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Felicia 1.8T transplant thread


TeflonTom

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  • 4 weeks later...

after some proper decent road testing i've had a few minor teething issues that have sprung up, firstly i popped one of the coolant hoses at the base of the expansion tank which spat all the coolant out on the road, this was caused by not having a long enough hose which was little too tight so it popped when the engine moved under load. i've re-routed the coolant hoses in this area now and it seems fine now.. secondly i've got a noisey outer cv joint on the passenger side, but only on medium to full lock and it only does it when the engine is on load, ie when the weight shifts, when it's coasting or at low speed it doesnt do it, the angle of the passenger side driveshaft is not ideal and i think when the weight sifts it just pushes it past its operating range so it vibrates, plan is to shift the engine back slightly on the gearbox side and also use some stiffer engine mountings

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Great read Tom, loved the way the car is NEVER finished, you think it is but something else always turns up.

 

That's what projects are all about.

 

How are you going to move the engine back on the pass side?

Will you have to modify the reworked inner arch and uprated mounting plate and mount?

What sort of amount of engine movement (mm/inches) are you aiming for?

 

You've done an amazing job of the conversion and getting rid of the poor bodywork.

Any changes we will still need to see the updates.

 

Thanks once again for the link.

Cheers Pete.

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  • 4 weeks later...

How are you going to move the engine back on the pass side?

Will you have to modify the reworked inner arch and uprated mounting plate and mount?

What sort of amount of engine movement (mm/inches) are you aiming for?

.

hello Pete, all will be revealed ASAP, I had a fancy spacer Cnc milled which offsets the gearbox towards the back of the engine bay instead of the straight through bolt on jobby I made before, it should be back from the machine shop tomorrow but I'm going to busy busy tomorrow and all weekend so I'm not going to get a chance to play..

on the subject of engine movement under load I think I might have alluded to earlier, I've got some vibratechnics engine mounts on the way (mk4 golf type) to reduce the movement, plus I've reworked the rear lower engine mount so that it slightly shorter so it holds the engine more in an upright position and it uses a solid bush made from an engineering plastic called delrin rather than a polyurethane type I used before...

also a new ecu is winging it's way to me, I had problems with my original ecu, many thanks to those members here that made this possible, you know who you are.

Updates to follow.

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Tom, only just noticed how you did the torque reaction link under the gearbox, you really do need to get the 2 bushes level in a horizontal plane otherwise it will cockle the torque link and allow the motor to move back under load, been there done that one lol. looking good tho

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Jim, I think we must be on the same wavelength on that subject, I had rapidly come to the same conclusion myself, the top of the engine moves back, and the bottom moves forward, kind of like it's pivoting on the side mountings, hence why I've reworked it. There's still once last dimension I need to complete it but I need to fit up the new spacer and the vibratechnics engine mounts before I can finale the drawings, then it's back off to the machine shop

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The other thing I've observed by strapping a gopro camera underneath the car is that this part

100_0995.jpg

is flexing when A high amount of torque is applied to it, after all it was only designed for a 75bhp engine, when it gets a kick in the teeth from the big 20v engine it squirms about, it's only thin 1.5mm steel plate which is folded and welded to shape, so I'm either going to fabricate a new one or reinforce this one by adding spars to the outside... But like you say, it's important that this thing is perpendicular to the to the load applied to it, I don't know why I didn't think of this before tbh.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Yes, CR turbo engineering are on the job, went up there today, my current turbo has a massive crack in the turbine housing so it not long left for this world tbh. I wasn't specifically looking for more power it just struck me that if I was going to that much trouble to fit another turbo then I might as well do it right first time, It's not going to be easy to get the turbo out from it's hiding place down the back of the engine and I don't want to have to do it again.. I got a second hand turbo from a breakers yard to use as a core.

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Will you get the turbo changed with the engine in place, i have been curious what access there is for maintenance in the Felicia bay...

I have a CR k03 hybrid (rs6 internals?) i got carried away and bought it last year.

I had been trying to sell it on to put the funds towards my conversion, but if i still have it i'll fit it when i get around to the conversion.

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The one I've bought is the stage 1 version, with rs6 compressor wheel and cut back turbine, 360 degree roller bearings, and also I've requested they use a garret t2 actuator instead of the BorgWarner one because it's smaller and it will help me with a minor clearance issue.

yes it will be an absolute pig to get the turbo out. If it's going to be too difficult I will just lift the whole engine out, I'm also going to be changing the cam chain tensioner and oil pump, plus fitting a shallow sump kit at the same time all in one go, also still not fitted the above vibratechnics engine mounts yet, thought I'd leave it till it's all coming apart.. Was planning on taking the car off the road when the tax expires in a few days, Then I can get it up on dollies in the garage and work on it at my leisure.

I wish I knew you were trying to get rid of one before I'd handed over a big bag of money.

edit; haha if that's the tax expiring that means Its lasted 6 months so far.. I'm amazed actually!

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