I can get 2 mates from clubeskoda.com to come here and say that they had issues when putting non can-bus on their lights. ( 2010 models)

Both had to get new light control system.

One was on the main beam.

The second mate put a kit on the foglights. hours later he had troubles ( corner light always coming on was the cause)

They may have backfired someway,( that´s why plenty people had blown wiper motors VW, Audi,Skoda, SEAT)

This made the right front blinker always stay on, the yellow bulb was always on. Onced measured it was always receiving 12v.

At Skoda dealer after testing the result was the same, new lighting control and solved the problem.

I will await Hauptman's reply to this as I have a 2010 FL modle and am about to fit a set of non Canbus to mine... I dont want any mishaps

I will await Hauptman's reply to this as I have a 2010 FL modle and am about to fit a set of non Canbus to mine... I dont want any mishaps

+1,

I was thinking alberg was refering to CANbus friendly reading the post, (not non CANbus) but I'm not sure, I can't see how if you set the controller as it would be with OE xenons it can cause damage, however I can see the how fitting warning cacellors can! Having said that there are a lot of members with CANbus friendly who have had no problems!

Why ?? I cannot explain, but it does happen.

I ask to all briskodians, Who has Hid Kits Can-Bus and their 2009/2010/2011 model??? Who has NON Can-Bus on their´s???

The error cancellors you talk about are extentions to de kit, yes.

Here´s a couple pictures of mine.

As you can see it´s only the Can-Bus ballast I have , no cable cancellors between ballast and the bulb.( ballast + cable cancellors + bulb)

Since the back is rubber, I did this to pass the cables

Can see here all inside. The bulb is metal plated that goes agaist the housing. If they are plastic you must scrape off just a tiny bit ( usually the 3 position bits , just clean them)

If the rubber back piece pops off, just make a small cut towards the middle ( 1cm), always put cut to the bottom for the water not to enter.

Edited 23 January, 201115 yr by alberg

Iv'e just removed the capacitors/bulb warnig device from my 50w Hid kit (which simply conects inbetween the kit) and using vagcom uninstalled the cold start device from the low beam, Iv'e got no warnings on the dash so far and to be honest the Hids seem to fire up cleaner on there initial fire up from cold. The reason iv'e removed them is the comments on this topic, And also been speaking to a auto electician who fits various expensive none gen equipment on top end cars, He totaly agrees with the comments made by Hauptmann, The initial load is immense this is what a capacitor does and he would be concerned about fitting a Hid kit with a capacitor like these wired in the system. He tested my capacitor which i have now removed and he said i have been lucky no to have damaged my controller,(massive initial load untill it settled down) He did go into a lot of technical mumbo jumbo to which i didnt understand but he says you are far better to fit a none bulb warning Hid kit and simply code the cold start out. This is from a chap who does this type of job day in day out. So be warned i certainly didnt want to take that chance iv'e obviously been lucky for the last year or so. Phil. P.S thanks to the people who has sent me advise on this topic.

I talking about the lastest models, have no knowledge about earlier one.

Like has been said, A good Kit is needed.

I just went out and checked that the cold load is only for the rear plate lights ( not activated ) via vag-com

I also unticked the Load management and undid the bulb trick for my reverse lights , it showed bulb error for the reverse light.

No cold load for main beam that I can see.

I talking about the lastest models, have no knowledge about earlier one.

Like has been said, A good Kit is needed.

I just went out and checked that the cold load is only for the rear plate lights ( not activated ) via vag-com

I also unticked the Load management and undid the bulb trick for my reverse lights , it showed bulb error for the reverse light.

No cold load for main beam that I can see.

On uk models there is a cold start diagnosis for low beam which needs turning off if you are using Hids without bulb warning eliminators.

Video CH/LH on foglights

http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image=videonmg19.mp4

Edited 23 January, 201115 yr by alberg

I can't quite follow all of the comments on this thread.

Obviously it may be possible that some people have had problems/damage, but without knowing what was installed, how it was installed and if coding was done then its difficult to say how this can have arisen.

If decent quality kit is installed and coding done then there should not be a problem. The HID kits work on 12V (actually 13.8V) and cannot inject higher voltages back into the cars electrical system and 'fry' other components. Excessive current demands CAN damage ECUs/controllers (e.g.by short-circuiting the wires). And of course any component that you add can potentially generate EMI (Electromagnetic Interference - 'noise') which could cause interference with the radio and some other components on the car.

