just fitted my yeti towbar today had factory towbar preperation (inculeds bummber cut out,wiring to rear, uprating of yeti computer for towing)

the fitting took 3 hours fidlly part was removing rear pannels ect ,the factory prep plug are behind rear nearside pannel the wirering kit EEA630002E4 is easy to fit it is a pre wired unit that simply plugs together and one earth connection, towbar was from skoda and with kit and towbar removerble swan neck type and addapter eu type to uk type was£360

the other kit you can get is EEA630001E4 whitch has etra wiring that runs to dash area and needs wiring into fuse box.

just fitted my yeti towbar today had factory towbar preperation (inculeds bummber cut out,wiring to rear, uprating of yeti computer for towing)

the fitting took 3 hours fidlly part was removing rear pannels ect ,the factory prep plug are behind rear nearside pannel the wirering kit EEA630002E4 is easy to fit it is a pre wired unit that simply plugs together and one earth connection, towbar was from skoda and with kit and towbar removerble swan neck type and addapter eu type to uk type was£360

the other kit you can get is EEA630001E4 whitch has etra wiring that runs to dash area and needs wiring into fuse box.

Hi Mick.

Well done! Glad to hear that you achieved the removal of the rear panels OK. Can you tell me of any tips etc? I need access to the rear of these panels for a project that I am trying – Modifying the wiring to provide the second fog lamp via a small transistorised circuit that will not affect the CAN-bus.

What other “standard†wiring did you find? In particular, I am looking for an Ignition controlled supply or in the absence of that, a permanent supply such as the Power Socket on the offside panel. Can you offer any tips /advice? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

THE GREAT YETI

I thought you also need to tell the ecu there is a towbar fitted as it affect the ESP, rear sensors, light fault detectors etc? This will need doing by a skoda dealer as well.

Which panels do you need to remove ?

For the wiring, I removed the centre rear panel, the left panel, and the B pillar panel.

Which panels do you need to remove ?

For the wiring, I removed the centre rear panel, the left panel, and the B pillar panel.

Hi "a65rocket" Many thanks for the quick response

I need access to the back of either (or both) of the rear panels in the boot area. [As in the panel that houses the rear power socket.] I have had a look at the problem and it is not readily apparent how or what to remove to gain access. The Yeti is so well put together I am reluctant to start pulling on panels in fear of doing some expensive damage. Any advice or assistance would be greatly appreciated

I have built a small transistorised circuit that will take a very small 1ma signal from the off side Fog Lamp and and then feed a 12 volt supply to the near side Fog Lamp. The Nearside light cluster already has the fitting and bulb in place (from the factory) but is not wired up as with some other Skoda models. I do not want to take a supply from the O/S lamp as this will impose a greater (double) load on the CAN-bus module, with the potential to damage the unit. The way I have designed it will impose only a 1ma signal on the CAN-bus, and the variation in bulbs would account for much more than that, so I am confident that the CAN-bus will not be affected in any way whatsoever. I will then have two working fogs!

If I can gain access to the rear of these panels I will be able to complete the project and then post the results here at Briskoda in case anyone else wants to activate their second Fog Lamp.

Thanks again...........Tony (also known as)

THE GREAT YETI

Hi Tony, from memory there are 3 torx screws holding on the rear plastic trim.

Then I worked my way around the left rear bulkhead, it was all fairly simple apart from encountering some of those horrible plastic plugs.

I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to ease up the centre plug, and then used a pair of narrow node pliers to pull out the plug.

Andy

Hi Tony, from memory there are 3 torx screws holding on the rear plastic trim.

Then I worked my way around the left rear bulkhead, it was all fairly simple apart from encountering some of those horrible plastic plugs.

I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to ease up the centre plug, and then used a pair of narrow node pliers to pull out the plug.

Andy

THANKS Andy!!!

I am away from home at present (Holiday in Portugal) but will check all that out when I return home in about 10 days.

I presume the three Torx screws are fairly visible, and then it's just (HA!) a matter of easing the panel off and easing / breaking a few "Horrible Plastic Plugs". Your reference to the "Centre Plug" has me somewhat confused - really not hard to do these days! Where is that located? - just so I don't pull too hard at the wrong time.

Did you take note of any "standard wiring" ? As I said in the previous post I am looking for somewhere that I can get a little power (2 amps) from without an impact on the CAN-bus. Basically a permanently "on" or an ignition controlled source

Thanks again for the information. I am sure it will help Best regards...............Tony

One set of fitting instructions here:

http://www.pct.eu.com/automotive/Fitting%20Instructions/pdf/SK4403.pdf

There are others on Google:

http://www.westfalia-automotive.de/fileadmin/templates/pdf/e_anlagen/317/e317079391101-01.pdf

tom

re "Horrible Plastic Plugs"

