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My Evening / Night photographs

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Hi all,

Among my photos on the internet are photos taken late in the evening / at night in Bristol and elsewhere. I have added 9 photos this evening: 6 to Bristol and 3 to Other Locations. Links to photos:

http://davespix.fotopic.net/show_group.php?id=10658

Enjoy.

Dave

Edited by DaveHarries

Hi Dave, Just tooka ganders through your images. You have some great ideas there but the setup needs a adjusment. I ama really keen night tog so a few words of advice...

I would sugguest using a much lower ISO with a wide Fstop

Stick the camera on tripod and use a slower shutter

Just take your time. A good night photo is a slow process.

Other than that as I said great compositions, I prefer the torquay ones out of the lot. BTW try having fun with lights, can get interesting :)

A few of mine.

4563419000_c2fa0c865c_o.jpg

3968048527_d88dfa9f2c_o.jpg

3968049421_08a9dfd23c_o.jpg

I would sugguest using a much lower ISO with a wide Fstop

Stick the camera on tripod and use a slower shutter

Just take your time. A good night photo is a slow process.

Do you use mirror lockup to avoid 'shutter slap'? I've never managed to get the hang of long exposures on a tripod. Even at low ISO I get a whole host of noise.

What camera are you using? You shouldn't get noise with a low ISO.

Go for the lowest iso you can and keep it steady. Don't worry about shutter shake, it wont matter on that long an exposure.

Do you use mirror lockup to avoid 'shutter slap'? I've never managed to get the hang of long exposures on a tripod. Even at low ISO I get a whole host of noise.

I don't use mirror lockup, I need to start doing it TBH. To avoids shake I do use a cable shutter release. As said you shouldn't really have any noise. I use a Nikon D90 on ISO of 200 generally.

  • Author

Hi guys,

Thanks for your comments. In reply:

DBP: I agree that I need a tripod but haven't got one. My camera has a "BS" (Best Shot) thing to it which adjusts settings accordingly. There are 38 settings. My camera has ISO settings of either AUTO, 64, 100, 200, 400 or 800. I tend to keep it on AUTO as I have no idea what the ISO is for. Nice photos from you as well and I like the one with the wavy lines: how did you get that? Thanks also fro your recommendation of an ISO of 200.

jrw: My camera is a Casio EX-S880. It also has an Anti-Shake setting which can be used in conjunction with most of the 37 "Best Shot" settings. The BS settings do things such as enhanced green tones, night photos, twilight photos and a host of other settings as well. Proves to be a good camera in all.

Dave

Ah you need to set ISO to 100 or 200 then. I would set it to shutter priority and play with the times depending on the amount of light. Just experiment but keep that ISO low and get a tripod!

Hi guys,

Thanks for your comments. In reply:

DBP: I agree that I need a tripod but haven't got one. My camera has a "BS" (Best Shot) thing to it which adjusts settings accordingly. There are 38 settings. My camera has ISO settings of either AUTO, 64, 100, 200, 400 or 800. I tend to keep it on AUTO as I have no idea what the ISO is for. Nice photos from you as well and I like the one with the wavy lines: how did you get that? Thanks also fro your recommendation of an ISO of 200.

jrw: My camera is a Casio EX-S880. It also has an Anti-Shake setting which can be used in conjunction with most of the 37 "Best Shot" settings. The BS settings do things such as enhanced green tones, night photos, twilight photos and a host of other settings as well. Proves to be a good camera in all.

Dave

Heres a cheap one that will do the job:

http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_1&products_id=105232

ISO is a reference to film photography. It refers to the amount of silver particles on the film. The less particles of silver = less noise and less light, but the more particales of silver = more noise and more light captured on the film. The number that follows the ISO is reffering to how many peices of of silver are on the film. Eg;- ISO 64 = 64 particles of silver.

Best for days ISO 64 -400.

Best for night ISO 800 and above.

With night photography the way I do it you really just want to take it nice and slow so really you want an ISO for the day pref 200 because with 64 you will have to wait much long to get a well lit shot. Now the way I do I use lights and hand made light tools to create the seen so I have a wide apeture and the seen normally takes 1minute to create. For this you will need setting "B" in shutter speeds and a shutter release cable. Since we are adjusting it all ourselfs you also need manual mode. I hope this all makes sence. If you would like any more advice feel free to ask.

As for the lights....

That is a wooden pole with eight LED lights on it. Al I had todo was walk around the car with it.

  • 4 weeks later...

ISO is a reference to film photography. It refers to the amount of silver particles on the film. The less particles of silver = less noise and less light, but the more particales of silver = more noise and more light captured on the film. The number that follows the ISO is reffering to how many peices of of silver are on the film. Eg;- ISO 64 = 64 particles of silver.

You haven't quite got that right. If anything the ISO number is related to the size of the silver crystals in the film emulsion not the number.

The speed of the film is determined by the size of the silver crystals - the smaller the crystals the finer the grain and the slower the film. Fast film has large crystals which when enlarged give the grainy appearance. Slow film has very fine crystals which give a much less grainy appearance to the enlarged print.

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