hi have recently joined but followed this thread with great interest I am currently starting a similar project with vw  1.8 turbo , would it be possible to ask for some guidance  on what thickness of metal was used to make the engine bracket mounting plates as shown in aprox picture five, also what type of nuts  where welded to the rear of the plate ,any advice gratefully     received  with thx c

It was 2mm cr4 grade, which is actually a structural/architectural grade, but that was overkill for that to be honest, i only used it because thats what the laser cutters had on the machine at the time, the nuts were common zinc plated 8.8 grade.

get down the scrapyard and find a golf or a3 or octavia etc, and just cut them off the bodywork with a metal cutting jigsaw blade.

HI thanku for reply, would just like to say the thread is excellent  and engineering also regards c

Awesome thread! What a shame it had to change hands, but by the sounds of it, it's in good hands anyway!

Onwards and upwards Tom and congratulations on a great build!

I've not had chance to do much to her yet, with chemo and hospital visits, used her as my daily for a couple of weeks and caught the sump on a traffic calming hump cracking it. so its ben sat on my drive waiting untill I feel well enough to swap the sump, while its on the ramp I was thinking of fitting the big turbo too and making an exhaust for it.

we have an entry in for road rally type thing

http://purerally.co.uk/event/pure-rally-uk-2016-beach-run-20th-to-22nd-may-2016/

in may so that should be a laugh, defo keeping the bonnet shut for that weekend lol..

Probly going to be around Feb before I get chance to do anything more tho.

I've not had chance to do much to her yet, with chemo and hospital visits, used her as my daily for a couple of weeks and caught the sump on a traffic calming hump cracking it. so its ben sat on my drive waiting untill I feel well enough to swap the sump, while its on the ramp I was thinking of fitting the big turbo too and making an exhaust for it.

we have an entry in for road rally type thing

http://purerally.co.uk/event/pure-rally-uk-2016-beach-run-20th-to-22nd-may-2016/

in may so that should be a laugh, defo keeping the bonnet shut for that weekend lol..

Probly going to be around Feb before I get chance to do anything more tho.

 

Jim, my spanner ability falls well below par compared to you, but I'd be happy to come up and lend a hand in changing out the sump if you wanted. Let me know. Take it easy, good luck with the rally in May!  

Thanks Rob, my apprentice will do it for me, when I manage to get him a sump lol

Thanks Rob, my apprentice will do it for me, when I manage to get him a sump lol

 

You're just slacking now! :P  

You will need a long ball-end Allen wrench, it's either 5 or 6mm I can't remember which now. The 2 sump bolts up behind the flywheel are very difficult to access and can only be done with a ball end Allen key.

New pattern part sumps from euro car parts are about £45, and they are pretty good quality too. No oil level sensor on that one.

Edited 20 November, 201510 yr by TeflonTom

Yeh they can be a pain to get out, I have a sump on a blown motor at work, just need to get my arse into gear and get it off for him lol...

I'm actually part way through this conversion, wasn't going to post but thought why not!

Got the engine mounted in, the plates are in place but the rest of the welding needs finishing off.

Put my engine quite abit further forward compared to Tom's because i want space for the turbo, going to fit atleast a K04-23 or maybe T3 or Gt28 perhaps.

Fitted the 1.9 felicia heater to give more space.

Going to be using a 02j gearbox with mk4 golf shifter cables, going for hydraulic clutch using land rover clutch master cylinder with custom piping to standard 02j slave cylinder.

Both the drive shafts i have fit and are actually bolted in place, using b4 passat offside shaft and mk2 golf syncro rear shaft near side. (Changed over to 100mm bolt in flanges) This is with the car in the air mind,not tried them with the car on the floor yet.

Also got my custom engine loom made up as plug and play from a chap off another forum with a extremely good reputation for his custom plug and play looms.

Edited 1 December, 201510 yr by nu99et18

Thank you for sharing the details of the driveshafts and let us know how they work out, I'm desperate to fit a better gearbox in my MTDI pickup but didn't want the expense of custom driveshafts!

Will the felicia fuel pump be up to the job of supplying enough fuel for 250bhp+?

Or should i change it? Sure i read mk3 and mk4 platform cars pumps fit the felicia tank..so could be a solution if needed.

My 190bhp xe ran ok on one I think as long as it's the mpi pump you should be OK. Physical pump itself looks identical. Not so sure the mk4 level sender is compatible so may be some Messing around with that

I suppose i can just try it and see how it goes!

If you are going above 220 ish I would fit a swirl pot and an additional inline pump in the engine bay.

I'm aiming for around 270ish with the k04 setup i've opted for.

I have a spare mk2 golf kjet pump i could use as additional, though it would be man enough on its own.

The k jet pumps dont run a high enough pressure for a 1.8T engine.

They do, kjet pump is 5bar 128 l/h, think they're good for around 320bhp

Infact i've been using a kjet pump in my mk2 golf which has been running a 1.8t with 297bhp 316lb for nearly a year and a half now.

Edited 17 January, 201610 yr by nu99et18

I thought they were onoy rated for 1 bar of pressure at that flow rate?

Not sure on that, but everyone seems to use them in the mk2 golf 1.8t scene without issues so obviously up to the job!

I prefered using the digifant in tank pumps on the mk2 golfs, but they are hard to find now.

Could i use something like a walbro 255 inline pump in the engine bay somewhere? Leave the felicia stuff in as it is acting like a lift?

Where would you fit the swirl pot?

Fit the swirl pot on the drivers side just above where the fuel injection hard pipes come up, you ought to run if off a dedicated relay too. Make sure you plumb in the fuel hoses correctly too or you can end up with an air lock in the swirl chamber, normally there's 2 unions at the top and 2 at the bottom.. One of the tops is where the supply hose from the tank goes, the bottom goes back to the tank return.. The other bottom Union goes to the inline pump and onto the fuel rail, then the return back from the engine goes into thie other top union... A diagram would have been so much better wouldn't it..

Yeah that's exactly where i was thinking, quite a lot of free space there. I have looked at some diagrams and they do match what you have said. I think this is a pretty good solution tbh!

Some updates, intercooler and piping (63mm) is near enough done, gotta make some brackets to hold the intercooler, used some exhaust pipe to go through the crossmember and welded it all back up around the pipes.

It's piped up with the k03 still in place but the k04 will be near enough the same position, also need a couple pipes welded on the charge pipe for diverter valve and actuator.

Gear cables routed through the car, welded some bolts inside the car and bolted the gear change to those like Tom did.

Then went for a different approach with the rear engine mount, welded a bracket to the subframe.

Edited 23 January, 201610 yr by nu99et18