Hi everyone.

Sold my previous y2k Fabia 16v AUB due to excessive oil consumption (1L/1200km) and expect to get 2001 16v AUB by september..

The current owner claims to top up with 1L/10.000km with semi-synth 10w40 oil.. what can i do to keep it that way?

Is there a recommended type/brand of oil that best prevents oil consumption?

Any special engine maintenance i should follow?

Really love the Fabia I, it's my favorit car of all time, far more enjoyable to me than my wife's 2004 Audi A3 2.0 Tdi..

I wish to take every measure possible to keep this beautiful green 2001 101hp Fabia Elegance with 140.000km in the best condition possible, so i could really use some good advices.

Thank you all.

Edited 11 August, 201114 yr by Dark Ang3L

You don't have anything to worry about, the engines early life is what dictates the oil consumption, driven too gently the bores glaze and blowby follows.

Old people ruin this engine.

You don't have anything to worry about, the engines early life is what dictates the oil consumption, driven too gently the bores glaze and blowby follows.

Old people ruin this engine.

Well, i have to admit.. never really understood why some burned oil and others didn't.. until now.

Does make some sense.

The one i had 139000km and belong to a senior.. every mechanic i spoke to told it was some kind of design flaw/quality issue with the rings, and i was amazed that most of them said fitting new piston rings would be a waste of time and money, because it would never really solve the problem.

"car isn't worth it, you're better off selling it"

Makes me want to go and buy my previous blue Fabia 16v 101hp back from the current owner and try to replace the rings..

Thank you for the input, my fellow briskodian.. wish i realized that sooner :(

Old people ruin this engine.

Oh joy! Mine had two previous owners, neither exactly in the first flush of youth, guess it's doomed then! :'(

Oh joy! Mine had two previous owners, neither exactly in the first flush of youth, guess it's doomed then! :'(

Humm.. if i manage to get my previous oil drunk Fabia back, you guys think replacing the rings worth it?

Anyone here tried with satisfying results?.. or it fixing this issue more complex than that?

I did replaced the PCV but had no positive results.. oil consumption stayed the same..

I'm afraid the engine has to come out, be completely stripped and the block honed to suit the new piston rings so it is a non-trivial task.

Beats me why everyone shrieks endlessly about oil consumption, if your car can pass the MOT then your oil consumption really isn't that bad.

It's a nuisance I agree and adds a little to the running costs but it's really not such a big deal.

I'm afraid the engine has to come out, be completely stripped and the block honed to suit the new piston rings so it is a non-trivial task.

Beats me why everyone shrieks endlessly about oil consumption, if your car can pass the MOT then your oil consumption really isn't that bad.

It's a nuisance I agree and adds a little to the running costs but it's really not such a big deal.

I agree with you to some degree.. mine did passed MOT, but having to top my Fabia 16v with (at least) 1 liter per month was to me a little more than a nuisance: made running costs higher, and left me concerned about catalyst failure or even worse, engine failure.

Considering that my 1995 Opel Tigra with 230.000km on it does not need top up`s for the full 15.000km OCI, did made me lose my peace of mind..

I would have kept my Fabia if it managed to do at least a 5000km OCI without the need to top up, believe me.

Anyway, after your explanation about the repair procedure, i guess i'm better off taking my chances with another one

So moving on to a recommended oil choice, what weight would be more suitable for this AUB engine?

I've seen 10w40, 5w40, xW30 and even found a 5w20 with a VW50200 certification.. and a semy-synth would be an adequate choice or would a full synth do a better job preventing ring failure/oil consumption?

Thanks for the input everyone.

Edited 6 August, 201114 yr by Dark Ang3L

It really doesn't matter, the AUB is just an ordinary N/A petrol engine so pretty much any multigrade motor oil will be just fine as long as you change it at regular intervals.

Expensive synthetics will give fractionally lower fuel consumption and don't need changing as frequently but, as ever, it's your car, your money and your choice.

Personally I use 10W40 semisyn for changes and 15W40 mineral oil for topping up since I don't believe in wasting my hard-earned cash.

I wish people would fully understand the background to this engine!!!!!

Was first in the 16v Polo around 1997 ish, but VW had problems with heat issuses due to trying to get 100bhp out of 1.4lt without turbos and superchargers etc!! So they made some revisions to it and it was then carried over to the Fabia etc.

This engine has alot of Alloy components eg camshaft carriers, crankcase, sump, gearbox housing!

Also this engine needs to run on superunleaded if you want it to run properly (Shell Vpower)as stated in the sale brochures, handbook, fuelfiller cap etc by Skoda.

The max power and torque figures are quite high in the rev range and also the red line doesn't start until quite high....so the engine needs to be driven accordingly every now and then!

