Jump to content

Engine rebuild - 1.8T vRS - ITS ALIVE!


OllieH

Recommended Posts

Don't worry it will be having a fair few easy miles, I don't drive it hard anyway but it will be extra careful. I want to make sure its all running sweet before I start doing anything else. Its certainly been an educating experience!

equally, don't be TOO gentle with it, a medium load and cylinder pressure helps push the rings out against the cylinder wall and helps the bedding process. It's excessive and/or constant rpm that needs avoiding. Varying but gently increasing rpm and medium load (but not labouring) is what is required for best bedding in. Also use a suitable oil for bedding in - ideally plain old mineral oil but you'll get away with semi synthetic, DON'T use decent synthetic oil as it won't wear enough and bed in properly.

On the race car we're lucky to get 20/30 minutes driving on the dyno in road simulation mode, at reduced boost and progressively increasing rpm, then straight into a mapping session :D lol That gives us good compression seal and low crankcase breather emissions..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest westallc

equally, don't be TOO gentle with it, a medium load and cylinder pressure helps push the rings out against the cylinder wall and helps the bedding process. It's excessive and/or constant rpm that needs avoiding. Varying but gently increasing rpm and medium load (but not labouring) is what is required for best bedding in. Also use a suitable oil for bedding in - ideally plain old mineral oil but you'll get away with semi synthetic, DON'T use decent synthetic oil as it won't wear enough and bed in properly.

On the race car we're lucky to get 20/30 minutes driving on the dyno in road simulation mode, at reduced boost and progressively increasing rpm, then straight into a mapping session :D lol That gives us good compression seal and low crankcase breather emissions..

+1 for the above statement

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys I will bare it all in mind, this is all new to me so any help is very appreciated :thumbup:

Just bought a Forge Diverter Valve to :) sneaking more and more things part my misses! :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The car is now back to its former glory and slightly better as it happens.

Had a little niggle in that a coil pack went after it was driven for the first time and then another one on my way home. I decided to replace them all although the others seem fine. As well as the engine rebuild and parts its also had a complete service and obviously the cambelt was changed at the same time. I wish I had known and I could have saved doing it at 48k! :wonder:

The total cost in the end has basically been about 2k :o but for that I still have the original engine and it is running better than ever. It runs sweet as a nut from cold and its very smooth, a lot more so than before. I am very impressed and more than satisfied with it.

The new head......

DSC02587.jpg

The new pistons......

IMAG0038.jpg

Yes it would have been easier to replace the complete engine and a dam sight cheaper but I like things doing right and it would have played on my mind otherwise. If you think about it in another sense 2k is a small amount to spend on what is a pretty mint car if I do say so myself :rofl:

It has been a hard and educational few weeks but I now have a good insight into the AUQ engine so perhaps this will help someone else in the future. A big thanks to the prompt replies I had which in turn helped me source the parts I needed.

There will be another oil change due very shortly.

:thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Presumably the other cam shield went on the inlet cam before it went back together? You will get a lot of oil going out of the breather otherwise

Yes mate it was :thumbup:

I would not get a vRS anywhere near my standards for 2k to be honest and mine is far too good to strip it would not have made sense and I have nether the time or the expertise. I am hoping to get some money back from the old parts as most are ok. I think buying a 2K vRS is all well in good in theory but you would have all the other bits to swap, brakes, suspension, cam belt etc. You could easily spend it again getting it right where as my car has done 53k. 10 by me and easy miles by the previous owner who had it from new. I do 70 miles a day and need a car I can rely on so it made sense in the end, it literally is like driving a new car and im chuffed to bits but equally gutted as 2k goes a long way in other areas. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Update...........

1200 miles later and all is well. The engine is smooth as ever, pulls very well and is returning 380-400 miles per tank. I took her for fresh oil and filter change today. The oil that came out was clean with no contaminates. I will resume to the schedule now which will be another cahnge in 4000 miles or so.

Santa brought me an early gift :giggle:FMCL007P-BLACK-2.jpg.w300h300.jpg

May also have to take a trip to shark racing for a map its just too good to miss!

Edited by OllieH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

glad all is well mate :thumbup:

but...............

shark performance are better and also have some cracking deals on :giggle:

My two worlds of my old DC2 Type R and my vRS come crashing together lol :rofl: Yes them too lol ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much does it cost to replace the engine? It's not on my to-do list but I'm interested to know.

Its around £1500 - £2000 to replace the engine by my reckoning (engine + ancillary parts + labour) and around the same for a rebuild but you have the trouble of sourcing the engine which is very hit and miss in terms of mileage and any underlying problems. I really wanted to keep the block at all costs so I would know the history and mileage and the engine was the same. It depends what's wrong with the car, I would not recommend doing it unless you really have to and be prepared to spend more than you planned.

Mine is absolutely spot on but I had a trusted mechanic and used all new parts bar the pistons which were sourced from a 225 Audi TT. Just bare in mind there can be unforeseen costs such as in my case I had to replace all the coil packs which are £35 a pop. For me its been worth it as I plan to keep the car for a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done in getting car back on the road.

Yes you could of got a older VRS for that but if yours is great nick , reliable and you are happy then that all the matters.

It was by far the best one that was on the market when I got it and still is superb condition. Still only done 54k so it was worth the investment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.