Make the tickover really lumpy?

It's not all the time but if you sit in the car stationary it will always start.

The EGR valve is leaking oil which is apparently a dodgy diaphragm and I was wondering if the two could be related?

Thanks

Ive gt a egr kit of a car if u need a new 1 it can cause lumpy tick ova as the oil is leakinin into places it shudnt

What model of car would help, petrol or diesel

Oops, sorry it's a VRS.

Oops, sorry it's a VRS.

EGR cuts off after 2 minutes idle, if it's still lumpy after that time, it's most likely something else.

Has the cambelt been changed recently? If so, have the syncro angle checked with VCDS/VAGCOM, it should be 0 +/- 2, and is typically -0.6 if the cam and crank sprockets are lined up correctly.

It can also be camshaft and or bucket tappet wear, if anything other than the correct PD oil has been used at each service.

The oil leak from the EGR is PCV blow-by oil, and it only goes onto the rocker cover. The oil indicates the EGR valve is faulty and should be replaced.

A full code scan may indicate any other problems.

If it's a BLT engine, they run very lean at idle, which does give some engine shudder. That can be fixed with VCDS, by raising the idle speed to 890 RPM.

Engine coolant must be above 80c before VCDS will allow you to alter the idle speed.

EDIT: Does the idle smooth out if you turn the aircon on? if it does, there's nothing you can do about it, it's simply lean running for emissions if it's a BLT engine code.

well the oil is a leaking seal which won't affect the diaphram however if this is fairly high milage -has it ever been cleaned? it may just be stickky---at idle and normal temp the egr is programmed to cycle open/close at idle approx every 2 minutes

EGR cuts off after 2 minutes idle, if it's still lumpy after that time, it's most likely something else.

Has the cambelt been changed recently? If so, have the syncro angle checked with VCDS/VAGCOM, it should be 0 +/- 2, and is typically -0.6 if the cam and crank sprockets are lined up correctly.

It can also be camshaft and or bucket tappet wear, if anything other than the correct PD oil has been used at each service.

The oil leak from the EGR is PCV blow-by oil, and it only goes onto the rocker cover. The oil indicates the EGR valve is faulty and should be replaced.

A full code scan may indicate any other problems.

If it's a BLT engine, they run very lean at idle, which does give some engine shudder. That can be fixed with VCDS, by raising the idle speed to 890 RPM.

Engine coolant must be above 80c before VCDS will allow you to alter the idle speed.

EDIT: Does the idle smooth out if you turn the aircon on? if it does, there's nothing you can do about it, it's simply lean running for emissions if it's a BLT engine code.

That is an awesome reply - thanks.

I checked this morning and after 3 mins it still does it so I guess that rules the EGR out.

The cambelt was changed by the dealer when I bought it!!

I have VAGCOM so will find out how you do it and check what you said tonight.

Thanks again.

Right then, I failed at being able to work vagcom to find this reading.

However thats probably not important because I turned the A/C on and it was all of a sudden smooth!!!

So is this correct...

Its caused by running lean for emmisions, turn the A/C on and it richens the mixture and causes it to be smooth?

If thats the case and I got a custom map, could they change the idle mixture so I dont feel like my love eggs are going off sat in traffic?

Thanks again.

The BLT engine always had a slight judder at idle due to emission regs, and it stopped when the aircon was turned on, as the ECU then injects more fuel to account for the aircon pump compression. However, for some reason, a lot of people say the judder gets worse after the cambelt is changed, hence why checking the syncro angle is important, although incorrect fitting of the cambelt is almost impossible, if the correct locking tools are used.

My 2007 SE VRS does it, but not when cold or fully warmed up, it just judders a little, when the engine is coming up to full operating temperature, stops if I turn on aircon or heated rear window.

A decent map company could probably dial in a higher fuel injection quantity at idle, not sure though. I haven't gone that deep using VCDS as it's no big deal for me.