AS for oil.....well taking all the above into account I have always used Mobil 1 0w/40 grade in my car..best thing for it!

P.S. although I puchased my car brand new back in Feb 2001 I only have around 48,000miles on the clock....as it only gets used once or twice a week...but it goes on a warm up trip of 15miles......then a hot return journey with a cool down!!

If I had one I'd make certain I used super unleaded, except in the extreme circumstance I am unable to buy any on one occasion. I would hazard a guess when piston rings fail, it's often due to saving 5p per litre on fuel.

I wish people would fully understand the background to this engine!!!!!

Was first in the 16v Polo around 1997 ish, but VW had problems with heat issuses due to trying to get 100bhp out of 1.4lt without turbos and superchargers etc!! So they made some revisions to it and it was then carried over to the Fabia etc.

This engine has alot of Alloy components eg camshaft carriers, crankcase, sump, gearbox housing!

Also this engine needs to run on superunleaded if you want it to run properly (Shell Vpower)as stated in the sale brochures, handbook, fuelfiller cap etc by Skoda.

The max power and torque figures are quite high in the rev range and also the red line doesn't start until quite high....so the engine needs to be driven accordingly every now and then!

AS for oil.....well taking all the above into account I have always used Mobil 1 0w/40 grade in my car..best thing for it!

P.S. although I puchased my car brand new back in Feb 2001 I only have around 48,000miles on the clock....as it only gets used once or twice a week...but it goes on a warm up trip of 15miles......then a hot return journey with a cool down!!

That's a lot of exclamation marks, the only place you can go now is CAPITALS!!!!!!!!!

What have I said which has upset you so, and why do I need a history lesson?

ALL modern drivetrains use alloy components wherever possible and there is certainly nothing unusual about this one.

I bought a brand new 2000W polo 1.4 16v 75 BHP (second car) and never had any problems with oil consumption because it got driven properly from day one.

The 100 BHP Polo GTI from the late 90's was in fact a different engine, a 1.6 IIRC.

I understand why engines don't need 'running in' because I used to work in the engine development industry.

There is a massive amount of nonsense talked about 'running in' a new engine and about 'magic' synthetic oils. You're certainly not doing your engine any harm at all using that super expensive snake oil, just wasting your money which is fine because it's yours and you can, but I always try to give factual advice to posters based on actual engineering principles rather than falling into the trap of 'selling' idiosyncratic self justifications.

If I had one I'd make certain I used super unleaded, except in the extreme circumstance I am unable to buy any on one occasion. I would hazard a guess when piston rings fail, it's often due to saving 5p per litre on fuel.

Please tell to me how the fuel grade used can affect piston ring life, because I can't think of a physical mechanism to explain it.

I too only use super unleaded in mine but it is only because the engine is very noticeably snappier and more economical, particularly off tickover.

My understanding is that unleaded, as compared with super unleaded, burns quicker. (I.e. super unleaded burns in a more controlled manner). Therefore if you use unleaded, it will burn sooner. In the case of an engine tuned to run with super, this may cause "pinking" whereby the petrol burns sooner, thereby forcing the piston down at a point in time when it is still rising.

Knock sensors are designed to compensate for differing fuel grades though.

I guess if the manual says use RON98 it makes sense to use that. Just like you wouldn't try put diesel in and see if that works

My understanding is that unleaded, as compared with super unleaded, burns quicker. (I.e. super unleaded burns in a more controlled manner). Therefore if you use unleaded, it will burn sooner. In the case of an engine tuned to run with super, this may cause "pinking" whereby the petrol burns sooner, thereby forcing the piston down at a point in time when it is still rising.

Knock sensors are designed to compensate for differing fuel grades though.

I guess if the manual says use RON98 it makes sense to use that. Just like you wouldn't try put diesel in and see if that works

Ah, ok, so this 'pinking' or 'knocking' which would normally damage valve heads, valve seats, spark plugs, combustion chambers and piston crowns on THIS particular engine only affects the piston rings?

I think ring 'fret' might be possible if the pistons are too soft in which case it is the pistons themselves rather than the rings which are failing.

I still think bore glazing is a more likely explanation though since there are very many of these engines fitted to a wide range of VAG group cars which do not burn oil.

I wish people would fully understand the background to this engine!!!!!

Was first in the 16v Polo around 1997 ish, but VW had problems with heat issuses due to trying to get 100bhp out of 1.4lt without turbos and superchargers etc!! So they made some revisions to it and it was then carried over to the Fabia etc.

This engine has alot of Alloy components eg camshaft carriers, crankcase, sump, gearbox housing!

Also this engine needs to run on superunleaded if you want it to run properly (Shell Vpower)as stated in the sale brochures, handbook, fuelfiller cap etc by Skoda.

