Hi folkes on what seems to be my never ending search for my octavia's fault. When the car went in to skoda on the recall for coil packs they ran a diagnostics check and the 'afm' fault came up so I have replaced this today and stlill have the problem of juddering and flat spots do I need to get the computer to reset my car now I have replaced the part ? Any help as always greatly appreceated :-)

You shouldn't need the ECU reset.

If you have the old type black coolant temp sensor fitted change it for a genuine green CTS, & remove & clean the throttle body.

Hi folkes on what seems to be my never ending search for my octavia's fault. When the car went in to skoda on the recall for coil packs they ran a diagnostics check and the 'afm' fault came up so I have replaced this today and stlill have the problem of juddering and flat spots do I need to get the computer to reset my car now I have replaced the part ? Any help as always greatly appreceated :-)

As mentioned should not need reset ECU, your ECU should be capable of relearning the changed parameters as you are driving at various throttle speeds. You could unplug battery or fuse #5 for 10 min then replug and see how that goes.

Thanks guys I will give these a try gettin really fed up of it now

You really could do with finding a good independent garage as in my experience main dealers are useless at problem solving & fixing things. If their diagnostic computer doesn't tell them what to do they are lost.

Is the coolant temp sensor the plug on the top of the water bottle ? If so mine is black what's the difference between the black and green ??

From what PD says, the green one is OEM where as the black one (I am guessing) is after market.

CTS is housed on the engine block end of the rad top hose with a connector on the top, & is secured with a C clip. Black CTS is OEM, but was notorious for failing so VAG revised the part which is now green.

Edited 8 November, 201114 yr by pauldazzle

and the connector on the coolant bottle (post #6) is the coolant level sensor, which isn't the CTS (just for anyone who isn't aware).

Thanks I will look at this tomorrow.

Yep think I found it right hand side on engine below engine cover on rad hose its green so that's ok , new tb gasket ordered for tomorrow so that will be getting done next

Yep think I found it right hand side on engine below engine cover on rad hose its green so that's ok , new tb gasket ordered for tomorrow so that will be getting done next

That's ok if it's a genuine VAG green CTS, but if it's aftermarket probably not.

Don't forget when you clean the throttle body you must not push the butterfly flap open. Leave it plugged in with the ignition on & get some one to hold the throttle pedal down or wedge it down while you clean it.

Edited 9 November, 201114 yr by pauldazzle

Thanks pd. My mate is gonna give me a hand and I will look to see if that ct is genuine vag

So after replacing 4 coilpacks,de-catting ,fitting a boxless centre exhaust,new afm,fully servicing the car cleaning the throttle body and running it through 3 computers I'm still no further forward to finding my flat spot problems.

Now admitedly it is loads better but it still happening so I'm still not happy and I'm still stumped :(

Sell the car to me for 1K, that will cure all your probems!

So after replacing 4 coilpacks,de-catting ,fitting a boxless centre exhaust,new afm,fully servicing the car cleaning the throttle body and running it through 3 computers I'm still no further forward to finding my flat spot problems.

Now admitedly it is loads better but it still happening so I'm still not happy and I'm still stumped :(

What about the CTS, did you find out if it's a VAG part?

No forgot bwt that one, basicly its worse when the engines cold but when it heats up its not as bad but if you keep your foot down after it splutters and backfires etc it picks back up and regains speed or if you take your foot off the throttle and ease back on its ok ?

Failing CTS causes all sorts of running problems as the ECU is getting wrong temp info & doesn't fuel correctly.

Well been back to skoda today they ran a free diagagnostics again but they seem to think a leaky boost pipe or intake pipe so ebay for some samco's I think and hope and pray this will fettle the old girl.

Well been back to skoda today they ran a free diagagnostics again but they seem to think a leaky boost pipe or intake pipe so ebay for some samco's I think and hope and pray this will fettle the old girl.

Ha ha its the claw!!!!!!!

Sarah

I've said it once already & so I'll repeat it!!!

You really could do with finding a good independent garage as in my experience main dealers are useless at problem solving & fixing things. If their diagnostic computer doesn't tell them what to do they are lost.

A smoke test would show up any boost or vacuum leaks. A Skoda dealer wouldn't usually have that sort of equipment. You could easily spend a load of money throwing parts at the problem, & still not solve it.

My bet is an independent VAG specialist would quickly get to the bottom of the problem.

Have you ascertained whether you have a genuine CTS in it yet? Unless the CTS has gone open circuit diagnostics won't show a fault.

The claw ? ? ?

Sorry pauldazzle I wasn't being ignorant I don't know of any good vag ppl where I live I have had it to 1 independant garage but he didn't know much too, yes the cts is a gen part my mate has a tool for boost leak testing so next thu he will do that for me and go from there baisicly I do appreceate all the help and advice I'm receiving

Sorry pauldazzle I wasn't being ignorant I don't know of any good vag ppl where I live I have had it to 1 independant garage but he didn't know much too, yes the cts is a gen part my mate has a tool for boost leak testing so next thu he will do that for me and go from there baisicly I do appreceate all the help and advice I'm receiving

I would still replace the CTS even though it is gen as PD states these have a bad rep certainly for making car run like a bag of ****e on cold start . And as you stated it runs better when warm. I had very poor running when mine went. When they go they can fool the ECU to thinking the car is warm when it is not and thus the 5th injector will not spray extra fuel to richen up cold start running. This may explain why you car runs better when warm as the extra fuel is not used then. At the cost of £22 replace it. (2 minute job)

Cheers m8 I will order one monday from my main dealers.