The modern ballasts are pretty well screened against EMI and their start-up current is quite modest (e.g. 7.5A on a cold start and 4.5A on a hot start). The current rises rises to this peak value as the HID is turned on and then decays down to around 3A (for 35W units) after about 30s as the lights reach full intensity. This sort of current is well within the design limits of the car electrical system.

Potentially you could have a faulty ballast which goes short-circuit, this could cause all manner of problems - but that's the same as with any other electrical item that you install.

The Octavias seem to be relatively robust though, and I have yet to hear of anyone who has had problems arising from a properly fitted HID kit. I would be interested to hear if there are any problems out there and if anyone has had a blown controller. I did a search and didn't come up with anything.

I know that there is a big problem with Audi A3's blowing the wiper motor when an HID kit is fitted. This happened to a lot of owners. IIRC the issue was traced to the wiper motor and headlamp sharing an earthing point and under some circumstances the earth current from the HID unit was passing through the wiper motor. Having said that, it seems that lots of A3 owners had problems with blown wiper motors even though no HID kit was fitted - so this may be design issue with the wiring of that particular car.

On the FL controllers there is no seperate tick-box for Cold Diagnostics. When 'Xenons' are selected the cold diagnostics are automatically turned off (which is logical..).

HTH.

Thanks for sorting that out Hauptman

Eases my mind a bit

Alberg, you say your friends fitted new lights on their high beam and another fitted them on fog lights, what sort of kit were they HID or LED?

Could there be an issue with LEDs being fitted also or would the current be too low?

Edited 23 January, 201115 yr by martziniuk

Another big thanks to Hauptmann, i got worried when i read a previous post regarding none canbus Hids especially after removing my canceller/capacitor today and coding my cold start on low beam off to eliminate the poss bulb warning display. I am going with Hauptmann and the auto electrician ive been speaking to especialy when they have both said exactly the same things with ref to the canceller/capacitor. Many thanks Phil

Hi Hauptman, you are wright on what you have said it´s logical. My has a max voltage peak of 6.5V.

Even though in theory nothing should happen in fact it does.

Tons of people here in Portugal, Hid kits are on the road on every 1/50 cars, can tell you that you must put CAN-Bus kits on newer models. Even shops that put and sell tell you that.

Even with CAn-Bus systems cars like Audi and others can be sensible.

Earlier hid kits ( even some now for sale) have high voltage peaks.

On both fellow skoda owners, one I seen and tried to see what was going on with the vag-com cable, they both put NON CAN-BUS KITS ( cheapo I must say )

And what happened on both was that the front right blinker on main mean turned on and always stayed on even with the car turned off. It did not blink, it was just static.

The solution was to take the bulb out.

One was a NON CAN-BUS Kit on his main beam(H7) the other fellow, the one I seen, put a NON CAN-BUS Kit on the foglights ( H8)

A few hours later the blown bulb showed up and voilá, the same disaster occured.

Both were before week 22 changes of 2010, one Sportline and one Elegance model.

Both had their ECU for the lighting system switched and everything OK.

Of course they took out the HID KITS before.

The main beam guy latest report that he put a CAN-BUS Kit and everything seems fine.

Hauptman I understand what you are saying, but sometimes the reality is and experiences from people from various forums tell it diferent.

It´s too of a coincidense that people who own AUDI,VW,SKODA and SEAT had the same issues regarding HID KITS.

Once again the knowledge I Have are from the latest models, facelift from 2009

Edited 23 January, 201115 yr by alberg

On the FL controllers there is no seperate tick-box for Cold Diagnostics. When 'Xenons' are selected the cold diagnostics are automatically turned off (which is logical..).

HTH.

This option does not exist on VAG-COM ,10.6 software, on my 2010 model.

Maybe for Portugal does not exist :wonder:

Alberg,

Can you please post the VCDS settings for using fog lights as CH/LH lights? In the last couple of weeks, I have tried to do this on both pre-FL and FL models, and cannot find the settings anywhere. All I can activate is CH?LH lights via dipped beam headlights.

Thank you

Mike

BYTE-17

BIT-3 Tick the box

See this video from a friend