If they are anything like the ones on the FJR there is a knack, see:

http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=7

tom

just fitted my yeti towbar today had factory towbar preperation (inculeds bummber cut out,wiring to rear, uprating of yeti computer for towing)

the fitting took 3 hours fidlly part was removing rear pannels ect ,the factory prep plug are behind rear nearside pannel the wirering kit EEA630002E4 is easy to fit it is a pre wired unit that simply plugs together and one earth connection, towbar was from skoda and with kit and towbar removerble swan neck type and addapter eu type to uk type was£360

the other kit you can get is EEA630001E4 whitch has etra wiring that runs to dash area and needs wiring into fuse box.

there are 2 or 3 sizes of torex screws , iremoved boot trays and floor the rear inner center boot pannel,LH side rail screws under center trim ,the rear post pannel just clips on center piller panel is cliped but hidden screw behind lug with air bag witten on it you need to prise it out, then remove main rear Lh pannel watch out for wiring to boot light in pannel,

the bumper is fixed to the soft inner wheel arch linig with torex screws and 2 small plastic pin and plug fixings at very top point of arch thier are no solid fixings to body of car the arc and bumper are just attached together.

their are 3-4 more under central bumper area and a couple of torex ,screws thier is a body coulored plastic cliped on pannel under lights whitch pulls off and behined these are 4 nuts this is the main fixings ,watch out if you have reversing sensors as wire quite short (mine on R H side) i removed 1 zip tie and left wireing attached with bumber on floor.

if fitting bumper you will need to remove bumper bar fixed with large torex screws and you need some paint as when bumber bar is removed its only primed behind fixing points , thier are 4 holes in outer box section of chassie hiden under small rubbery patches you can feel them if you press around i removed extra coupel screws on inner wheel arch and can fold the soft inner arch back to see , you also need a torque wrench if fitting tow bar.

thier was a earthing point at top of LH wing 10mm nut and looked like main wirring loom ran over top LH wheel arch

hope this of help have some diagram from kit cant see how to attach to this forum

The Yamaha FJR plugs are much more advanced than the Skoda plugs.

THh Skoda plugs are a simple parallel pin, which slides into the centre of the plug.

torex screws ,

Sorry, but just in case anyone is looking for the correct drivers, they are TORX screws, and they have a numerical sizing.

THANKS GUYS

I will try all this out when I get home and see if I can get the second fog lamp working! I will post back here WHEN (not if) I succeed.

I am also hoping that I have a simple answer to a warning light to indicate that the heated mirror circuit is active. Some posts on here this winter report the heater element of the mirror burning out by virtue of the fact that the switch for them is just a simple on / off switch and is not timed or thermostatically controlled!

Thanks again...................Tony

(AKA) THE GREAT YETI

I am also hoping that I have a simple answer to a warning light to indicate that the heated mirror circuit is active. Some posts on here this winter report the heater element of the mirror burning out by virtue of the fact that the switch for them is just a simple on / off switch and is not timed or thermostatically controlled!

Thanks again...................Tony

(AKA) THE GREAT YETI

Now that would be a brilliant idea!!

Now that would be a brilliant idea!!

Watch this space (well, in a week or two) Just received some brilliant information from "TP" which should make life easy! Anticipate will cost less than £1 and very easy to do if all comes together.

Tony.....(AKA THE GREAT YETI)

THANKS GUYS

I will try all this out when I get home and see if I can get the second fog lamp working! I will post back here WHEN (not if) I succeed.

I am also hoping that I have a simple answer to a warning light to indicate that the heated mirror circuit is active. Some posts on here this winter report the heater element of the mirror burning out by virtue of the fact that the switch for them is just a simple on / off switch and is not timed or thermostatically controlled!

Thanks again...................Tony

(AKA) THE GREAT YETI

The heated mirror switch and lack of an indicator is very poor design. I have the same problem in my current Roomster and assumed it was only that model that was afflicted and my Yeti (when it arrives!) would have cured a simple design deficiency but from what I read it's the same! How can any manufacturer fail to provide a simple light to indicate that a switch is active when almost everything that you can think of has its own indicator?

I'll be watching your research with interest but if Skoda are watching GET IT FIXED.

Fred

The heated mirror switch and lack of an indicator is very poor design. I have the same problem in my current Roomster and assumed it was only that model that was afflicted and my Yeti (when it arrives!) would have cured a simple design deficiency but from what I read it's the same! How can any manufacturer fail to provide a simple light to indicate that a switch is active when almost everything that you can think of has its own indicator?

I'll be watching your research with interest but if Skoda are watching GET IT FIXED.

Fred

+1

My Scirocco 170 has the same design fault, it must be a VAG thing!

My towbar on e-bay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160551930073&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:GB:1123#ht_500wt_1156

Hi all

just about to fit a fixed westfalia towbar to my SE the electrics have not been modded, and am proposing to use the std electric kit supplied - as by a previous contributor , I need a 12v supply for the relay, can I use the offside socket in the boot as a source if not guidance or links please - on way back to home in France so haven't had time to look thro the forum - bit lazy you see, as per my t shirt Mr Lazy!

salut

tony

Edited 20 May, 201115 yr by Frenchtone