rear drums sticking

[horkin]

When I say speed were talking 30mph max, and very gently bringing up the handle just so you can feel it apply, then let it off. Repeated a few times. I had no intention of creating a rear wheel lock up! just enough to bed the linings against the drum. Tonight again its all back to normal still. Might add it wasn't on enough to even illuminate the dash warning light.

No offence meant mate So glad to hear it has cleared up. I just thought it worth mentioning the danger of using the handbrake at speed just in case anyone wasn't aware, don't mean to be patronising to anyone who knows this but it can be so dangerous. Actually there was a cop killed a couple of years back when the prisoner he was carrying in the back of his Focus reached over and yanked the handbrake and around 60 MPH Ugh!!

[Tojo]

:wonder: glad to see it's not just mine!

My 08 plate Fabia Greenline estate suffers from binding handbrake when parked overnight. If left for two days without use it siezes rock solid and has to be rocked off the handbrake by use of 'gentle forward and reverse gear use under throttle'. Car is going in under warranty for a third time for this fault. As I told the dealer, I have had more cars than you can shake a stick at and I've never had this problem with other cars (including a previous Skoda Felicia)

[seboni121]

:wonder: glad to see it's not just mine!

My 08 plate Fabia Greenline estate suffers from binding handbrake when parked overnight. If left for two days without use it siezes rock solid and has to be rocked off the handbrake by use of 'gentle forward and reverse gear use under throttle'. Car is going in under warranty for a third time for this fault. As I told the dealer, I have had more cars than you can shake a stick at and I've never had this problem with other cars (including a previous Skoda Felicia)

Hi unfortunately it a general fault in all the fabias the stealer told me so ,however seems the back of mine is very squeeky like the shocks need lub,when you force the car down on its shocks at the back makes and awful noise what could this be shocks ? suspension? should I remove the wheels at the back and get some heavy duty grease in there or just get the stealer to take a look,it happens when we get out the car and suspension raises up squeeks badly what is it!!

Edited 18 October, 2011 by seboni121

[pipsyp]

Same exact thing happens with the wifes 08 Polo if it hasnt been driven for a couple of days, or is damp/cold. Think its a pretty common thing. Certainly doesnt affect the breaking performance.....you had to throw an anchor out of it to stop it from new anyway haha

[horkin]

Mine occasionally 'pings off' when it's been stood. Never thought it worth mentioning as it is common with drum brakes generally and does not only apply to Skodas. You soon get the knack of 'rocking' it loose and then a quick use of the brake and handbrake while in SLOW motion and all usually reverts to normal. Ignore it unless the wheels lock big time I say!!

Edited 16 February, 2011 by horkin

[FabiaGreenline]

Well to report, since I started this thread mine still plays up. Not as bad as it used to be, but still annoying. I find moving forward slightly before attempting reverse in the mornings seems to be the best way of unsticking the blighters. I would be interested to know how many people have had this work done free of charge under warranty at which dealers so I can be armed to pin mine down on it, as my last enquiry I was told it would be at my expense.

[TorqueXIsXCheap]

My old mk2 was the same, used to stick all the time then they began to catch so used to squeek all the time. My garage had nothing to do with it and wanted to charge me for looking at them, even tho the car was under warranty, however a local garage who fitted me some uniroyals said they would have a look for me, they did a great job and didnt charge me a penny. But just before I got rid of it for my mk1 they started squeeking again. There not the best rear brakes in the world, I dont usually mind drums but those were useless in my experince :'(

[Fab Fab]

Had the same problem with my Fab - one morning it was so solid that the other half had to get Skoda Assist out to free the wheels. The problem we have is that the car is parked on a drive that slopes down towards the front of the house, so not much room to rock them free! DM Keiths in Leeds also flatly refused to even look at them as a warranty item, despite my argument that it had never happened in 10 years of owning a shonky Astra...

[Sheffmax]

Had the same problem with my Fab - one morning it was so solid that the other half had to get Skoda Assist out to free the wheels. The problem we have is that the car is parked on a drive that slopes down towards the front of the house, so not much room to rock them free! DM Keiths in Leeds also flatly refused to even look at them as a warranty item, despite my argument that it had never happened in 10 years of owning a shonky Astra...

I had Skoda Assist come out this week as my off-side rear drum had seized and despite much rocking wouldn't free itself. The RAC man who turned up took a hammer and cold chisel to the rear wheel and gave the drum a tap. This did the trick and I'll use this method if it happens again.

[SlowBloke]

Having read this thread with interest - the imminent arrival of cold weather making it relevant again - I thought I would add a couple of thoughts.

If the weather turns cold and wet, consider leaving the car in first or reverse gear and leaving the handbrake off when parking at night. If the brake shoes are damp and then freeze they will often stick on making it difficult to drive away in the morning. If doing this, be careful when driving away in the morning - don't accidentally knock it out of gear and roll into the next car. My last car was an old Saab whick locked the car in reverse when removing the ignition key. So the handbrake was rarely used when parking.

I don't know if it is difficult to remove the drums. I did it on an old Polo a few years ago and it required dismantling the bearings but it wasn't hard or complicated. Cleaning out the brake drums has to be one of the easier jobs on a car. Just some paraffin or white spirit and a paintbrush to wash away the dust and any grease, check for wear on shoes and linkages and re-assemble.

Rusty Disks!!

Just remember when you put alloy wheels on mild steel or cast iron hubs and disks that the steel/iron will rust faster. Any mix of different metals acts like a battery and one of the metals will corrode faster. If you fit a stainless steel exhaust, the mild steel clamps will need replacing after 18 months as they have corroded to the point of failing.

