I have a 1994 Skoda Favorit LXIe Plus 1.3 8v.. and i'm having a few issues.

Driving along normaly at average revs and it just dies.. i have no throttle response although the engine is still running for a little while then it just cuts out. It then can either fire right away.. or take a few minutes to start. Sometimes either starting then dying right away. And sometimes the starter motor grinds.. is it a sticky solenoid? or is the engine going or something?

Got a coilpack on the way which may solve it, as i had a few issues last year and it was fixed by a coilpack but one only lasted a few months.. wiring fault or cheap coilpack.. not sure?

Any help be appreciated.

I'd start by cleaning the throttle body and replacing the spark plugs.

I'd start by cleaning the throttle body and replacing the spark plugs.

I had similar problems a few years ago, which I cured by renewing most of the hoses around the throttle body. I can't now remember which were in worst condition, but the tiny hose that connects into the air filter chamber kept coming off and I had to bodge a clamp. Good luck !

Fitted a new coilpack now, will see if it fixes it in the morning on the drive to work. The car is pretty neglected to be honest and has been abused, bullet proof though. Think it needs a drop of oil as oil light has been coming on, so will put some in tomorrow.

Fitted a new coilpack now, will see if it fixes it in the morning on the drive to work. The car is pretty neglected to be honest and has been abused, bullet proof though. Think it needs a drop of oil as oil light has been coming on, so will put some in tomorrow.

Don't wait for the pressure light to start coming on before you top it up! I replaced the fuel filter on my Favorit recently, straight forward job. The old one (original) had extremely restricted flow compared to the replacement. Worth eliminating this by fitting a new one if you are unsure when it was last replaced.

Don't wait for the pressure light to start coming on before you top it up! I replaced the fuel filter on my Favorit recently, straight forward job. The old one (original) had extremely restricted flow compared to the replacement. Worth eliminating this by fitting a new one if you are unsure when it was last replaced.

Yep, light means extreme danger the top of your engine is being starved of oil. It will come on when the oil level is well below the bottom of the dipstick.

I think the fuel filters are often neglected due to the unusual location near the exhaust heat shield.

At some point I changed the fuel filter on the Favorit I referred to above. It was badly choked with crud. It is well worth doing and not particularly difficult once you're under the car. (And that's a good opportunity to look around underneath. Also for me lying under a car is excellent relaxation !) But I don't think that was when I had the loss of power / idling problem. That Favorit has gone to the great Skoda home in the sky, or what was left of it after I stripped everything possible as spares for my present LXi PLUS, one of only 49 left running.

This would be one with a single unit injector. If you can find someone with a VAG 1552 and the appropriate lead to link to the diagnostic socket next to the carbon cannister, the ECU may have logged some codes. I've seen it before where the etched electrical track on the injector has worn away, causing running problems. This was flagged up during a code read and fixed by replacing the injector.

On the other hand it could be a dodgy fuel pump relay or pump.

Coil pack didn't fix it, air filter is pretty grimey so will get a new one tomorrow, and my diz cap looks a bit black , mate whos a mechanic says it looks like its arcing out on the top.

I was going to change the fuel filter but it was in a stupid location so didn't bother (this was last year)

Coil pack didn't fix it, air filter is pretty grimey so will get a new one tomorrow, and my diz cap looks a bit black , mate whos a mechanic says it looks like its arcing out on the top.

I was going to change the fuel filter but it was in a stupid location so didn't bother (this was last year)

Probably just the brush inside the cap worn. Having said that just replace it and the rotor arm they're cheap enough Would also consider renewing the leads, and if the plugs have had as much attention as the oil and air filter replace those too.

When replacing air filter definitely get some carb cleaner down the throttle body.

I changed plugs when i 1st got the car, never seen plugs so bad, but it could do with a decent service, the engine bay looks like this..

Have given it some TLC last weekend though..

Welded a patch on the rotting door. And new shoes and cylinders.

Replaced the dizzy cap as the central electrode had broken off... seems to rev better and go a bit further.. but it still cuts out.

Fuel filter next.

Any other ideas?

Crank sensor faulty?

^ anyway of testing?

Today it has been alot better than any other days, i got nearly all the way home before it had cut out, normally cuts out atleast 3 times before then.

So the dizzy cap has helped a little bit?

A friend mentioned something about a 'condensor' thats in the cap?

Looks quite dusty. Has it been used by the seaside or something?

There's no condensor that I'm aware of. I think a condensor is a carb engine thing.

The crank sensor is located on top of the gearbox, very obvious and easy to get to and held on with a bolt. I believe the Felicia version without a lead fits, the connector just plugs on top.

The fuel pump relay is located under a small plastic cover behind the ecu (the black box bolted to the suspension turret on the right of the photo).

Does your model have an immobiliser fitted? I.e. you have a small separate key that goes into a receptacle on the dash before the car can be started. If you do and nothing else sorts the problem - removing this may be a good idea as it cuts into the fuel pump wire, so a fault could stop that.

Its not dust, its mud, the whole engine bay is caked in it...

Tonight on the way home from work it only cut out ONCE.. it seems to be getting better some how? Think its to do with the weather, today has been drizzy and misty all day?

Really need to solve this problem.

Don't have a immobiliser

Edited 20 September, 201114 yr by S1MON-zs

hi there try the crank sensor like tom said as that will make it cut out

That pic makes it more clear. Crikey, even if someone tried off-roading in a muddy field I wouldn't have thought it would get that mucky in the engine bay. Really stuck to explain possible causes for mud. Practical joke? Flood damage?

The black stuff under the bonnet is held on with some clips/screws and can be binned. It's really only there as sound proofing.

Just from laning etc, big mud puddles and hitting them at 40mph.

Tried to give it a wash off.

It seems to be only doing it when it gets hot.. i can make it to work ok, if i turn the engine off and coast down the hills.. so can make it to work with out having to stop.

I'll get a crank sensor ordered a up, motofactors seem to be rubbish at finding the correct parts for my car, remember while ago ordered a water temp sensor they sent completely wrong one.

If you've driven it through that suspect water ingress may caused your issues. Would try cleaning the connectors with electrical contact cleaner. Give a good spray and connect, disconnect, and reconnect a few times to help remove any corossion.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Felicia-Favorit-Crankshaft-speed-position-sensor-/180728283160?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a143ec018 would fit. The one already fitted should have a lead coming from it. Unplug that and the lead left in the car plugs into the top of this. I suspect if you ordered one from a factor you'd get this type anyway.

That was back in April, was fine for ages after that.

I did have a bit of wiring issues, i sheered the reverse switch off the bottom of the gearbox.. and the two wires kept shorting out resulting in a wire or 2 burning out. But thats all been fixed.

It only does it when it gets hot..?

I'll try crank sensor.

Well tonight i think it has finally given up.. it cut out as soon as i left work which was un usual.. then again not long after and again in total 4 times and would take 5 - 10 minutes to start again.. battery was basically dead flat but then it sparked into life..

Think its time to send it to heaven.

i like the video but not very good for the car

It won't start if the crank sensor is faulty, so it could be it's finally given out.

I'll go for the crank sensor as one final hope.

Just don't understand why it only does it now and again tho and mainly when the engines hot? As surely it'll be reading the same all the time as the fly wheel spins?