Personally,

I don't think my 1.8T has ever been 100% right in the 2 years i've owned it, however now its got to the point where it stalled upon driving down the street 50m or so.

Trying to restart it, it just wasn't kicking in, as if the sparks were not firing, or the fuel was not getting to engine,

I managed to get to a small section of hill with enough speed enough to bump it in first gear, car drove "ok" until ASDA. (2 Miles away), stopped the engine, restarted and it was fine.

The cars always been erratic on startup/acceleration when cold especially, however i've endured it as I don't drive very fast these days, and 2 i've changed varrying parts which is maybe have a placebo effect after ti've changed them.

Parts Changed/Fixed: Spark Plugs, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned TB, the "Y" Hoses coming from the MAF that are prone to splitting, Secondary Air Pump (Rivets removed and replaced with bolts), Air Filter, Oil change etc.

I really want it fixed now and Have no idea what to do next, any ideas? I was tempted to drive by a car dealer on the way home with asking serious enquireis about a new car.

Many Thanks

Iain

Temp sensor, coil packs or maf

At a rough guess, have a look at our VCDS owner map and get a scan done for fault codes first.

I bet it's nothing too complicated

Aside from Coil Packs, would this cause it to stall ?

Got a temp sensor in the door pocket of my car, havne't got round to changing it yet. Job for tomorrow morning I think.

Aside from Coil Packs, would this cause it to stall ?

Got a temp sensor in the door pocket of my car, havne't got round to changing it yet. Job for tomorrow morning I think.

If the temp sensor is on the fritz, it could send incorrect info to ecu which may cause ecu to think car is hot when cold or vice versa, so it may bang more/less fuel and cause problems.

Same with maf, incorrect figures for airflow causing same effect for fueling

Engine temp sensor could cause ECU to think engine is hot when cold or vice versa. Don't rely on the guage, because the sensor outputs 2 channels.

Dud MAF just makes it run like a bag of spanners as a rule. Testing is easy though; unplug the MAF and if the engine runs better, buy a new genuine one.

If you can get over to Ossett/Wakefield I have vagcom, but I bet there will be someone closer to you. We can test the MAF, coilpacks and coolant sensor etc, and see if there are any fault codes stored on it.

Id the engine management light or traction control light on?

Edited 10 November, 201114 yr by rk696

Coolant Temp Sensor.

Had a similar problem with mine before I sold it, The day before I sold it it wouldnt start at all called out the RAC and the chap sat there for ten minutes scanning it and fiddling it. And then said relay (I think he said fuel pump relay) he whipped it out took it apart resoldered something inside???? popped it back in and car started straight up. New owner of the car has had no issues with it at all. So maybe worth a look there?

When dealer was looking into the problem previously they had said ECU was at fault and then the engine harness.

Many thanks to everyone for there comments,

The Engine Management Light isn't on, and neither is the traction control light.

First point i'll try is the Temp Coolant sensor then! Then I might have to take an offer (For a few beer tokens of course) for a VAGCOM scan.

Many Thanks all!

MAF And Coolant Sensor changed,

The Revs were astonishingly High, 1,500 RPM after starting the car with new MAF, although I must admit it seemed to be running better when it wasn't plugged in.

Is there any "bedding in" Time whilst the ECU responds to any changes?

Many Thanks

It will take a few driving cycles for the ECU to adapt fully.

Did you get genuine VAG parts? Aftermarket MAF's in particular are notoriously bad.

I'm guessing I Should have gone to the stealers then? I got a Bosch one from GSF :/

Well I bought a MAF from GSF a few years ago, & when I fitted to my Golf mk4 the car was undriveable. Promptly took it back & bought one from TPS, & all was fine.

I'll see how this one "Beds in" and then take it from there, see if there's any change after the ECU cycles etc. Then i'll bite the bullet and go to the stealers :/

Can't believe a BOSCH one from GSF would be any less effective than a Genuine one.

Yeah, the Bosch should be ok, but???

Try unplugging the MAF again, & see if it runs better. If it does then you still have an issue with the MAF.

Coil Packs changed under the recall, Coolant Sensor and MAF changed, Seems to be running alot smoother! But i'll give it a few cold starts and make a decision from there

Ok, so it hasn't fixed it.

Getting to the end of my tether with this now.

Really have no idea which direction to go in, terrible around Idle to 2,000 RPM :(

Have you had a diagnostic scan done yet?

Got a VAG Com Cable at home and going to do a code read when I get home at 4:30, then I'll let you know what comes up

Error Codes, Can't do a fullscan as that requires a purchase :/

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.1

Monday, 26 December 2011, 20:28:06.

Chassis Type: 1U - Skoda Octavia I

Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,56,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906

Controller: 06A 906 032 HN

Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0002

Coding: 11500

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 7195

2 Faults Found:

17704 - Error in Mapped Cooling System (check Temp-Sensor and Thermostat)

P1296 - 35-00 - -

16486 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs

P0102 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1C0-907-37x-ASR.LBL

Controller: 1C0 907 379 K

Component: ASR FRONT MK60 0103

Coding: 0021505

Shop #: WSC 31480

VCID: 321799CBED21

No fault code found.

However the engine one is above....

Edited 26 December, 201114 yr by TommyT85

I think that speaks for itself

Try a genuine temp sensor first. Don't biother with copies as they are 5hite

unplug maf and see what it does

what you really need to do is do some logs via vagcom this WILL tell you your problem!!!

the reason there is a code reader is to diagnose these issues without having to change everypart going pretty simple really sorry to sound blunt but guys on here can only guess at common issues !!!

Yup, changed the temp sensor for a "Green" one from GSF as mentioned in Post 2. I've still got the old one, so first i'll make sure the wire is properly secure aswell as the sensor itself.

Genuine temp sensor from VAG itself ?

I'll have a look at the fuel relay over the next couple of days.

Thanks all.

I think i'm going genuine for all parts from now on, if there's a problem with this MAF I will not be happy :S

have you unplugged the maf and tried to drive it with it unplugged?? if yes what did it do ???