Hi All, I am new to the forum and also a happy owner of a 2002 Skoda Fabia 1.4 16V. My first time skoda ever! The reason I have started this topic is that I would need some help on changing an ignition coil. Last week the "check engine" came up and when I plugged in the code reader (got a cheap one from ebay!) it said that the first cylinder is misfiring. I immediately had a look in the Haynes but couldn't find any instruction on an ignition coil change. I can't even tell which the first/second/third/fourth ignition coil is! :( I would be really grateful if someone could provide me a brief description of the process (I bet it aint that difficult) or point me in the right direction (an earlier thread perhaps). Many many thanks in advance. Best regards from Falmouth, UK.

If its the ignition coil u wont need to know what one is cylinder etc the coil is the part all the leads go into, change like for like, iirc its 3 torque bolts and a plug simple and easy t do bud

Edited 15 January, 201214 yr by lil_azza

Welcome!

Pretty sure it'll be the same as this:

If you chase the HT leads back you'll find they all go into a transformer on the end of the engine block. This is held on by 3 screws - remove the leads, then screws then it just lifts off. Same, but reversed to fit. Took me about 5-10 minutes working slowly to do mine. Hardest bit was getting the leads off without slipping and punching something else!

Can grab some photos if you want/need?

Prices - VW quoted me £120 +VAT Or I got a 3rd party one for £40 off eBay. Seems to work fine, no loss of power and my misfire is gone.

Edited 15 January, 201214 yr by TriggerFish

Hi and thank you very much for the swift reply! okay so first I take off the engine cover and then try to locate the transformer. And how would I know which of the four ignition coils id need to change if I have a misfire in the first cylinder? Are they numbered or do they come in a specific order? I got a coil off ebay from £16. It's not branded but it does the job. I didn't want to take the car to a garage yet, I first wanted to see if I can sort it out myself. There is not much that can wrong!

Welcome!

Pretty sure it'll be the same as this:

If you chase the HT leads back you'll find they all go into a transformer on the end of the engine block. This is held on by 3 screws - remove the leads, then screws then it just lifts off. Same, but reversed to fit. Took me about 5-10 minutes working slowly to do mine. Hardest bit was getting the leads off without slipping and punching something else!

Can grab some photos if you want/need?

Prices - VW quoted me £120 +VAT Or I got a 3rd party one for £40 off eBay. Seems to work fine, no loss of power and my misfire is gone.

You're welcome.

Yep, engine cover just pulls off - best to start at the front though. There's a push on rubber pipe on the rear left that just pushes on/off.

It's only one coil for all 4 plugs on the 16v, so just change the entire thing. Make sure you know which HT lead goes onto which prong though, otherwise you'll run into issues!

Do you have a link to the eBay item?

Here's a picture shamelessly stolen from fabavrav (and here's his obligatory ).

See the 4 red leads going into the black box? That's what you're looking to change - the box. 3 screws hold it on, accessible from the right of the engine.

If it's still miss firing, you might want to try and change the lead for that cylinder too.

Edited 15 January, 201214 yr by TriggerFish

I see. This is what I bought. I thought it's the same set-up as an engine with four spark plugs but instead of the plugs it's four of these pencil type ingition coils. This is not the case then, isn't it? :wonder:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-FABIA-1-4-1999-2007-IGNITION-COIL-PACK-PENCIL-TYPE-OE-QUALITY-/120789525461?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=bin1c1f9de3d5

You're welcome.

Yep, engine cover just pulls off - best to start at the front though. There's a push on rubber pipe on the rear left that just pushes on/off.

It's only one coil for all 4 plugs on the 16v, so just change the entire thing. Make sure you know which HT lead goes onto which prong though, otherwise you'll run into issues!

Do you have a link to the eBay item?

Here's a picture shamelessly stolen from fabavrav (and here's his obligatory ).

See the 4 red leads going into the black box? That's what you're looking to change - the box. 3 screws hold it on, accessible from the right of the engine.

If it's still miss firing, you might want to try and change the lead for that cylinder too.

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=250905502000&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=47641623127

Something like that is what you need, although that one might not be the one, it was just an example.

Your engine does look like the one above doesn't it?

Erm... Don't actually know as I have never taken off the engine cover yet. I'll go out and check in a minute!

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=250905502000&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=47641623127

Something like that is what you need, although that one might not be the one, it was just an example.

Your engine does look like the one above doesn't it?

I've managed to pull the cover off and this is how the engine looks like. It's not similar I'm afraid! http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/img2012011501360.jpg/

Erm... Don't actually know as I have never taken off the engine cover yet. I'll go out and check in a minute!

