Yesterday I had a mobile mechanic come round and change the front springs on my car while I was away at work. I've just tried driving the car and I now have to steer 1/8th on turn left to get the car to go in a straight line!

The drivers side wheel is clearly pointing outwards when the steering is straight (toeing out).

I've phoned him and he's coming back tomorrow to have a look tomorrow. He told me all he'd done was remove the strut and then refit with the new springs. He says he doesn't know what's happened because he "didn't touch the steering".

I've lost faith in him now and so don't really trust what he says. As I don't know what's involved in swapping the springs, what on earth could he have done to cause this to happen?

its broke

more helpfully, something could well be bent, or not connected back up correctly, or the tracking is WAY, WAY, WAY out.

I'd give him one go at fixing it and if not happy tell him it needs taken to a reputable garage that know what they're doing

Wonder if he took off the bottom balljoint?

Seen them put back in and they havent got all three bolts through the holes in the ball joint and wishbone.

Thanks so far! Just to clarify it was fine yesterday morning - the toeing out is a result of *something* he's done.

I'm guessing something must not have been connected properly - but not sure what bits need dis-connecting for the job to be done?

At least I haven't paid him yet.

One question - would he have any reason to turn the steering wheel while doing the job? Cos he did (I can tell because there's grease all over it)

Edited 14 January, 201214 yr by OU51

Sounds like a star he does..lol

Yeah might have needed to turn it to access strut bolt etc.

Yeah me seemed OK before - I've had him change the thermostat and alternator. He only charges £25 an hour but as he says it took him 3 hours to do the fronts it probably would have been better to go to a proper place who could do all 4 corners in that time.

Either way it's always advisable to have ur. Tracking checked after any suspension component change

Re: the tracking check - this was something I'd read about on here and I was going to have it done soon just in case.

I thought it may be something that would show up being out maybe 0.5 degrees or something. But what I've ended up with is having to steer left to go straight, and the drivers side is visibly pointing out.

I can't see what he could have done wrong.

To change the front springs all you need to do is remove the front suspension legs by means of the 3 bolts at the top ie on the inner wing, remove the 18mm nut and bolt at the bottom of the leg, remove the drop link then prise the hub at the bottom of the leg to release the stut and pull it out. Sometimes it might be necessary to remove the bottom ball joints 3 bolts that anchor it to the wishbone, to give some downward leway to lift the strut out of the hub.

The top mounts on the struts are then removed by means of the 18/19mm nut (It is best to loosen these off as the first job whilst still fitted to the car and the car is on the ground).

The springs can then be removed.

You would then use spring compressors for the new springs if required and refit as above in reverse, there should be no need to touch the steering track rod ends.

I reckond he can only of fitted back not quite right or it needs re-tracking.

You should always get it re-tracked anyway when you've changed components on the front suspension.

Edited 14 January, 201214 yr by nothills

As a general rule you need to align your vehicle when you have something done to suspension (with small exceptions that dont effect sterring). In case like yours there could be number of things that effect it. The first thing that pops to my mind is that he affected your camber. Some differences in camber will change toe and that affects position of your sterring wheel.

There is a chance that he done everything like he should but no matter wha you should do tracking/alignment/geometry - how ever you call it and make sure ALL ANGLES are correct.

yes thats true, but camber/castor/toe are all subtle alignments, it shouldnt make his wheel point out in the wrong direction

As been mentioned changing springs or shocks should not really effect the steering as that area is not normally touched in the process of suspension change. Even if the wishbone/hub ball joint bolts(x3) were undone, and re tightened out of place this would effect camber not toe in.

After suspension change you should get car wheel alignment redone. I would recommend 4 wheel laser alignment.

But get the guy back to check what he has done first.

Thanks everyone. I'm quite confused now as it sounds like somehow the toe direction of the drivers wheel has altered A LOT.

As soon as I drove off today it felt weird with the steering wanting to return to centre quite forcefully. The steering also felt lighter. I thought for maybe the 1st 100 metres of driving it may just be the new springs feeling different, but after I got to a straight bit of road it was clear that something was seriously wrong.

But it doesn't sound like anything he would have done should have affected the wheel. Can only think that somehow he has knocked or broken something while removing/refitting the springs?

yes thats true, but camber/castor/toe are all subtle alignments, it shouldnt make his wheel point out in the wrong direction

Even if the wishbone/hub ball joint bolts(x3) were undone, and re tightened out of place this would effect camber not toe in.

Sorry guys but you are wrong. In alignment process its really important to sort camber and/or caster first before you carry on to toe. Why? Well toe is measured in minutes and recommended 10' is about 1mm in toe. With front suspension having so many pivot points - top mount, bottom ball joint + 3 bolts, spring new and used, worn parts, any few more can effect camber. If you think you can shift 3 ball joints bolts without effecting it 0.5mm on each one and not effecting toe by 10-20' - think again.

Another very important thing we all forgeting is that there was one spring changed. Do we know what spings where used? Lowered, OEM or cheap replacement and on top of that there was only one changed. Next time you on alignment machine ask mechanic to jack vehicle from underneth and see if toe will change on gauges. It all takes effect on angles.

Are you sure its all done correct? Did he re-checked it after your complain? Did he showed you what he done and where undone? Ifso - well its time for alignment - not just toe. Make sure your "one spring" doesnt effect rest of car.

Good luck.

Ps. Its really important to do alignment after changing suspension parts.

Sorry guys but you are wrong. In alignment process its really important to sort camber and/or caster first before you carry on to toe. Why? Well toe is measured in minutes and recommended 10' is about 1mm in toe. With front suspension having so many pivot points - top mount, bottom ball joint + 3 bolts, spring new and used, worn parts, any few more can effect camber. If you think you can shift 3 ball joints bolts without effecting it 0.5mm on each one and not effecting toe by 10-20' - think again.

