This may be a stupid question but as most of the modifications on the hybrid turbo cars come from higher powered VAG vehicles do they still retain high reliability?

I would expect that the more you push the cars the more chance that things will break this is the same with any car. If you had a PD150/hybrid turbo with all basic supporting mod's and ran a safe map that did not push the set up do you guys think that the car would be classed as un-reliable?

My current project car is so far from standard I would not call it reliable at all! It's not had any problems so far (apart from a bad I've heat where the turbo's boiled the coolant and over filled the expansion bottle! Lol) but I keep my eyes on all my gauges while driving + keep my RAC cover up to date!!! Lol.

Dunno about all of that mate,

I'm far far far from an expert on such things.

What I do know is that I seriously want you to buy a Furby vRS

if it's going to be anything like that hoopy Nissan of yours mate!!!

The only real limit is your budget

Devonutopia is running a highly tuned PD100 as a daily driver.

As long as things are done correctly I can't see why it

would any more or less reliable as any highly tuned car.

I for one hope you take the plunge, have you driven one yet?

They don't handle great without a fair few quid thrown at them

even then you can't really make the engine lighter and thats

what makes it a bit lardy through the twisty stuff.

I hope to go some way to improving how mine handles this year.

If your budget allows, try and find one with ESP rather than ASR

it's far less intrusive and will make the car a little safer when

it's been whizzed up. Mine has saved my butt 3 times during the recent

snow and ice, with ASR I would have been in the ditch.

I wouldn't be without my cruise control either, but it can be added to

most vRS Fabias (but not all) for around 180quid. I turned down several good cars

because at the time I didn't know this and HAD to find one with cruise.

(Sooooo handy in the 40 and 50 mph roadworks with average cameras that you see now)

And if you're really lucky one with xenons might come up with all the above.

Those are the best of the factory upgrades IMO.

If the mods are done properly and compliment each other, and the mapping is within the safe limits of the components fitted, there's no reason why it can't be every bit as reliable as a stock example. It's when people change just one thing, and don't uprate other items that problems usually start occurring.

As for options, I'd say my last Fabia (of three) was my finest choice - with xenons, cruise and heated seats. All spot on and very useful in their own way

Happy hunting

My fabia runs a hybrid turbo@ 1.8 bar and has been perfect for over year, I truly think mechanical sympathy is key,

I hear of tyres lasting 5k and this speaks volumes for driving styles abuse of cars.

I run a standard smic, original clutch and a brilliant Richard washbrook map and the car flies (really) and can still manage 60 mpg on a decent run

Matt

My fabia clocked around 50k at hybrid status

Tbh the uprated parts will outlast standard muck

Only problem I've had is...

MAF going out of range (cured with R32 MAF)

Boost leaks (still work in progress)

Engine light came on tonight (need to get it scanned to see WTF is going on)

It's just as reliable as before though really. Just ironing the issues out.

So far so good then guys. I'm glad your not all saying "yeah there quick but at 230-240bhp you run the risk of bendin con rods/crackin pistons etc"

I think if the own turbo was to fail then it's a huge no brainer to swap in a PD150 hybrid.

Any one have any dyno/boost graphs to see the differenc in spool time the large turbo has ? I don't fancy a turbo that's hit full boost by 3k and then you've only got 1.5k rpm power band! Lol.

I've put nearly 6k on mine since it the Hybrid went on at Christmas (its my daily driver and I do a lot of miles to get to/from work) and its been perfect since it came back. I'm not pushing everything to tolerances with my map precisely because I don't want and can't afford any issues. I drive hard but I still get over 50mpg and my front tyres have done over 10k without any signs of wear.

I'd suggest that sticking with the standard KKK is a bigger risk if aggressively remapping than getting a Hybrid bolted on and being sensible. If planning on staying mostly standard my shopping list would be:

BLT Engine

Xenons

Everything else can be sorted if you get the right car. If you're planning on getting the Turbo done I'd go for something older and save some cash. Only thing I regret about mine is that it doesn't come with Xenons, every car I've had since 1999 has had Xenons except this one. :'(

Thanks for te depots guys. With me being a skids n00b can some one explain what a BLT engine is? Also the two types of traction control? I have ESP on my 350z but asr I've not heard off?

One last thing. Would you guys take a older 2003/4 car with 65k on or a 200/6 with 75-80k on??

whatever one had the best service history and general condition /\

People are running stock internals at 250+ bhp so they are fairly sound. As everyone had said, as long as the mods are done properly and it's driven carefully (warm up, cool down etc) then it'll be fine.

Another thing I'd say, since your in the position, make sure you buy the best you can, cherished looked after cars will take the extra power better than pre modded, ragged examples.

Matt

Yeah I know where your coming from. The thing is a pre modded car may have been driven like my 350z, the car gets every thing it wants, oil and filter every 3k miles and gearbox, diff fluids 6k miles and is always warm 88 degrees coolant, 75 degrees oil before I rev over 3k rpm. The turbo timer is set for a 30sec idle after the keys are out too just to cool the turbo bearings that bit extra.

