.if that happens to me than i wont be able to get into my car and drive>< so have you found what the problem is?something to do with the CCM?

I have got a paper says maintainance report and saw the pollen filter have been replace before by the owner before, infact twice it has been done.do you think the seal should had been already replaced?or they dont fix it automatically until they fail(flood)? would i be able to claim it against skoda?

plus the CCM on ebay are they model specific or just VAG group ones?

thanks

Just replacing the pollen filter does NOT cure the water ingress problem. Check out the "sticky" about water Ingress solved in the main Superb 1 menu.

yes i know change of the pollen filter dont solve the problem.what i meant was when volkswagen and skoda found out the water ingress problem dont they fix it discretly when doing the pollen filter so customers wont complain when it happen or avoid it to happen?

Anyway i have clear out the drain holes today, scratched myself here and there. when i was doing the drain holes i can see any bolts or nuts holding the actual pollen filter holder in place?do i just pull it hard it will come off?

plus can i check the carpet without actually remove the passenger seat?

when volkswagen and skoda found out the water ingress problem dont they fix it discretly when doing the pollen filter so customers wont complain when it happen or avoid it to happen?

- but that would mean that they give a toss about customers - which they don't.

Skoda don't even acknowledge a problem exists...

As for your other points - don't know, it's a job I've got planned sometime this month too!

when i have my lunch break later at 2 i will try lift the carpet.thats if i can find the way in first!lol

and may i ask how do you remove the pollen filter holder?

and may i ask how do you remove the pollen filter holder?

The best way to remove it is to remove the wipers and arms then the scuttle panel can be removed from below the windscreen., this gives you the best access to the tray.

The scuttle panel may take some persuasion, easiest way is the use a plastic scraper between the screen and the panel and gently prise it from it's clip. The windscreen has a channel fixed to the bottom edge into which the scuttle panel fixes along its length. Be careful so as not to break the panel though the part is shared with the Passat and is only just over £10 for a replacement. Before you do this there should be 2 clips on the bottom of the panel holding it to bracket (one beneath the drivers wiper arm, the other near the centre)

Carefully remove the rain channel (look how it's attached the the filter tray) so as not to break the clips, then you'll be able to remove the (3 I think) nuts that hold the housing to the bulkhead.

All in just under an hour if you're not sure what you're doing.

My scuttle panel snapped in two when were were fairly gently easing it back into place, but it's such a clean break and it's right in the middle, so it almost looks like it was designed that way.

The pollen filter had been "fixed" in an odd sort of way with the addition of some black mastic round the outside of the white foam original seal, but it was still leaking a bit. The very helpful lad at the local VW main agent actually gave me the exact length of the correct plastic / putty cord that they use to fix the Passat's pollen filter, so I bought him a drink in return. This makes a much better flexible seal that bolted down on the already added mastic ( now hard) and should be fine.

Windscreen wipers need a puller to get them off, but they popped off fine with the correct puller. Took off the C clips, dropped the shafts and oiled them with a mix of gear oil and molybdenum paste, now really smooth and quiet.

Took out the battery and shelf, gave the "easy to reach" grommet a haircut, so that it lost the skirt that tends to close in and hold debris. Removed the far grommet as it is hard to get to and was close to being blocked. Sprayed some Waxoyl all round the battery well and re-assembled.

Couple of hours work and well worth it just for the peace of mind, but those batteries are seriously heavy on the V6 .... good job they come with carrying handles.

i havent got any tools to remove the wipers can i remove the pollen filter holder any other way?

plus what is the easiest way to remove the headlamp for bulb replacement?as i tried today i cant get it out specially the passenger side as the bottom of the headlamp couldnt lift out.i read the thread in the technical section about removing the bumper.but i mean every time a blown bulb takes a bumper with it just stupid.

and how can i remove the side seal in the passenger side to get underneith the carpet?

The wipers do not have to be removed to do the pollen filter housing, but it is tight to get at the rear r/h side nut, I found a 1/4" drive socket set with a knuckle joint on ideal.

To remove the headlamps the bumper does indeed have to be removed, this can be done in around 10 mins if you have some torx sockets, but it is possible to just about replace the bulbs without removing the headlights. For the passenger side first remove the plastic cover over the power steering reservoir to give you a bit more room, likewise on the drivers side it is easier if you remove the trunking to the air filter housing first.

The door seals just pull off.

thanks gizmo68!!!i dont know what else to call you apart "the superb guru"

I am trying to put some 100W H7 and some 100W H3 for the main beam and some white LED H3 for the fog and maybe after that i will fit some Orange LED for the signal lights so i can have a clean headlamp

About the seal round the pollen filter housing can i just put silicon around the inner edge of the inlet or do i really have to remove it to put the sealant where the original seal is?

You will need to remove the housing to get a good seal of sealant on the housing as there is not a great deal of room around it, the body will also be pretty mucky so that will need to be cleaned once the housing is off to enable a good seal.

you are scaring me now.if that happens to me than i wont be able to get into my car and drive>< so have you found what the problem is?something to do with the CCM?I have got a paper says maintainance report and saw the pollen filter have been replace before by the owner before, infact twice it has been done.do you think the seal should had been already replaced?or they dont fix it automatically until they fail(flood)? would i be able to claim it against skoda?plus the CCM on ebay are they model specific or just VAG group ones?thanks

Im still trying to break into my door , the rear window mechanism seems to be more of an arse than the front doors. Its just a couple of bolts holding the windows onto the window rail on the front, so its pretty easy to remove the door inards.I dont think its CCM related or even dry solder joint related, I think the mechanism has just failed. It almost sounds as if a cog has ground its teeth off and just doesnt haveenough contact to unlock the door when I try to unlock it.

Ill let you know if I ever get it fixed.You need to have the door open to take the door apart properly, which kinds puts me in a tricky situation because im taking the door apart to get the door open

i will try to remove the pollen filter housing tomorrow and give my car a real good clean inside out.what sealant should i use for the pollen filter housing?can i just use window sealant or i need something softer that flex?

Edited 12 September, 201015 yr by Superb Hunter

I used an antifungal bathroom sealant (so it doesn't go mouldy) it also remains slightly flexible, remove the old foam seal and clean /dry the recess, then put a really good bead of sealant into the recess.

Plumbers Mate is another good seal, roll it out to the size you need *beware it's very sticky* and then apply it, it's one that doesn't go hard and remains flexible.

i have sealed the housing using bathroom silicon.i think that should do the job pretty well.next is to work on my passenger interior for node check.

can i ask how much mpg and how far can they go on one tank?when the low fuel warning is on how many litre or how far can i go on that?

just out of curiousity has anyone tried out those ebay tdi tuning box?

I average 50 mpg and around 700 miles to a tankful (depending on driving speed etc), once the light is on I can get another 50 miles - but i don't normally push it that far.

Obviously if you drive the car a lot harder or always through town then the mpg will suffer.