If you suspect sticking brakes (front or rear) find a quiet level street or car park. With the car stationary, press the brake pedal hard for a second and then drive forward slowly. Let the car coast to a stop from about 2mph. If the car stops with even a slight jerk, one of the brake is sticking. Repeat the process but use the handbrake firmly first.

I find that disk callipers need an application of red brake grease every 2-3 years to maintain their freedom from sticking. You can still buy red grease in a small tub for a few pounds. Clean out under the piston outer weather seal with a few cotton buds. The old grease will have turned hard and brown. Use a little WD40 as a solvent if the grease is too hard to remove effectively. Then use a small syringe (can be bought from most chemists for pennies) to inject a little new red grease around the piston under the weather seal. The result will be a calliper which won't stick on and the car can be driven through water with less chance of corrosion of the pistons.

SB

[GeneralPurpose]

Slowbloke, Great post, that's all good advice. The rear drums on the Fabia come off real easy. Just one screw and just ease it off. A light tap with a rubber mallet can help if it's stubbon.

Only other thing I would stress is concerning the 'Red grease'. To anyone who is not familiar with Red Grease, just make sure it's the Red Silcone Brake grease, and NOT mineral red grease (which does exist). Brake failure will follow quite quickly if you get that wrong as the mineral grease will melt over time and come into contact with the piston seals causing seal failure.

[Leon-y-k]

Speaking of sticking breaks I was driving back from the gym tonight, I put it in reverse and I heard a slight clonk like the rear drums released....? I'm guessing that's the same issue?

[VWD]

Right ,mate - mine is a 2004 TDI which for last MOT suffered rear drum lock on one wheel . Tapped the drum off to find a seized up rivet on the handbrake link -cure something like W 40 SPARINGLY applied to the link an a lot of movement to free up the link . With alloys , I apply a grease to the drums ,but carry a mallet ot big hammer to get rears off .

There are several ideas on how to release the adjuster , but I found a big hammer did the job,n for re assambly -leave the juster out ,and tape springs to the handbrke arms, fitting the adjuster once the rear brakes are assemled .

Edited 5 December, 2011 by VWD

[zach1301]

Haven't driven mine for over 24 hours and just had a look. Some minor water marks, slightest surface rust but not bad. I've had cars whos discs have been red rusty just standing over night. My Mazda 3 was prone to this. It's not really a probnlem as it is normal surface rust. I suppose the composition of the metals vary between manufacturers and therefore the discs react in different ways. It would however be a problem if the car was stood for months and the rust allowed to corrode the disc. Lets face it, any normal ferrous metal will rust if left exposed.

on my monte the discs get rusty just from washing the car! spoils the look of a cleaming glossy paint job ha

[sr.fabia]

I had Skoda Assist come out this week as my off-side rear drum had seized and despite much rocking wouldn't free itself. The RAC man who turned up took a hammer and cold chisel to the rear wheel and gave the drum a tap. This did the trick and I'll use this method if it happens again.

I often get sticking rear drum brakes if the weather is damp and the car's been on the drive all night.  Just got back today from a week away having left the Skoda on the drive all week and couldn't get it to release - the offside rear was just dragging (wet driveway...) Went straight to this forum and searched, found this thread and the above quoted post - thanks sheffmax!

A few taps with a big hammer and a blunt cold chisel released it easily. - I would say though - you do this with the handbrake off, so if you're parked on a slope, put a chock behind another wheel! When I freed mine it started rolling -D'oh! - I just used the lump hammer in my hand to chock it before it had rolled six inches!

Have now taken it for a run and gently applied the handbrake while moving to clean it up, and will get drums off for a clean out when the weather dries up.

[Noggythenog]

I dont tend to have problems with brakes, but i use them hard & that seems to do the trick, a use it or lose it ethis.oh plus i always leave the car in gear & maybe sometimes only use a little bit of handbrake after letting the car settle into the gear when parked up.

I think the british mentality is still to be very mechanically sympathetic or economical on parts to the detriment of other parts but this doesnt always workout in the end & ive heard that the Germans in particular have a different culture towards driving their cars like they stole them from day 1 & apparently they dont get half the problems us brits do.

I did some roadcraft once & i was using the gearbox lots to slow down which the instructor gave me a ticking off about, i declared that i was saving the brakes to which he sensibly replied - what is more expensive to replace - some brake pads & discs, or a new gearbox!.

Anyway i suppose im just saying that dont feather the brakes for long periods, use them hard for short periods, they are designed to brake & break!.eventually they will need replacing whether we like it or not.

[xman]

The problem with the Fabia drums is there is nowhere for the brake dust to go. It stays in the drum and mixes with water and any brake fluid weeping and gunges everything up until things stop working or break. The retained water also help rust the inside face of the drum causing linings to stick to the drum when parked for a long time. In winter they ice up.

 

Only solution is to strip the drum off and clean thoroughly - some dealers may still do this "maintenance" on a major service but I know many dont as it takes a long(ish) time to do.

[GeneralPurpose]

Yes the tendency is to take the rear wheels off when it's needed ie: when the brakes start to stick or to check the hydraulics or there is some other issue. It costs around £15 per wheel and they clean out the drums and backplates, regrease the adjusters and make sure everything is setup correctly. Gone are the days when wheels were taken off every year or two for a check. Having said that, most don't get any problems with this sticking problem.

[Fab Estate]

Yes the tendency is to take the rear wheels off when it's needed ie: when the brakes start to stick or to check the hydraulics or there is some other issue. It costs around £15 per wheel and they clean out the drums and backplates, regrease the adjusters and make sure everything is setup correctly. Gone are the days when wheels were taken off every year or two for a check. Having said that, most don't get any problems with this sticking problem.

I had the rear drum seized a couple of months ago but a sharp tap soon released them. Why do cars still have drum brakes?