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Spark plug change

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Oh well, if NGK are using that tool, and recording it, for their technical training dvds they must be doing it wrong.. aha. i dont know how extreme when youre gapping your plugs, but im pretty gentle..

tbh, i did use both, feeler gaauge to double check. if youve never used the circular wire one give it a go, its a treat! started using them when i had my ped as my feeler gauge went missing and it has been great since.

 

Oh, not saying they are doing it wrong of course :) Just personal preference I think - old habits die hard and all that ;)

Hard enough reading and replying without quoting.  I am an old person.

Asking the question right after your post was enough for me. 

 

I would keep an eye on those sparkplugs,  they have proved not to last so long with some members.

Hard enough reading and replying without quoting.  I am an old person.

Asking the question right after your post was enough for me. 

 

I would keep an eye on those sparkplugs,  they have proved not to last so long with some members.

 

I thought these were the ones Revo specified to use on remapped cars?

what plugs would you use?

tbh the car has been running better and better since fitting these :)

i will no doubt after experiencing, be able to tell when this is going bad this time round :)

i dont mind changing every couple of thousand miles if needs be, i do only do town driving with the occasional drive to my parents down england..

£28 for a set is a great price!

matthewl,      

I pay Double that price for 4,

 but then they are reliable for double the time i think with over 190 ps in a Twincharger.

 

& REVO advice was not great on Sparkplugs, because it did not help that cars with their Stage 1 having Misfires,

& Customers removing their Stage 1 Map.

 

 

 

I bought these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350592387058?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

I had been suffering from quite violent missfires so I gapped mine to .55 as nothing was stated on the advertisement or the box when they turned up.

I had read that people were gapping them between .55-.65 on seatcupra.net...

 

imo youre an idiot (not you) if you dont check and gap them yourself when you take them out of the box...

I.e one was .75 two were .65 and one was .8 when i checked the gaps. same with countless other plugs in the past, even when i had a high comp 2t moped and it needed a fresh plug every 1500ish miles, i cant think of one which was the exact same as the one previously put in.

 

.55 has been fine for me and my car.

 

 

Ok but what is the reason for the .55 - .65 gap, scientifically speaking? What determines the appropriate gap for each engine/engine state?

£28 for a set is a great price!

 

tell me about it!

 

you wouldnt believe it though, i managed to find them cheaper but the listing seems to have gone, they were up for £22 with free P+P! i was gutted haha!

Ok but what is the reason for the .55 - .65 gap, scientifically speaking? What determines the appropriate gap for each engine/engine state?

 

look, im not a scientist/mechanical/automotive engineer,

my car is mapped. I had pretty aggressive misfires. i looked online, found what plugs people were running, found what gap they were running. fitted them and had zero issues with it since.

 

if you want scientific ill try help with as much as i can, to my understanding the more power/higher boost, smaller the gap needs to be. as when you increase compression/boost the spark tends to be too weak and can blow out. if you get misfires you can gradually decrease the gap until the misfire goes away, if that doesnt work, its new/uprated coil pack time. thats without going into plug temp ranges.

 

if you're still confused get on google and do a search. 

if youre really interested in this give a Graham Bell book a read. these are really good, especially the 2t books, they helped quite a bit with flowing and porting.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/A.-Graham-Bell/e/B001K89VEC/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1/277-9144905-9969742

 

when i was running my high comp 2t scooter i was running between .15-.20 gap. whereas standard gap on that engine was .45

Just be aware that some of these historic posts with Spark Plugs, gaps, Revo Maps etc are about cars that later had Misfires, High Oil Use, Engine Failures

& rebuilds or replacement Engines were fitted,

& are no longer owned or driven by those same people.

Reliability is the issue, and fitting good Plugs @ the Correct Gap, & good Coils. Also good fluids and filters counts for much. JMO.

Ok but what is the reason for the .55 - .65 gap, scientifically speaking? What determines the appropriate gap for each engine/engine state?

 

They design ignition system and spark plugs to suit the engine. They know how much mixture has to be ignited and how many times a second and they choose spark plug type and power of the ignition system to provide the spark.