The max power and torque figures are quite high in the rev range and also the red line doesn't start until quite high....so the engine needs to be driven accordingly every now and then!

AS for oil.....well taking all the above into account I have always used Mobil 1 0w/40 grade in my car..best thing for it!

P.S. although I puchased my car brand new back in Feb 2001 I only have around 48,000miles on the clock....as it only gets used once or twice a week...but it goes on a warm up trip of 15miles......then a hot return journey with a cool down!!

Forgive my curiosity, but since you purchased your Fabia brand new, did it develloped any oil consumption since?

If mine suffered from early bore glazing, and did not puffed out blue smoke thru the tail pipe or failed MOT, i'm guessing the excess oil was burned by the catalyst converters..

So, just to make sure i understood correctly, it makes no difference using either VW50200 grade 5w20 full synth or VW50101 grade 15w40 mineral oil?

If mineral, semi-synth or full synth as no influence on oil consumption, i should be better off doing shorter oil change intervals.. say 10.000km OCI with a cheaper 5w40 or 10w40 oil.. or even a 5000km OCI rather than using an expensive long life oil?

If it helps, i do have a short trip driving style.. short trips to work usually no longer than 10 minutes all week long and the occasional weekend longer rid just for relaxing with the family.

I must say reading what you guys shared with me did gave a new perspective on how to take care of this engine.. thank you for that

So, just to make sure i understood correctly, it makes no difference using either VW50200 grade 5w20 full synth or VW50101 grade 15w40 mineral oil?

If mineral, semi-synth or full synth as no influence on oil consumption, i should be better off doing shorter oil change intervals.. say 10.000km OCI with a cheaper 5w40 or 10w40 oil.. or even a 5000km OCI rather than using an expensive long life oil?

In a word, yes.

That's a lot of exclamation marks, the only place you can go now is CAPITALS!!!!!!!!!

What have I said which has upset you so, and why do I need a history lesson?

THIS IT WHAT YOU STATED........AND ARE CAPITALS AND BOLD UNDERLINED OK????????

It really doesn't matter, the AUB is just an ordinary N/A petrol engine so pretty much any multigrade motor oil will be just fine as long as you change it at regular intervals.

Expensive synthetics will give fractionally lower fuel consumption and don't need changing as frequently but, as ever, it's your car, your money and your choice.

Personally I use 10W40 semisyn for changes and 15W40 mineral oil for topping up since I don't believe in wasting my hard-earned cash.

ALL modern drivetrains use alloy components wherever possible and there is certainly nothing unusual about this one.

I bought a brand new 2000W polo 1.4 16v 75 BHP (second car) and never had any problems with oil consumption because it got driven properly from day one.

The 100 BHP Polo GTI from the late 90's was in fact a different engine, a 1.6 IIRC.

Please tell to me how the fuel grade used can affect piston ring life, because I can't think of a physical mechanism to explain it.

When the 1.4 16v 74kw 100bhp (AFH code I think) first appeared in the 6N Polo around 1997ish badged the 16v in the UK...it was not just "an ordinary petrol engine". For a small mass produced hatch it was a little firecracker of a non-assisted engine........I should know I almost traded in my new built to order 1996 1.4 8v 6N Polo for one!!!

The OP was wanting advice on getting the most in terms of longevity etc out of his engine..........The AUB engine is well known for having problems (I know the Skoda techs at my local dealership and they recon that mine is the only one that they know doesn't or won't have engine problems)........most of these engine problems are due to incorrect grade of fuel (not using 98 or 99 ron).......skimping on the oil changes and the quality of the oil..........and not driving/using the engine properly!

Stating to someone that you use (and there for it is ok as you used to work in the engine development industry) ""10W40 semisyn for changes and 15W40 mineral oil for topping up""......for the AUB engine is wrong, wrong, wrong!......Doing a search, everyone recommends fully or semi-synthetic oils of either 0w/40, 5w/30, 5w/40, 10w/40, with only one (Halfords cheapie) stating 15w/40 semi-syn.......nobody saying use a mineral oil (non-synthetic).

With reguards to the piston ring failures and weather or not I am wasting my money by using 0w/40 Mobil One (or Millers eq) speak to either Millers or mobil One tech depts...I had a nice chat with the Millers lot a while back re their motorsport gerabox oil (which I then fitted...obviously another waste of money according to you).

P.S. to the OP I have never had an oil consumption problem with my engine...or blue smoke etc....but I have always used the Skoda service specs etc as the minimum starting point.....and have added to them...which is why my 10yr old car has a brilliant engine!

I believe in the old saying " Prevention is better than cure"!

Edited 7 August, 201114 yr by fabdavrav

So no explanations forthcoming then...

Please stop quoting salesmen and grease monkeys and tell me WHY, I just want to know why what I've learned through years of experience cuts no ice with you.

