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Reversing lights


0ggy

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With the nights closing in, and the weather rapidly deteriorating, I've recently noticed just how woefully inadequate Superb 2 reversing lights are.

I tend to lights touch brakes to help with illumination.

Thankfully I have reverse sensors, but it's very disconcerting when one can hardly see a darn thing going backwards in poor weather, with rear screen and side mirrors rain covered.

Does anyone else think this is a prob, abs dies anyone know if "extra" lighting us possible, or even legal?

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The Superb Lights are very good compared to some - Old Ford Focus, only one light, at the bottom of the bumper, and the PT Cruiser i used to own; one light, which had a "pink" tint to it! - Now that were useless!

I have seen some fit "Fog" lights to the rear - this is illegal. - Dont know if the CanBus will allow for a higher wattage bulb?

Al.

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Bit wary of fitting higher watt bulbs since doing so in my previous Octy caused the receptors to over heat and become brittle, and eventually crack and fall to bits (headlamp).

Was wondering if a small spotlamp with separate on/off switch to dash would be ok.

Might look a bit unsightly though.

But I do a heck of a lot of reversing in my profession.

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Was wondering if a small spotlamp with separate on/off switch to dash would be ok.

That would not be legal, from memory the maximum wattage you can have in a reversing light is 21w, a spotlight will be 55w.

As for not being able to see out of the mirrors when they are wet, simply put the heated mirrors on, this will keep the mirrors dry :thumbup:

No rear wiper? .... should of bought a combi :thumbup::giggle:

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You can get 5W ultra bright LEDs with internal resistors in a P21W case.

The clue is in the name of the bulb though P21W so you would replacing a 21w filament bulb with a 5w LED, ultra bright or not it is still 1/4 of the power, why not just fit a P21W LED in that case?

HOWEVER I have P21W SMD (LED) bulbs in my DRL's and they do not project their light in the dark anywhere near as far as the filament bulb, so yes they will produce a whiter light, but will not actually project their light as far making them less useful for the OP.

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HOWEVER I have P21W SMD (LED) bulbs in my DRL's and they do not project their light in the dark anywhere near as far as the filament bulb, so yes they will produce a whiter light, but will not actually project their light as far making them less useful for the OP.

This ^^^

For example, some people have problems with projector headlights using filament bulbs and put ever increasing wattage bulbs in. I have fallen into the same trap, when what is needed are bulbs with very precisely located filaments. Obviously if you can find correctly aligned filaments coupled with higher power you are onto a winner but they can be difficult to find in my experience, by which time you've spent the money.

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That would not be legal, from memory the maximum wattage you can have in a reversing light is 21w, a spotlight will be 55w.

As for not being able to see out of the mirrors when they are wet, simply put the heated mirrors on, this will keep the mirrors dry :thumbup:

No rear wiper? .... should of bought a combi :thumbup::giggle:

Just call it a working light, look how manny Defenders have twin work lamps on the rear as long as its independently switched it will be fine.

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Just call it a working light, look how manny Defenders have twin work lamps on the rear as long as its independently switched it will be fine.

I think what you mean is, As long as they are for "off road use only" then you'll be fine.

Al.

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You can get 5W ultra bright LEDs with internal resistors in a P21W case.

On the estate the reversing light bulb is also a W16W bulb,

I assume the twinhatch is the same as well as the manual does not specify they are for a twinhatch or combi.

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Decided against the "spot" idea, think it would look too unsightly. Maybe I could rig up some rear window lights, like the home kit high level brake lights u could buy years ago.

Deffo not going to use different bulbs though. Not the most ILLUMINATING idea to date!

Ger it, ger it......oh go back to sleep!

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All comes down to cost at the end of the day. Xmas around the corner, and all that.

Think I'll try to KISS and cheap, or do nowt about it.

Probably the latter, bearing in mind that the sensors should keep the ass end away from closing obstacles if I take my time.

Will have a chat with my local motor factors, see if they can come up with something. God knows I should have shares in that shop by now!!!

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Reversing lights are not really there to see where you are going, there intention is to show other motorists that you are reversing.

I can remember when cars did not even have them and managed perfectly fine back then.

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For a car which has such excellent forward lighting, the reversing lights are quite poor. I do seem to get more illumination from the brake lights than the reversing lights. Minor flaw in an otherwise good package.

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I reverse up my driveway about 50 ft between my house and wall. And while it's not exactly a tight squeeze, the lights pick up neither house or wall, or brilliant White caravan parked at the end of it. Useless!

But I still love the car!

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This problem is apperently the same for Mk1 and Mk2 Superbs, and is due to cluster design for "looks" instead for max useful light output. LED's won't fix it as the desing relies on reflector directing the light below the bulb.

Inspect your cluster and you will see that the bulb filament does not line up with reversing light portion of the cluster, and relies on reflector to send light down back onto the road.

I have actually just swapped stock bulbs for Philips Vision Plus ones (yes they make brighter stop/reversing bulbs) and it is a bit better.

Since reversing lights are not monitored (at least not on Mk1) and used for short periods of time only, one option would be to put a 12v to 16v or even 18V voltage converter and run the reversing bulbs at higher voltage. This will result in whiter light and a lot more light output while still keeping the scatter to minimum. Of course, it will also kill bulbs quicker.