Top end is limiting factor. At low revs the gap can be massive since ignition event occurs at relatively long intervals. But then at high revs fuel is ignited 3.5k per second (at 7k rpm red line). Ignition system provides a finite amount of power. With large gap the spark energy at low revs is say 20MJ (Mega Joules). The same gap at high revs with very frequent ignition event the spark energy goes down to say 0.5MJ (figures pulled out of the hat) since ignition system from the same energy available has to produce so many more sparks. Lower the gap and low revs spark energy will be waay much more than needed but at high end it will be enough. Add more fuel and boost and more energy still will be required so without changing your ignition system to high power capacitor type there is a limit of how much can you tune your car up. 

The paradox is in the fact that you would actually want as big a gap between electrodes as possible as this encourages bigger initial flame front (kernel) leading to more complete combustion and more power. For example Top Fuel dragsters use two plugs per pot each arcing from separate MSD Magnetos at with 44Amps!!! This is as much as your garage arc welder :D. They need it to ignite 0.5l of 90% nitromethane (RC model Nitro cars run on max 10% Nitro) pumped into each pot every second at 8,4k rpm running 1.7:1 AFR's :D

 

Luckily we do not have such problems and decreasing the gap by 0.1mm - 0.2mm should do the trick. 

There are other issues like combustion chamber design, spray pattern, intake and exhaust manifold design which influence the spark but those very few of us will be dong anything about ;)

look, im not a scientist/mechanical/automotive engineer,

my car is mapped. I had pretty aggressive misfires. i looked online, found what plugs people were running, found what gap they were running. fitted them and had zero issues with it since.

 

if you want scientific ill try help with as much as i can, to my understanding the more power/higher boost, smaller the gap needs to be. as when you increase compression/boost the spark tends to be too weak and can blow out. if you get misfires you can gradually decrease the gap until the misfire goes away, if that doesnt work, its new/uprated coil pack time. thats without going into plug temp ranges.

 

if you're still confused get on google and do a search. 

if youre really interested in this give a Graham Bell book a read. these are really good, especially the 2t books, they helped quite a bit with flowing and porting.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/A.-Graham-Bell/e/B001K89VEC/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1/277-9144905-9969742

 

when i was running my high comp 2t scooter i was running between .15-.20 gap. whereas standard gap on that engine was .45

 

That's fine. We often follow forum advice without worrying too much how and why it is recommened to do so. From your earlier posts you sounded like you had a pretty strong view on the plugs gap and its importance so that's why I thought it was a good chance to learn something more about it. I passed my Thermodynamics and IC engines classes 15 years ago so my memory is not that fresh and I doubt we even learned the importance of the spark plug gap at all, it was not an automotive engineer's school anyway. If I came across a technical explanation on the subject I would probably be able to follow it, if not, cross-checking forum advice will do for me as well...  ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

look, im not a scientist/mechanical/automotive engineer,

my car is mapped. I had pretty aggressive misfires. i looked online, found what plugs people were running, found what gap they were running. fitted them and had zero issues with it since.

 

if you want scientific ill try help with as much as i can, to my understanding the more power/higher boost, smaller the gap needs to be. as when you increase compression/boost the spark tends to be too weak and can blow out. if you get misfires you can gradually decrease the gap until the misfire goes away, if that doesnt work, its new/uprated coil pack time. thats without going into plug temp ranges.

 

if you're still confused get on google and do a search. 

if youre really interested in this give a Graham Bell book a read. these are really good, especially the 2t books, they helped quite a bit with flowing and porting.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/A.-Graham-Bell/e/B001K89VEC/ref=ntt_athr_dp_pel_1/277-9144905-9969742

 

when i was running my high comp 2t scooter i was running between .15-.20 gap. whereas standard gap on that engine was .45

 

 

 

 

G. Bell is the Grand Daddy of all tuners! Check out the prices for Forced Induction book!!!

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Forced-Induction-Performance-Tuning-H691/dp/1859606911/ref=la_B001K89VEC_1_4/275-4441388-2648112?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1405953247&sr=1-4

Exactly :)

  • 4 years later...
On 05/07/2014 at 19:21, antbVRS88 said:

I bought a vag coil pack removal tool and the coils came out easy £20odd for the tool happy days.

Anybody in Manchester area struggling can borrow it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You still got it mate? Cheers 

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