Here we go again...

Having recently changed the glow plugs and the coolant temp sensor, my Octavia still has trouble starting.

If it's from cold, you need to engage the ignition, turn it right round as if you're trying to crank the engine and then bring it back slightly before it fires. There's no sound of the starter trying to crank, no sounds at all in fact. The only way it starts- from cold- is if you turn it fully, then bring it back slightly... it's very annoying.

Any ideas? Getting annoyed now.

Sounds almost like an ignition switch problem. Here's a similer thread from last year m8 though they seemed to think it may of been battery problems My link

It does seem that way, all the lights disappear as per usual. Glow plugs light goes out almost instantly, there's no immobiliser symbol (the car with the key in it?), no other warning signs... it's like the car's just like, 'meh... not wanna go out... cold...'. The thing is, after a long run she's OK, she starts almost straight away. It's so odd.

I've narrowed it down to a few things...

1) Ignition problem, as Raf said. But this wouldn't explain why she starts again after being run for a bit.

2) Fuelling system. Takes a while to prime maybe? But is fine once run.

3) Battery. Would the cold affect it?

4) Thermostat, as the car has serious difficulty starting with a cold engine.

Just... argh. I really like this car, but there's so many small niggles that just annoy me! Problem with moving from Honda... nothing ever goes wrong... think I've spent the fuel difference on new bloody parts now. :'(

The cold can effect battries.

Got the follwing from yahoo answers i'm rubbish at explaining things!

1. Car batteries hold less of a charge at low temperatures, so there is less energy available to start the engine.

2. Lubricating oils become more viscous at low temperatures, increasing friction between moving parts. The moving parts themselves contract in the cold, increasing tolerances and in theory reducing friction (as well as efficiency), but these dimensional changes are small compared to the effect of the loss of adequate lubrication.

- Sticky starter motor

- Weak battery

- Corrosion/high resistance in the leads to the starter motor (poor crimp joints) (check the fusebox on the battery too for the signs of melting plastic)

Once you get the car sorted she will be good to you..... Mine gives me pretty much trouble free motoring (given the distance I travel, I think it is amazing).

It ain't that cold down on the south coast yet!

- Sticky starter motor

- Weak battery

- Corrosion/high resistance in the leads to the starter motor (poor crimp joints) (check the fusebox on the battery too for the signs of melting plastic)

Once you get the car sorted she will be good to you..... Mine gives me pretty much trouble free motoring (given the distance I travel, I think it is amazing).

It ain't that cold down on the south coast yet!

The leads are all absolutely fine, I checked those already! As is the fusebox...

The starter motor seems OK, as the car does fire perfectly when it's been on a run. Usually takes around 3-4 hours for it to apparently cool down enough to not start without fiddling about with the key.

I heard some mumblings about solenoids and aftermarket stereos causing problems, any thoughts on this?

The car is already good to me, love driving the car... it does well on fuel, it's comfortable, it even is quite fun to drive!

Raf- posted your armrest today! Should be with you soon. Sent Recorded Delivery.

Thanks m8

I was wondering if there could possibly be a relay that could be sticking when cold?

Thanks m8

I was wondering if there could possibly be a relay that could be sticking when cold?

I've looked into the 'relay 109' thing and the car doesn't have the weird little immobiliser system causing problems. It just doesn't seem to like starting. I mean... I'm not very happy to be woken up either, but I still do it every bloody day!

Battery , battery once it starts to die , just does not have the cranking power , next you will see the ABS light fliker , Try a new one .

When my battery failed it gave me no signs, just one day it was dead, but I would tend to go for battery if the crimps and cables look ok.

If you have another car, connect the two up with jump leads when you know yours will be bad and see if it starts properly then. If it starts well then, that points to the battery.

Thanks guys. May spell the end of my Xenon problems too... if I'm feeling lucky! Any recommendations for battery?

I picked up one from Euro Car Parts (think it was them) when I was up in Swindon one day. I think you can get 25% off using a discount code from here. Just get the one with the same physical dimensions so it sits nicely in the tray and plastic work and cables fit, and is the same or greater capacity.

My new battery is a fraction large, but the car was missing the battery surround trim, so that did not matter Anything over 70Ah should do the job I think.

Cheers Matt. I'm missing the battery top cover too... so not too fussed! Hope you liked your CDs by the way.

Battery changed.

Car still doesn't start properly.

Now tempted to push it off a cliff.

When you changed your CTS did you get a proper part, or a cheap ebay one? Maybe it is time to get your car scanned for fault codes.

Rather than pushing it off a cliff (probably as it won't start), just leave it at my place and I'll strip off all the nice L&K bits! Infact get it here tonight and I have my winter tyres fitted to your alloys

It's a good part, I researched it and checked with a local mechanic. Plus, the car had the starting problem before I changed the sensor!

For what it's worth, this is what it's like starting my car...

1) get in, shut door, put key in ignition.

2) turn key to second ignition position, check nothing's on, wait for glow plug light to extinguish (takes about a second).

3) turn ignition on, all the way. Nothing happens. I can hear something prime..?

4) jiggle ignition between the second ignition position and the on position. Usually right near the beginning it'll catch. Takes a good half minute usually.

5) drive off feeling disgruntled.

Matthew, you can't strip Octimus for parts when she is started she's a joy! Just such hard work to her going...