Edited 15 January, 201214 yr by young_grasshopper

OOh wow, didn't know they did a 1.4 like that, especially at the age of yours!

Sorry I've lead you astray, but I can't really help with that!

Right, cylinder one the the most lefthand one - under the oil filler extension bit. First remove the oil filler extension it - it twists round CCW and lifts off, next I think its best to use small screwdrivers and release some of the clips across the top of the plastic cable management insert - that makes moving the coil up a bit easier, next, using two screwdrivers under the top of the coil and as close to its centre as you can (the centre is round about the centre of the shiny potting (but you should have worked that out from looking at the replacement coil you have), now using what looks safe to use as a pivot point, try to ease the coil up out of the resess in the cylinder head, once its free to rise up, use a small screwdriver to unlatch and ease the connector out of the old coil, drop new one in and fit connection until it "snaps" into its locking point, now press the coil down firmly, refit the cable management tray clips and refit the top cover - job done.

One thing though, out of curiosity, what is the make of the original coil and its p/ns etc - and same for the replacement - all these numbers etc are on the shinny potting on the top of the coil.

One last thing, check and record the manufacturer and p/ns (all of the numbers) of the remaining coils - that way you, or we, can work out if any of these coils have been replaced already.

Edited 15 January, 201214 yr by rum4mo

Oh thank you very much for your help I'll change the coil first thing in the morning. One more question though, what if the misfiring still persists? If not the coils than what else can still be the problem? Many thanks, Istvan

Right, cylinder one the the most lefthand one - under the oil filler extension bit. First remove the oil filler extension it - it twists round CCW and lifts off, next I think its best to use small screwdrivers and release some of the clips across the top of the plastic cable management insert - that makes moving the coil up a bit easier, next, using two screwdrivers under the top of the coil and as close to its centre as you can (the centre is round about the centre of the shiny potting (but you should have worked that out from looking at the replacement coil you have), now using what looks safe to use as a pivot point, try to ease the coil up out of the resess in the cylinder head, once its free to rise up, use a small screwdriver to unlatch and ease the connector out of the old coil, drop new one in and fit connection until it "snaps" into its locking point, now press the coil down firmly, refit the cable management tray clips and refit the top cover - job done.

One thing though, out of curiosity, what is the make of the original coil and its p/ns etc - and same for the replacement - all these numbers etc are on the shinny potting on the top of the coil.

One last thing, check and record the manufacturer and p/ns (all of the numbers) of the remaining coils - that way you, or we, can work out if any of these coils have been replaced already.

Spark plugs?

No plugs here only ignition coils...

Spark plugs?

Oh thank you very much for your help I'll change the coil first thing in the morning. One more question though, what if the misfiring still persists? If not the coils than what else can still be the problem? Many thanks, Istvan

The only other thing it could be (remote chance) is the cam position sensor which is the small black plastic thing secured with a single hex socket cap bolt on the top right of the cam cover....when you look at the engine as if this plays up it affects your version or the engine (BBZ) more than mine...

Or it could be the spark plugs are fouled up or the wrong type/wrong gap etc..... should have NGK BKUR-6ET-10

Just for Triggerfish....

No plugs here only ignition coils...

Hum, there better be spark plugs under these coils!

Can you say which engine you have, ie 75PS or 100PS - as said the 100PS BBZ engine will have a cam sensor, but the 75PS BBY engine does not.

If you look at the paper label stuck to the cover on the LHS black plastic cover, there will either be BBY or BBZ in large(ish) print.

Edited 16 January, 201214 yr by rum4mo

Hi all, I could easily change the ignition coil as kindly suggested above (special thanks to you rum4mo and fabdavrav!) in a few minutes as pictured. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/img2012011701362.jpg/

As I started the engine tough, the misfiring and the check engine light came back on. When I pulled out the ignition coil I could see the spark plug sitting there and realised what an idiot I was earlier claiming that this engine doesn't have any! LOL In my defence, let me note that I thought the ignition coils are meant to substitute the plugs...

Anyhow, I don't know what to do know. Perhaps changing the spark plug might be an option, but I have no clue how I shall fish it out from there. Is there a special extraction tool for this sort of procedure?

Had a look at the engine code and it says BBZ 052 201.

Would really appreciate if someone could advise me on next step. Many many thanks in advance.

The only other thing it could be (remote chance) is the cam position sensor which is the small black plastic thing secured with a single hex socket cap bolt on the top right of the cam cover....when you look at the engine as if this plays up it affects your version or the engine (BBZ) more than mine...

Or it could be the spark plugs are fouled up or the wrong type/wrong gap etc..... should have NGK BKUR-6ET-10

Just for Triggerfish....

