To cut a longer story very short. SAI was noisy and rubber mountings had broke. Bought a new pump, but for a reason unknown the connectors didn't sit right, so decided to scrap the lot. Removed hoses last week and today combi valve and pump went too. Fitted forge blanking plate (£20 ouch :S ). Then blocked the small pipe from the combi with a screw. Guides were very very helpful.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3111538

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/155472-sai-n249-and-n112-removal/page__pid__1985416__st__0entry1985416

http://www.pimpmyskoda.co.uk/V2Images/ModsEngine/AirSystemRemoval.htm

I have a question though that i hope someone here will be able to clarify. I have unplugged both the N249 and N112, but have not bypassed or removed these yet. Should i reconnect one or both or can they both stay unplugged? Not bothered about the EML light, as that's on anyway having removed the SAI and combi valve (to be mapped out later).

Also just to highlight what is already mentioned on some of the guides, the bracket holding the pipes to the combi value is a pain to remove, with two hard to get to plastic clips that need to be levered away. Also i lost 650ml of coolant when removing the combi valve. Not a great difference to 500ml in the guide, but good to know in case you end up being a bit short of coolant like i was.

N249 and N112 to be remove at a later stage.

My SAI has been disconnected but we left the pump in place as its a pain to remove. I have yet to fit a resistor but I was told I may not get a CEL light for this anyway so might not bother.

I'd suggest bypassing the N249 and see if it makes your car smoother, if it doesn't then you can always reconnect. Mine has been totally ripped out with no ill effects

Pump isn't too bad to remove, but the bracket is.

Cannot bypass N249 yet as i do not have any extra length hose to link dv direct to manifold, so have ordered some.

I'll probably rip the lot out including the hard pipes that run along side the engine bay. Did you lose these too?

From what I've read on the Vortex, you need to have them connected or bypassed with a resistor or the engine management stops auto-adjusting a load of stuff.

yes u need resistors even if u had the deletes done in your software and removed the physical parts. with out resistors your car will not adapt the fuel trims and such properly.

From this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete

I can recommend the N249 bypass...made my car smoother. For the sake of a £1.27 T piece and some silicone hose I had already it was 10mins well spent!! :-)

From what I've read on the Vortex, you need to have them connected or bypassed with a resistor or the engine management stops auto-adjusting a load of stuff.

From this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete

That's interesting Rob, what resistors are you on about? The SAI or N249?

That's interesting Rob, what resistors are you on about? The SAI or N249?

As I understand it - N112, N249, and Evap too I think.

As I understand it - N112, N249, and Evap too I think.

Ah I see, mine are all connected but all the pipework has gone. It seems hit or miss as to whether you get a CEL for the SAI.

From what I've read on the Vortex, you need to have them connected or bypassed with a resistor or the engine management stops auto-adjusting a load of stuff.

From this thread:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4893472-DIY-Ultimate-SAI-N249-PCV-EVAP-Delete

Thanks much appreciated. It would be good to verify the point about the resistors. I had the impression this was more related to the CEL lights, but if it stops auto adjustments being made by the engine, then i will have to get some for when i rip the lot out.

I've reconnected the N249 just in case, but not N112.

The CEL light for the SAI will prob come on after so many starts (like mine did) 5 days after i replaced the pump. :no:

Edited 4 February, 201115 yr by Shroud

The CEL light for the SAI will prob come on after so many starts (like mine did) 5 days after i replaced the pump. :no:

This is what I thought. R-tech reckoned it may not come on at all. I've got a fault reader so will just keep resetting it if it comes on. If it does then I will fit the resistor.

This is what I thought. R-tech reckoned it may not come on at all. I've got a fault reader so will just keep resetting it if it comes on. If it does then I will fit the resistor.

That's what I have to do every so often

That's what I have to do every so often

The problem with resetting the cell is that the car will keep going through a learning process.

I can't be bothered with that and just leave the cell on. If i did reset it would be every other 5 days or so..

I have completly removed the SAI, N249 and N112 and put resistors in place. Still does not stop the cell coming on for the SAI not being present.

Shark performance i believe can MAP the SAI cell out. Not much use to me with a REVO remap though, who won't map it out.

I dnt get a CEL for the SAI, and my n249, n112 are still plugged in and I dnt get one for those either 

I dnt get a CEL for the SAI, and my n249, n112 are still plugged in and I dnt get one for those either 

I would keep that quite Si, as your SAI might hear it and force itself on....

It is very common to get the cell so you are a lucky one..

Perhaps as you have a shark performance Map it may already be taking care of the cell??

Edited 5 February, 201115 yr by Bowders1

Tbh I don't think I ever got it before the map. But I think Ben did make sure It didn't raise it's ugly head in the future

Shark map due in the next week or so, so hope to have SAI, N249 and related codes mapped out at the same time.

Still not sure about the resistors though. Necessary or not?

According to the Vortex guys you still need the resistors as you're only mapping out the CEL to stop the light coming on.

According to the Vortex guys you still need the resistors as you're only mapping out the CEL to stop the light coming on.

Do you know where this statement was made?

The guides i have read don't seem to make any reference to using resistors other than for prevent CEL lights coming on. Currently my SAI and N112 connectors are disconnected without resistors and the car is running well.

I don't mind getting them and wiring them up, but don't want to waste time on it if it isn't necessary.

It's mentioned in the thread I linked above and in several other deletion threads.I don't know that much about it - but there are some seriously knowledgable guys on there!

The problem with resetting the cell is that the car will keep going through a learning process.

I can't be bothered with that and just leave the cell on. If i did reset it would be every other 5 days or so..

I have completly removed the SAI, N249 and N112 and put resistors in place. Still does not stop the cell coming on for the SAI not being present.

Shark performance i believe can MAP the SAI cell out. Not much use to me with a REVO remap though, who won't map it out.

Mine comes on every couple or three weeks and I have a fault code reader under the dash so it's no problem.

I usually reset the light before the choke has cut out

I know R-Tech will map it out for me, I've just got to get up there

It's mentioned in the thread I linked above and in several other deletion threads.I don't know that much about it - but there are some seriously knowledgable guys on there!

Thanks i see the post now. I'll get some anyway, but see how the car runs without first so i can compare before and after.

They also indicate that a 1/2w 330 ohm resistor is adequate rather than a 10w :wonder:

Edited 5 February, 201115 yr by Shroud

Job completed this weekend N112 and N249 are history. All straight forward and car runs well and better that it has at any other time. Not performance wise, but just smoother and quieter. Cleared the codes using the STS unit, so hopefully they will not return. Decided to resistor both the N112 and N249 using the much used 10w 330ohm resistor.

The engine bay has just got so much room now.