So if some one was to buy my car (not that I would ever sell!! Lol) the car is treated better than any other car I know off! I have seen a black 2005 car with a hybrid turbo and intercooler for 5k but I'm not sure on if I want a pre modded example or not?

I see where people are coming from with regards to miles. I think a cr like an 06 with 80k will have done most miles on the motorway in 6th where as a 2003/4 car with 60k my have been driving round town and made lots of short runs that have not had the motor fully warm.

Decisions decisions....... Lol.

My fabia runs a hybrid turbo@ 1.8 bar and has been perfect for over year, I truly think mechanical sympathy is key,

I hear of tyres lasting 5k and this speaks volumes for driving styles abuse of cars.

I run a standard smic, original clutch and a brilliant Richard washbrook map and the car flies (really) and can still manage 60 mpg on a decent run

Matt

LOL. Ive mullered a set in well under 5,000 miles. I abuse my car. What figures you have that are performance related please?

Tspark remind me not to buy your car! Lol.

Thanks for te depots guys. With me being a skids n00b can some one explain what a BLT engine is? Also the two types of traction control? I have ESP on my 350z but asr I've not heard off?

RE: ASR/ESP, read THIS and all will become clear

Being far from an expert here's my understanding of the different engine codes...

ASZ is the engine code for earlier vRS Fabias, BLT is a slightly later version of the earlier

ASZ 1.9 TDI lump with some modifications to suit Euro 4 emissions regulations.

They are generally slightly more powerful as standard (circa 150bhp) although it is a published 130bhp.

They can suffer with a stutter because of the emission modifications but the fix is straight forward enough.

There's lots on here about it. Search Fabia 1 for "stutter" and you'll be

reading threads about it until midnight

I'd imagine the older one of the two cars you mentioned will be an ASZ and the newer a BLT.

HTH

Mine's still been quite reliable. The only thing that has broke spectacularly has been the hybrid turbo (on the Ring) but generally the core engine is really reliable even at big power. Can cope with over 200hp easy. You just need to be aware of tolerances of the clutch, brakes, side mount intercooler, etc and tune your car around that.

RE: ASR/ESP, read THIS and all will become clear

Being far from an expert here's my understanding of the different engine codes...

ASZ is the engine code for earlier vRS Fabias, BLT is a slightly later version of the earlier

ASZ 1.9 TDI lump with some modifications to suit Euro 4 emissions regulations.

They are generally slightly more powerful as standard (circa 150bhp) although it is a published 130bhp.

They can suffer with a stutter because of the emission modifications but the fix is straight forward enough.

There's lots on here about it. Search Fabia 1 for "stutter" and you'll be

reading threads about it until midnight

I'd imagine the older one of the two cars you mentioned will be an ASZ and the newer a BLT.

HTH

Thanks for the link mate. So ASR is crude traction where as ESP is the full stability control. I need to look out for this then. To be fair I think I would be driving with the ASR or ESP OFF most of the time as that just kills any potential fun! lol..I cant really drive the 350z with the traction ON as it cuts in so hard when you go full throttle it could CAUSE you to crash!

The early ASZ motor sounds the better option as it does not suffer from the stutter and will remap to the same power....

Sorry t spark, not entirely sure what your asking, do you bhp torque etc

Can't quote from my phone

Matt

The early ASZ motor sounds the better option as it does not suffer from the stutter and will remap to the same power....

On the other hand, the stutter can be fixed, and you'd have a newer vehicle... Goes to show you have to judge each car on it's individual merits! In other words...

whatever one had the best service history and general condition /\

Edited 20 February, 201115 yr by Leodhasach

Tspark remind me not to buy your car! Lol.

Its not for sale :p

Why sell something thats faster than any other car with the same set up, or even ones with me

Sorry t spark, not entirely sure what your asking, do you bhp torque etc

Can't quote from my phone

Matt

Well yeah a graph, and if you have ran it say down the 1/4? Or 0-60 strip or any tracks? Really interested to see how much of the turbo your wasting due to the standard clutch and side mount.

No figures or graphs but it pulls much better and longer than previous map which made 168bhp and 290lbs torque, no idea what new bhp is but unit 18 predict about 185-190 bhp.

Maybe I am wasting a few horses but at the cost of1k clutch and 600 for a fmic I'm not worried. I replaced the turbo due to failure not for figure chasing

I currently have a pd150 turbo on a standard map and there is more lag. tge normal turbo starts to boost around 1.8k while the 150 starts at around 2.1k

I am also selling my car at the . . .

Ive got a 2005 Fabia VRS which i had mapped from 350 miles.

Its now got a stage 3 turbo with all the gubbins and the only issue i had was a duff battery. Its done 51K and feels as it did in the begining.

to be honest I had more issues with standard parts (KKK turbo began to fail after 6 months). I use the car as a daily runner getting over 50 mpg on a normal run. I do however let the engine warm up prior to any heavy driving and as my road is covered with speed humps, take it easy over the last 1/2 mile and always do regular oil and filter changes.

If you dont look after it right it wont work right!

i'd had no probs with mine..only done bout 1000 miles since done...rarely do i drive it very hard but gearbox started making funny noises ...just cost 600 to have it re con...