Do diesels have an electric fuel pump that primes when you open the driver's door like on a vrs? Just thinking when you say something primes maybe it's something to do with that?

I couldn't tell you Raf, I'm pretty new to both diesels and Skodas! It's like I can hear something trying to work... then the start motor will cough a little bit... then with a little more jiggling it bursts into life with typical vim and vigour.

Hope you liked your CDs by the way.

I listened to the second one yesterday and realised they were both the same... Not bad though, well to have been generated from a mac at least

It's a good part, I researched it and checked with a local mechanic. Plus, the car had the starting problem before I changed the sensor!

Fair enough, and it sounds like you may have a different problem from the next bit anyway.

3) turn ignition on, all the way. Nothing happens. I can hear something prime..?

4) jiggle ignition between the second ignition position and the on position. Usually right near the beginning it'll catch. Takes a good half minute usually.

3. I'll have a listen to mine, normally the stereo comes on when the I turn the ignition on

4. Does the engine turn over and fail to catch, or just fail to turn over? if the latter then I would wonder if the ignition barrel (or some of the control electrics (109 relay?) was faulty. The former points to either glow plugs, lack of fuel (when was the fuel filter last drained/changed), slow starter, dodgy battery, dodgy cabling - I know some of these parts have been replaced / checked, but I mention it for completeness.

Matthew, you can't strip Octimus for parts when she is started she's a joy! Just such hard work to her going...

The best things take a while to get going :p Anyway, I would promise to strip her nicely in the privacy of my garage

Do diesels have an electric fuel pump that primes when you open the driver's door like on a vrs? Just thinking when you say something primes maybe it's something to do with that?

The diesels don't prime on the door opening, or not that I am aware of, I have never heard my 110 do this, and it lives in a garage away from other sources of noise. Will check this later today when I take her to get her winter rubber fitted.

Ignition & main light switches are cheap if you fancy some random component replacement - little bit of a job to fit the former though. Your 2 issues are possibly related (don't ask me how!) reading some comments found via google.

Sam have you got access to a laptop? A cheap odb cable and free vcds you should be able to see what's causing the problem?

Sam have you got access to a laptop? A cheap odb cable and free vcds you should be able to see what's causing the problem?

He only has access to one of those fruit laptops....

I listened to the second one yesterday and realised they were both the same... Not bad though, well to have been generated from a mac at least

Fair enough, and it sounds like you may have a different problem from the next bit anyway.

3. I'll have a listen to mine, normally the stereo comes on when the I turn the ignition on

4. Does the engine turn over and fail to catch, or just fail to turn over? if the latter then I would wonder if the ignition barrel (or some of the control electrics (109 relay?) was faulty. The former points to either glow plugs, lack of fuel (when was the fuel filter last drained/changed), slow starter, dodgy battery, dodgy cabling - I know some of these parts have been replaced / checked, but I mention it for completeness.

The best things take a while to get going :p Anyway, I would promise to strip her nicely in the privacy of my garage

The diesels don't prime on the door opening, or not that I am aware of, I have never heard my 110 do this, and it lives in a garage away from other sources of noise. Will check this later today when I take her to get her winter rubber fitted.

Haha! I had a listen for the first time in ages the other day and it appears there's some pretty serious clipping on some tracks :( I'm going to burn the rest now! :'(

Going back to 3, the stereo does come on. I can hear other stuff doing things as well- a sloshing sound?

Regarding 4, it fails to turn over at all. I hear nothing. I'm thinking the ignition barrel, as if you do move around in that position (kind of like fumbling for a light switch in the dark), the car catches and fires up totally normally. I recently changed the glow plugs for brand spankers NGK ones, and a brand new battery was installed last night. The last full service (presumably fuel filter) was done at around 120,000 miles, so around 7,000 miles ago.

Sam have you got access to a laptop? A cheap odb cable and free vcds you should be able to see what's causing the problem?

2S2F- my girlfriend has one of those Windows thingies, I'm one of them 'orrible Macolites... as Matt very kindly pointed out. :p could you point me in the right direction towards such trinkets?

Ignition & main light switches are cheap if you fancy some random component replacement - little bit of a job to fit the former though. Your 2 issues are possibly related (don't ask me how!) reading some comments found via google.

I'm intrigued... tell me more...

The car now has two main issues:

1) The Xenon Problem. The light now fails to work at all. I have a pair of brand new Philips 6000k (I know, I'm a tit) bulbs sitting on my desk. I shall fit them on Sunday.

2) The Starting Problem. I've now spoken (at great length, whether you wanted me to or not) regarding all the symptoms and my own hypotheses on the matter, plus attempted fixes.

New parts so far:

1) Battery (Yuasa)

2) Glow plugs (NGK)

3) Coolant sensor (Hans Pries Topran)

It's just so annoying. I got in the car tonight, sank down into my lovely heated leather seats, got the car going and thoroughly enjoyed my drive back. It's so punchy, comfortable and reassuring... just ruined currently by the niggles. Fingers crossed eh!

I bought my odb usb cable from an eBay seller called beat the garage. It was about £8.

A better investment long term would be a proper Ross Tech cable.

Or look to see if there is a member near you with vcds.

An even better idea, take it to Shark, get Ben to remap it to 160 bhp for you, then while you're there get him to look into it!