Though at some point I just might get hold of Ebay LED fogs and mount them under rear bumper.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I found a way of further improving reversing lights for relatively low cost using IRC(HIR) halogens:

1. Get 2x G4-G6 to BA15s bulb adapters, you need low profile ones, e.g. Ancor makes ones as tall as ordinary bulb base. Most Ebay variety are too tall, the bulb would be too close to rear light cover.

2. Get 2x Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC (HIR) halogen bulbs. Shorten their pins by about 2mm so that they fit snug in the adapter

3. Replace stock bulbs with Halostars in Gx - BA15s adapters. You get 2x more light (860lm vs 460lm at 12V and Halostarts get a lot more efficient with voltage) and it is a very visible improvement. Halostars have longitudinal filament, but it does not matter for rear lights as they spread beam evenly. Lifetime is 4000hrs at 12V

(optional) 4. If you want to take this mod further, start with Osram Halostar GY6.35 25W IRC capsules and then put dc-dc converter from 12 to 15V onto reversing lights only. You will get 3x output of stock bulb, 35w power consumption and about 200hr lifetime.

Hope this helps, cost of this mod is under stlg20 incl delivery, you probably could do it under a tenner if you order some other stuff from suppliers.

No LEDs that I know of project comparable amount of light in BA15S guise at 12V in reversing lights as these IRC Halostars (tried several over the years).

I also experimented with R8 halogen reflectors and Gx-Ba15s, they're good at throwing reversing lights beam further away (without blinding), but not good enough because of only 300 lumen output. 35W Halostars work much better.

If anyone knows of IRC/HIR Halostars being made in R8 size reflector (that fits rear cluster openings), please let me know.

Edited by dieselV6
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  • 2 weeks later...

I found a way of further improving reversing lights for relatively low cost using IRC(HIR) halogens:

1. Get 2x G4-G6 to BA15s bulb adapters, you need low profile ones, e.g. Ancor makes ones as tall as ordinary bulb base. Most Ebay variety are too tall, the bulb would be too close to rear light cover.

2. Get 2x Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC (HIR) halogen bulbs. Shorten their pins by about 2mm so that they fit snug in the adapter

3. Replace stock bulbs with Halostars in Gx - BA15s adapters. You get 2x more light (860lm vs 460lm at 12V and Halostarts get a lot more efficient with voltage) and it is a very visible improvement. Halostars have longitudinal filament, but it does not matter for rear lights as they spread beam evenly. Lifetime is 4000hrs at 12V

(optional) 4. If you want to take this mod further, start with Osram Halostar GY6.35 25W IRC capsules and then put dc-dc converter from 12 to 15V onto reversing lights only. You will get 3x output of stock bulb, 35w power consumption and about 200hr lifetime.

Hope this helps, cost of this mod is under stlg20 incl delivery, you probably could do it under a tenner if you order some other stuff from suppliers.

No LEDs that I know of project comparable amount of light in BA15S guise at 12V in reversing lights as these IRC Halostars (tried several over the years).

I also experimented with R8 halogen reflectors and Gx-Ba15s, they're good at throwing reversing lights beam further away (without blinding), but not good enough because of only 300 lumen output. 35W Halostars work much better.

If anyone knows of IRC/HIR Halostars being made in R8 size reflector (that fits rear cluster openings), please let me know.

Actually, we have in Superb II a R955 12V 16W W16W bulb not BA15s, so no need for adaptor. You can fit Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC (HIR) halogen bulbs straight in. Only the bulb legs are little bit thin to fit secure, you can add more »meat« by soldering. If you think going from 16W to 35W is too much radical, you can try Osram Halostar ECO 64429 12V 25W GY6.35. I changed mine whit 35W and it’s a huge difference.

R955 12V 16W W16W955-edit-750.jpg

Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC (HIR)irc%20bipin300.jpg

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LED are bright but they do not 'throw' that light as far as the filament bulds.

I had faced the same problem with low light while reversing.

Solved this problem by installing a Reverse camera with small monitor on the dashboard. (will take pictures later to show).

After installing the camera, it really helped a great deal not only parking at night but also for parking in tight spaces.

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Actually, we have in Superb II a R955 12V 16W W16W bulb not BA15s, so no need for adaptor. You can fit Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC (HIR) halogen bulbs straight in. Only the bulb legs are little bit thin to fit secure, you can add more »meat« by soldering. If you think going from 16W to 35W is too much radical, you can try Osram Halostar ECO 64429 12V 25W GY6.35. I changed mine whit 35W and it’s a huge difference.

R955 12V 16W W16W955-edit-750.jpg

Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC (HIR)irc%20bipin300.jpg

Thanks, W16W makes it even easier. Yes, I tried on Mk1 Superb, hence BA15s, but the problem has been there since Octavia Mk1 times.

The only thing about Halostars is that they actually give best light output whilst keeping lifetime acceptable (tens of hours) at 15V or so. At normal car voltages (12V-14V) the light is a bit yellow (think fog lights). I wish they made a 9V/25W version of Halostars, that'd probably be 2000lm at 13.5V/40W and still 20hrs+ lifetime.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Any suggestions on what w16w to get?, from what i read in another thread this is a good buld to get "Osram Halostar GY6.35 35W IRC" however i´m having trouble finding a seller on ebay that ships them to sweden.

 

ideas on another bulb with similar watts

 

tnx /b

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