I'm really pleased your car is fantastic and you're really happy with it.

If it's got low oil use at current mileage it will be fine. I had that engine in a 2005 Polo bought new, drove it out of showroom, got it warmed up, and then red lined it through the gears a few times, it used 240ml of oil in the first 6000 miles and nout after that. Worry less, drive more.

So no explanations forthcoming then...

Please stop quoting salesmen and grease monkeys and tell me WHY, I just want to know why what I've learned through years of experience cuts no ice with you.

I'm really pleased your car is fantastic and you're really happy with it.

I'm going to keep it simple as I don't remeber all the very technical details, so here goes.....

1. I don't like not doing the minimum that the manufacturer says.....so that means using 98ron petrol to get the best out of the engine and using a good quality oil. So you use a 15w/40??? I'd like to see you leave your car outside up where I am in winter and have a nice clean start in the morning like I do!!

2. My late stepfather was a very high up consoletent heat transfer engineer, petrochemical engineer, and had been in the industry for about 50years..designing/project managing oil refineries....gas pumping stations....desailanisation plants...it would be easier to state what he didn't know!.....He always used the best oils and fuels in his Volvos for a reason!

3. A mates dad and one of my friends back at uni both do rallying....again they use best oils etc.

All what you call "hype" isn't with reguards to fuel and oils as they are all different grades and blends which use different bits from the refinery. If you want to skimp then thats fine...but please don't advise others to go against what the manufacturers state, especially when the OP asks for advice to get longevity out of his car as he is worried due to the problems that can happen with this engine (AUB)

Well, considering that the 140.000km 2001 Fabia 16v AUB 101 Elegance i´m interested in is, according to its current owner, running on semy-synth VW50101 10w40, i'll probably start with Castrol GTX 15w40 semi-synth, or Castrol Magnatec 10w40 / BP Visco 5000 10w40, all VW50101 grade.

Winter here gives us 08ºcelsius, so i could also go for a cheap "no-brand" VW50200 full synth 5w40 at least during cold weather.. probably would also provide better wear protection against my short trip driving style, and hopefully not change its current 1 liter per 10.000km oil consumption rate.

Thanks again, guys.

Edited 8 August, 201114 yr by Dark Ang3L

Winter here gives us 08ºcelsius, so i could also go for a cheap "no-brand" VW50200 full synth 5w40 at least during cold weather.. probably would also provide better wear protection against my short trip driving style, and hopefully not change its current 1 liter per 10.000km oil consumption rate.

Yep! best idea.....as is the minimum that I would use....have used a cheapie (Halfords own brand over here) fully-syn 5w/40 that is to the VW 502 specs in a mates 1.4lt Fabia...no problems!

P.S. also do an engine flush see my post re this with photos in an 8v MPI engine!

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/208388-why-you-should-use-wynns-engine-flush/

Edited 8 August, 201114 yr by fabdavrav

For what it's worth I have never gone along with all this codswallop concerning expensive oils.

There are two stickers underneath the bonnet on my Fabia 1.4 16v which have been there since new and they both state:- Skoda Reccomends Shell Helix Plus 10w - 40 oil so thats good enough for me.

For what it's worth I have never gone along with all this codswallop concerning expensive oils.

There are two stickers underneath the bonnet on my Fabia 1.4 16v which have been there since new and they both state:- Skoda Reccomends Shell Helix Plus 10w - 40 oil so thats good enough for me.

Mine never had those!!!

Ok, a bit off-topic, but a must question, since i am almost closing the deal on the this 2001 16v Fabia Elegance..

The seller told me that is car as ABS+ASR, as well as ESP.. but if i'm informed correctly, ESP was available only as an option and if it came with it, should be a button next to the ASR to disable/enable it.

Is there a way to know this for sure? I would be nice to have such a safety feature.

My wife's Audi A3 has a ESP button to disable it if wanted.

I've tried using briskoda's search engine to find this, but with no satisfying results..

Ok, a bit off-topic, but a must question, since i am almost closing the deal on the this 2001 16v Fabia Elegance..

The seller told me that is car as ABS+ASR, as well as ESP.. but if i'm informed correctly, ESP was available only as an option and if it came with it, should be a button next to the ASR to disable/enable it.

Is there a way to know this for sure? I would be nice to have such a safety feature.

My wife's Audi A3 has a ESP button to disable it if wanted.

I've tried using briskoda's search engine to find this, but with no satisfying results..

I'm fairly certain that ESP wasn't even an option!...What the elegance spec had was ASR (traction control) with a button labeled ASR above the radio!

EDIT

ESP might have been an option....just found info in handbook.........and yes it would need a button ESP as well!

Edited 9 August, 201114 yr by fabdavrav