Right, probably best to buy a set of NGK plugs (that is what VAG fit at the factory) - Halfords sell them - check any numbers you have been given against Halfords NGK application list (or check NGK website for specific applications). Once you have bought them, buy a sparkplug socket, again from Halfords as you are there already and have the plugs to check the size you need. Now to make things safer for the engine, you should really buy a torque wrench, a Haynes manual (for help and torque values) and some socket set parts -,maybe a 9" extension - make sure the socket+extension+torque wrench are the same size - maybe 1/2 square drive. Be very careful when removing these plugs as if they have been in for a while, they will be quite tight AND YOU MUST NOT END UP BREAKING THE PLUG, so, only do this work with a cooled down engine and keep the socket+extension upright to avoid breaking the plug. One thing, open up the Haynes manual for your car while you are there so that you buy a suitably "low" range of torque wrench.

Alternative plan must be to get a garage to check and change the plugs, oh, and VAG supplied coils would have been more reliable than aftermarket ones out of the box.

Edit'd to correct spelling and replace "plugs" with "coils"!!

Edited 18 January, 201214 yr by rum4mo

I already bought one of these as it was suggested earlier. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280794285676&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:1123

Hope they do the job. I'll pop in to Halfords and see what kind of extraction tools they have.

Will keep you posted how it all pans out! And thank you very much for your kind help!

Right, probably best to buy a set of NGK plugs (that is what VAG fit at the factory) - Halfords sell them - check any numbers you have been given against Halfords NGK application list (or check NGK website for specific applications). Once you have bought them, buy a sparkplug socket, again from Halfords as you are there already and have the plugs to check the size you need. Now to make things safer for the engine, you should really buy a torque wrench, a Haynes manual (for help and torque values) and some socket set parts -,maybe a 9" extension - make sure the socket+extension+torque wrench are the same size - maybe 1/2 square drive. Be very careful when removing these plugs as if they have been in for a while, they will be quite tight AND YOU MUST NOT END UP BREAKING THE PLUG, so, only do this work with a cooled down engine and keep the socket+extension upright to avoid breaking the plug. One thing, open up th eHaynes manual for your car whil eyou are there so that you buy a suitably "low" range of torque wrench.

Alternative plan must be to get a garage to check and change the plugs, oh, and VAG supplied plugs would have been more reliable than aftermarket ones out of the box.

Remember to take one plug in with you so that you get the correct size of sparkplug socket. BTW, sparkplug sockets have a rubber sleeve in them to grip the plug so that you can get it out of the recess once its been unscrewed. I think that the tightening torque for these plugs is only 20>NM - find out in the Haynes book.

Spark plug torque.....Spark plugs = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Also when buying the sparkplug socket get the thinnest walled one you can.....I had the one from my previous car (which was the right size) but the socket could not fit down the recess unless I oiled it!!! (even with the engine stone cold)...so had to take to all the shops and get one that was smaller in dia (thinner wall) now all ok!.....

Spark plug torque.....Spark plugs = 30Nm (22lbf ft)

Also when buying the sparkplug socket get the thinnest walled one you can.....I had the one from my previous car (which was the right size) but the socket could not fit down the recess unless I oiled it!!! (even with the engine stone cold)...so had to take to all the shops and get one that was smaller in dia (thinner wall) now all ok!.....

I don't know why I did "complete" that 20>NM to be what I meant 20>30NM - just stupid I'd guess!

On the subject of sparkplug sockets etc, to the OP, if you are not getting into servicing in a big way, you might find that Halford sells a "service kit" or "plug changing kit" that includes a sparkplug socket some extensions and a ratchet - obviously with the provio that the socket does fit down the bore - my random one is okay on VAG cars.

Edited 18 January, 201214 yr by rum4mo

This is the tool that you need, as most of the others will get stuck: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_229905_langId_-1_categoryId_255216. Also you can move the coil to another cylinder and see if the error is moving, then is that coil.

Edited 19 January, 201214 yr by hap123ciu

This is the tool that you need, as most of the others will get stuck: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_229905_langId_-1_categoryId_255216.

I hate those as you can't use them with a torque wrench.....and it's best to torque things to the correct setings!!!....which is why people have advised a slim walled socket with a long extension bar, etc., etc.,.....

Since I got the socket stuck in the recess I gave up using any short socket for plugs(I don't think short socket with extension is recommended for deep seated spark plugs). This will be better, but I didn't use it so I don't know if it is thin enough: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_163003_categoryId_255216_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PDPz1 , but I used the other one with no problems. Mostly I used the indication on the spark plug box to tighten up and my previous experience in changing spark plugs.

Edited 19 January, 201214 yr by hap123ciu