As in title,

I am waiting for remap form Shark Performance, also got Green Cotton Filter to put on, thinking to get PD160 intake if wont go too expensive on ebay,

and want to do one more good decent move to improve performance/power which could be....???

I red about exhaust which isnt restrictive that much so would bother to do anything with it

I was thinking to get Seat Sport Intercooler with Silicone pd130 kit, is that good move or with standard turbo is not any point?

I think cant afford to upgrade turbo,

so what would you recommened to me to do next?

any advice please

I'd get seat fmic, coilovers, jabba rarb, seat front strut brace, upgrade brake pads, if u can afford it uprate discs too, i have milltek cat back, pd160, green panel, eibach springs (coilovers in few weeks)

312mm brake upgrade is a very good mod after a re-map. I doubt it's worthwhile having a FMIC with your set up. Hopefully the experts will confirm this?

For the price of a FMIC you could have a full leather re-trim.

Ummm, it really should be HARDWARE mods first, then software.... How is your remap going to like it now you're planning to change all the things the remap has been setup for? Unless your mapper is happy to tweak stuff for free once you have changed hardware?

Ummm, it really should be HARDWARE mods first, then software....

+1

OP - think that's about it in terms of performance and before a bigger turbo. Get some handling mods done you can go faster if you can stop and turn better.

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Waiting for remap via STS device, so dont know yet, I would prefer fmic etc than leather retrim

about handling, I got spyders 17" with toyo, Eibach springs, going to do 312mm setup once my discs/pads worn out

also thinkin between whiteline rarb and front uper strut brace,

but about power/performance upgrade fmic or PD150 etc?

So what u advice?

no fmic with this setup so turbo then?

I think a remap is about much as you can do performance wise on std turbo really, it starts getting very expensive after that also...

yeah as above relli mate, gonna have to start spending big buck now. i got my remap today and it class, gonna whack some coilovers on her and a rear anti roll bar then sum 312mm as my discs and pads are nerli new atm

Waiting for remap via STS device, so dont know yet, I would prefer fmic etc than leather retrim

about handling, I got spyders 17" with toyo, Eibach springs, going to do 312mm setup once my discs/pads worn out

also thinkin between whiteline rarb and front uper strut brace,

but about power/performance upgrade fmic or PD150 etc?

R-ARB, do it now! Either the Whiteline or the Jabba is far, far better than not having one. :-)

The best single mod I did to my car.

J.

As said - handling and brake upgrades first, then remap.

PD160

Rear ARB

Eibach springs/Eibach plus uprated dampers/coilovers*

312mm upgrade

Remap

In that order. FMIC on the std KKK turbo will only increase lag really. And on a stage-1 map it will cope find and the SMIC shouldn't heatsoak too much. The wheelarch vent mod can be worthwhile for that.

* dependant on personal preference, and budget

If your on about power then just leave it at a remap. Everything else is probably a waste of money as you won't get any more power until you change the turbo.

For the price of a fmic you could get a pd150 turbo and with a remap get 180-190bhp.

If your on about power then just leave it at a remap. Everything else is probably a waste of money as you won't get any more power until you change the turbo.

For the price of a fmic you could get a pd150 turbo and with a remap get 180-190bhp.

thats wat Im talkin about

so PD150 turbo instead of SS FMIC??

how much lookin for pd150?

also is that straight swap or mods required?

180-190 is that safe for standard clutch 71k car?

Edited 7 April, 201115 yr by hornas

Something i did forget to mention is the uprated dogbone mount bush, makes the gear shift a lot more positive

[if you can put up with more vibrations] ....

ive got the ''road'' use version of which i cant think of the make at the moment, its purple

Whats year is your car? At a guess I'd say if it hasn't already had a turbo replaced it's probably 2003 or 2004.

I haven't had trouble on standard clutch, mines on 110k miles. Difference being that mine had a new flywheel at 99k miles along with clutch at the same time (seems they prefer to do this)

I'm going to do the wheel arch mod very soon, already noticed a slight change in power in 10c heat difference. If your not after pd130 or pd150 hybrid turbo which are around £1100-1350 I don't see why you'd bother with changing the turbo at all. Standard turbo will cope with 170-180 (Garett turbo I mean) I'm going to change the clutch soon as I get the chance but my main focus is handling right now. Coilovers, RARB, Strut brace (front) and Uprated Pads and possibly Discs too.

Mine one is reg53

Turbo clutch all parts standard,

as I see hybrids beyond my budget

but u say not to bother change turbo,

few post above sum1 said not to bother fmic with that setup

so dont know what I could do

To finish first, first you have to finish.

Brakes & suspension all the way - will make you much quicker for ££ spent over engine mods.

Don't skimp on cheap tyres, this is a relatively cheap way of going quicker too.

I didn't even consider tuning mine until suspension & brakes sorted.

Agree with the Tyres. However I'll put driver training higher. Cars only as quick as the driver.

Smic isnt very good as after a quick 20 second blast intake temps will reach 90c. However I'd still not recommend a fmic. Been only track with high boosted standard turbo's and they never seem to struggle much. Not saying it's doesn't work just saying it's not really worth it of your only having quick blasts.

Mine one is reg53

Turbo clutch all parts standard,

as I see hybrids beyond my budget

but u say not to bother change turbo,

few post above sum1 said not to bother fmic with that setup

so dont know what I could do

Putting it short, nothing engine wise. Until you save some cash

Matt

Put another way, doing springs, brakes and the rear ARB will enable you to use more of the car's standard performance

If i were doing it all again, starting from a standard car, i'd do the following.

Uprated discs/pads, or 312's.

Decent tyres.

Panel filter.

Springs/shocks combo.

Rarb.

Mild Remap.

After that, only replace age/mileage related parts.

Much easier on your wallet And probably just as much fun.

Ok thanks for info

so I ll do that first not far of that wat u recommending:

I got:

-spyders with Toyo proxes t1r

-green panel filter

-shark performance remap(not uploaded yet)

-eibach springs

-getting pd160

-getting strut brace

planning:

- 312 brake set up

- whiteline rarb (shame I didnt join forum early as missed group buy)

About power/performance I thought more like staight line/acceleration

beacuse not able to save that money, I ll give up with big power mods

Spyders and eibach will sort the looks and will make the steering more responsive. Personaly think the eibachs deserve decent dampers (not eibach ones) to give them their full potential.

Remap will sort the power.

Are you happy with the brake feel? If so leave them. If not sell your panel filter and dont bother with the PD160 and put the money towards getting 312's.

Rear Anti roll bar is a must if you like your car to be adjustable french style

dont forget to add this to your list - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUPERPRO-DOG-BONE-MOUNT-BUSH-FABIA-vRS-6Y-1-9-TDI-Z0996-/330534827319?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4cf5693537#ht_1724wt_672

Spyders and eibach will sort the looks and will make the steering more responsive. Personaly think the eibachs deserve decent dampers (not eibach ones) to give them their full potential.

Remap will sort the power.

Are you happy with the brake feel? If so leave them. If not sell your panel filter and dont bother with the PD160 and put the money towards getting 312's.

Not really happy with brakes, soon def going to upgrade for 312

do u think panel filter and pd160 dont do/help much after remap?