so today i set about fitting my rather large front mount intercooler .

took a bit of messing about but i got it in after a few hours and i am happy with the results as i still have my bumper brase in as well

there is also 3 people i would like to say thanks to as well

1. is my girlfriend who took all the pics made my cups of tea and was there to hold things and pass me tools.

2 vrsjaw for supplying me with the intercooler and pipes

3 . c and c exhausts in hillington in glasgow for remaking the intercooler pipes out of stainless steel

enjoy the pics

and stealth look is the way forward going to try fit the decat tommmorrow.

Stevo

Looks really good. Nicely hidden behind the bumper, so doesn't look too chav.. lol. (Apologies to all Chavs reading this!)

Looked quite straight forward.. Do you notice any difference in performance??

tbh its only made a slight difference that i can feel but once the decatgoes on with a cold air intake and shark is doing the stage 2 map it should be better

yeah it wasnet to bad to fit hardest part was splitting the croosmember to chop the section out to route the top pipe through the cross member

Is it a genuine Forge or a Forgery.

Bill.

it is a forgery buddy the previous owner of the intercooler had done the logo but u dont really see it on my car

stevo

Looks really good. Nicely hidden behind the bumper, so doesn't look too chav.. lol. (Apologies to all Chavs reading this!)

So by that statement that makes me a chav........

tbh its only made a slight difference that i can feel but once the decatgoes on with a cold air intake and shark is doing the stage 2 map it should be better

yeah it wasnet to bad to fit hardest part was splitting the croosmember to chop the section out to route the top pipe through the cross member

Nice I/C mate, what turbo setup do you have? Or intending to run? Surely not just a KO3s?

Why not just use the Forge FMIC designed specifically for the vRS? Saying that I'm all for trying something new and different!!

Steve

Nice

Nice workshop too - wish I had access to a ramp to do jobs.

Hoping to put a ko4 on next year and yes the forge setup is good but that cost me half the price and I get a good feelin from maken it fit

Yeah rob having axcess to the work over the weekend makes all the difference

Looks really good.

Hoping to put a ko4 on next year and yes the forge setup is good but that cost me half the price and I get a good feelin from maken it fit

Fair play then

That'll be nice with the KO4 setup, although to be honest to get the best from that size cooler you should go IHI or gt28!! It'd be rude not to!

Steve

it is a forgery buddy the previous owner of the intercooler had done the logo but u dont really see it on my car

stevo

Even though its not a genuine Forge, I'd still expect an FMIC of those dimensions to produce much lower AIT's than the OEM SMIC set up

The only slight down side maybe an increased pressure drop changing from a (short) 13 tube single pass SMIC to a (very long) 8 tube double pass FMIC.

Hope it works well.

Bill.

Will see how it goes bill thanks

And steve wont theses other turbos need uprated internals ?

Stevo

Will see how it goes bill thanks

And steve wont theses other turbos need uprated internals ?

Stevo

No, internals are fine for 330bhp/320 ibs/ft torque.

You could just change the rods (weak point) by dropping the sump and doing it that way, then you'd be fine!

i was reading a little about it but like i said the turbo is next year too many other things i would like to try and get before then

stevo

so today i set about fitting my rather large front mount intercooler .

and stealth look is the way forward going to try fit the decat tommmorrow.

Nice go buddy, not sure that a visible red labelled(Forgery) large intercooler through the grill is truly stealth but like the fact you made it fit with what looks not too much trouble.

You could just change the rods (weak point) by dropping the sump and doing it that way, then you'd be fine!

Seriously.... can you really get the pistons and rods in and out of bottom of a 1.8T block with the crankshaft in place ???

With the engine in situ I'd have said the cylinder head would defo have had to come off.

Bill.

I really like how you did it.

I also prefer the "stealthy" approach, raises the eyebrows more when you pull away from other cars.

If I ever go to a FMIC, I wouldnt touch the steel bumper, just a matter of personal choice, and accept the drop in cooling efficiency.

Neat job

Peter

Seriously.... can you really get the pistons and rods in and out of bottom of a 1.8T block with the crankshaft in place ???With the engine in situ I'd have said the cylinder head would defo have had to come off.Bill.

i was thinking that as well because how would u compress the rings to get the pistons back in to the bores ??

or does the pistion come down enough to get the pins out with out taking the rings right out the cylinder bores ?

stevo

Nice go buddy, not sure that a visible red labelled(Forgery) large intercooler through the grill is truly stealth but like the fact you made it fit with what looks not too much trouble.

i could get the stencil from forge and paint over it in silver or i never thought of this at the time i could of flipped the cooler over

i know i was expecting alot more hassel

I really like how you did it.

I also prefer the "stealthy" approach, raises the eyebrows more when you pull away from other cars.

If I ever go to a FMIC, I wouldnt touch the steel bumper, just a matter of personal choice, and accept the drop in cooling efficiency.

Neat job

Peter

yeah but even the one from forge uses a different support and the fact i have weaked the support worries me slightly but i was derermined that i was getting it back on

the other thing that worries me is the ground clearence between the road and the cooler as the bummpwe Already catches now and again a decent sized bump could in theroy hit the cooler, if that happens i will go but the forge one lol but if it doesent i have saved pennys

stevo

No, internals are fine for 330bhp/320 ibs/ft torque.

You could just change the rods (weak point) by dropping the sump and doing it that way, then you'd be fine!

Seriously.... can you really get the pistons and rods in and out of bottom of a 1.8T block with the crankshaft in place ???

With the engine in situ I'd have said the cylinder head would defo have had to come off.

Bill.

i was thinking that as well because how would u compress the rings to get the pistons back in to the bores ??

or does the pistion come down enough to get the pins out with out taking the rings right out the cylinder bores ?

stevo

I never said anything about the pistons. The rods will give way before the pistons will.

Steve

but how do u get the pin out of the rod that goes through the rod and piston (gudgion pin) excuse the spelling

number 11 in that pic that goes through the piston i would of thought u need the piston out to remove that pin to allow the rod to be changed altho i have never stripped a 1.8 turbo before

stevo

I've never done this particular procedure myself, but to the best of my knowledge it can still be done.

Steve

have to admit i did wonder that when you said about removing the rods insitu so to speak, would be a nice touch if you could do from the bottom of the engine, will keep an eye on this thread!

I never said anything about the pistons. The rods will give way before the pistons will.

Steve

What I was questioning Steve, was your comment that its possible to remove/replace 1.8T con rods by removing the sump, which to me sort of implied that the rods can be removed downwards past the crank ????

Neat trick if its true

But IMO unless the pistons and rods would come out past the crank as one assembly (after the piston cooling jets had been removed), it would be too hard to remove/refit the gudgeon pin circlips, heat the piston up to 60 degrees and remove/refit the gudgeon pin with the piston still in the block.

You defo can remove con rods downwards past the crank on some large/heavy diesel engines, I know cos I've done it, in fact on some truck engines that I've stripped and rebuilt (many many moons ago when I was an apprentice) it was the only way the rods, pistons and valves could go due to the fact the block and head were cast as one solid lump.

Bill.

Edited 31 May, 201115 yr by vrs180