Another very important thing we all forgeting is that there was one spring changed. Do we know what spings where used? Lowered, OEM or cheap replacement and on top of that there was only one changed. Next time you on alignment machine ask mechanic to jack vehicle from underneth and see if toe will change on gauges. It all takes effect on angles.

Are you sure its all done correct? Did he re-checked it after your complain? Did he showed you what he done and where undone? Ifso - well its time for alignment - not just toe. Make sure your "one spring" doesnt effect rest of car.

Good luck.

Ps. Its really important to do alignment after changing suspension parts.

Don't get me wrong, i don't disagree with what you say at all, minute changes can have a massive affect, however the op states (or what i understand) that 1 wheel is pointing out, unlike the other, and the steering has changed ie he has to adjust the steering now to get the car to go straight, that to me sounds like something is fitted incorrectly eg tie rod end has been adjusted, tie rod arm has come out of the steering rack and has increased track on one side for example.

Having changed fitted coilovers and stock suspension on cars numerous times, i agree, i always get them setup after, it makes such a difference, i have never had however my steering change as a result however, hence me thinking this is something done incorrectly rather than it being an alignment issue.

What ever the cause, the op should get the car checked over fully before driving, get the issue corrected then have it aligned.

Don't get me wrong, i don't disagree with what you say at all, minute changes can have a massive affect, however the op states (or what i understand) that 1 wheel is pointing out, unlike the other, and the steering has changed ie he has to adjust the steering now to get the car to go straight, that to me sounds like something is fitted incorrectly eg tie rod end has been adjusted, tie rod arm has come out of the steering rack and has increased track on one side for example.

Having changed fitted coilovers and stock suspension on cars numerous times, i agree, i always get them setup after, it makes such a difference, i have never had however my steering change as a result however, hence me thinking this is something done incorrectly rather than it being an alignment issue.

What ever the cause, the op should get the car checked over fully before driving, get the issue corrected then have it aligned.

I agree with you. On other hand I want to say I get aross few customers where they say. Its pointing other way - well it is 1cm - decause of alignment. Other will come around and say - its 5cm out. It all depend on how you looking at it. One other thing that comes to my mind might be that tie-rod end was fitted on wrong side of hub arm. If it was disconected for work and was fitted on wrong side it will effect steering in a way op describe as well as will effect toe a lot and will look as it opposite way.

I agree with you. On other hand I want to say I get aross few customers where they say. Its pointing other way - well it is 1cm - decause of alignment. Other will come around and say - its 5cm out. It all depend on how you looking at it. One other thing that comes to my mind might be that tie-rod end was fitted on wrong side of hub arm. If it was disconected for work and was fitted on wrong side it will effect steering in a way op describe as well as will effect toe a lot and will look as it opposite way.

very true! i also wonder if the tie rod end has almost come out the rack, perhaps when forcing the suspension down and out to remove it has come out...just a thought

Wonder if he took off the bottom balljoint?

Seen them put back in and they havent got all three bolts through the holes in the ball joint and wishbone.

You're the winner! In fact the ball joint only had 1 of the 3 bolts going through the holes. I was lucky to make it the mile or so to the nearest F1 Autocentre who sorted it out.

However, driving back the was still a rattle from the drivers side when going over bumps. Then there was what sounded like a bolt falling out which stopped the rattle but there is now something rubbing on the brake disk when I press the pedal.

When the guy gets here I'll get him to sort that out.

By the way, I replaced both front springs with H&R ones. It's definitely firmer over bumps but not too bad.

Did your mechanic fit vRS springs, as they are very different to the standard Octavia spring as they are shorter because the vRS has lowered suspension. Fitting the wrong springs on the vRS is a very common mistake, the vRS springs are only available from a dealer and rarely from the likes of eurocarparts.

What a crap mechanic he is then!!!!!!

You're the winner! In fact the ball joint only had 1 of the 3 bolts going through the holes. I was lucky to make it the mile or so to the nearest F1 Autocentre who sorted it out.

However, driving back the was still a rattle from the drivers side when going over bumps. Then there was what sounded like a bolt falling out which stopped the rattle but there is now something rubbing on the brake disk when I press the pedal.

When the guy gets here I'll get him to sort that out.

By the way, I replaced both front springs with H&R ones. It's definitely firmer over bumps but not too bad.

See I'm not just a pretty face lol

Seen it a few times and tbh it's really about the only thing that could have effected the steering when changing a spring.

What a crap mechanic he is then!!!!!!

Not just that... not only did he only line up one of the three ball joint bolts, I've now found out that the rubbing noise when braking was because he had not tightened up the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on. The noise I heard was the upper bolt falling off so when I braked the whole thing swung forward and rubbed on the inside of the wheel!! The lower bolt was barely more than finger tight.

So that 2 mistakes, both of which could (and would) have caused a crash in the very near future.

Edited 15 January, 201214 yr by OU51

oh dear, has he give an explanation?

well i think perhaps i would not be relying on him to do ANY remedial work, take it on the chin as a loss and a lesson learnt and go to a good vag specialist if possible.

For what its worth, they are glaring mistakes that should not really have been made...i would get ALL of your suspension (and parts that he touched) checked and tightend by another mechanic as what else might he have left loose!?

He didn't even come round in the end - says he got a puncture on his van last night and didn't trust the spare tyre!

Fortunately I hadn't paid him yet - and of course won't be in the future either.

The guys at F1 Autocentre had a look over the suspension this morning after they sorted out the ball joint. They were really helpful actually and even found me a replacement bolt for the brake caliper when I went back there after lunch.

good news regarding f1, are you going to pay him?