you can run that setup without the tt/r32/lcr hubs, its no issue as clive said to run with the washer for the balljoint taper, but if money is no issue then change them over as well. To run with the stock hubs you need to rotate the tie rod ends. Mine ran lower than stock with this setup and no problems at all.

You do need tt/lcr/r32 balljoints, they are adjustable on the cast wishbone, those are what you want.

What arb are you running on the rear, if its 24/25mm the 21 on the front is fine, if you plan to go to a bigger rear ie 28mm in the future then stick the 23mm front (r32) arb on now. 23mm front and 28mm rear is the prefect balance for a well setup vrs imo. Failing that 23mm front and 25mm rear was also pretty damn good!

you can run that setup without the tt/r32/lcr hubs, its no issue as clive said to run with the washer for the balljoint taper, but if money is no issue then change them over as well. To run with the stock hubs you need to rotate the tie rod ends. Mine ran lower than stock with this setup and no problems at all.

You do need tt/lcr/r32 balljoints, they are adjustable on the cast wishbone, those are what you want.

What arb are you running on the rear, if its 24/25mm the 21 on the front is fine, if you plan to go to a bigger rear ie 28mm in the future then stick the 23mm front (r32) arb on now. 23mm front and 28mm rear is the prefect balance for a well setup vrs imo. Failing that 23mm front and 25mm rear was also pretty damn good!

Sorry bout this Lee

I only have a 22mm on the back, which to be honest, was still enough to improve turn in and feel!!!

Right, I have feelers out for two sets of hubs (4WD and front, hopefully front will be coming my way, no bearing swaps!)

Get me some ball joints, maybe caster bushes (the ones in the wishbone are perfect though ) as you know, have some brembos and gonna get the rear beam bushes replaced along with the B6's and H&R springs.... car is going to feel nice and fresh!

yes sorry lee, still its all relevant this info.

21mm front is fine then with your rear arb, however...DO buy castor adjustment bushes from whiteline, they really make a difference, i wont explain, go read up on them, i ran them as did Clive, bowders does, as does billy...they make loads of difference to the turn in of the car, especially at speed.

this is a much better use of your money, than fitting the tt hubs, do them later if you cant afford the hubs and the bushes, as the bushes will have more effect.

So, just to confirm... you can fit the TT wishbones, bushes and hubs to an otherwise standard Octavia - i.e. you don't need the rack aswell?

Correct. You can then decide if you wish to modify further with a rack.

Everything is a straight swap / bolt on even the Subframes if you want to go whole hog.

Many thanks for the response - brings me on to another question - TT hubs do they need to be off a particular model or from a particular age of TT to fit? are they just a straight bolt on part and finally what would be a rough ball park figure for a pair if TT front hubs suitable to be fitted to the mk1 octy vrs?

With such a big change at the front of the car is it then fundamental to upgrade the rear or is a thicker ARB all that the rear needs.

Thanks again for all the info - helps me get a grip on what is neede and what difference it all makes

As mentioned you typically need a Front wheel drive car for the Hubs or a 4x4 car that has drive shaft end with nut and not bolts. Car you should look for in order are:

Seat Leon Cupra R

Audi TT 180 2wd

Audi TT 225 4wd but with drive shafts that have a nut like the VRS to hold it in hub/wheel bearing housing.

The Cast wishbones you can get of any of these

Seat Leon Cupra R

Audi TT 180 2wd

Audi TT 225 / Audi S3 / Golf R32

Here are a few more pics and parts needed.

I went the whole hog and i also replaced all nuts/bolts , repainted parts coz I am a fussy git(no comments OET)

some initial shots i took.

First I removed my Subframe as I was replacing the Rack.

The nice bits cleaned and painted ready to go on

Cupra R bush (on the right) much stronger and thicker.

Supro pro rear castor adjuster bushes installed and visible offset.

You can see the extra length the TT Hub provides over the std VRS Hub where the ball joint sits a lot lower, that allows the TT wishbone to sit's nice and parallel to the ground even with my lowered set up. And the R32 ARB has nice gap to wishbone too.

List of Parts I used is useful to anyone:

Note the number in brackets at the end of the part number is the revised ending digit as etka i used is down level

Suspension

1ML 412 331 x 2 Suspension Top Mounts(used Seat Leon Cupra R)

1J0 412 249 x2 Strut Bearing (used Seat Leon Cupra R, but same P/N as VRS)

N 102 07803(4) x 2 Suspension / Hub Bolt

N 10106402 x 2 Suspension / Hub Nut

Subframe

N 907 528 01(2) X 2 Rear Bolt

N 907 349 01(2) X2 Front Bolt

DOGBONE

N 102 683 02(4) X 2 (Front to Subframe) Bolt

N 905 970 01 X1 (REAR) BOLT

N 102 466 03 X1 (REAR) BOLT

Wheel Bearing Housing / Hubs

8N0407256B X1 Right Hub

8N0407255E X1 Left Hub

WISHBONE

8N0407165 X1 Left Cast Wishbone

8N0407166 X1 Right Cast Wishbone

N 103 32001(2) X6 Ball joint nuts

N 908 08801 X2 Ball Joint to Hub nut

N 904 840 03(4) X2 Wishbone Bolt (Front)

N 102 622 01(2) X2 Wishbone Bolt (Rear)

N 015 0814(6) X2 Wishbone Nut (Rear)

KIT5240CADJK x1 SUPERPRO Front control arm set

Consists of:

SPF3394K Front control arm front bushes

SPF3397K Front control arm rear Bushes (castor increase)

Items in Bold optional but another great improvement

STEERING PARTS

N 100 155 06 (7) X4 BOLTS(to hold rack to subframe)

N 013 849 4 X2 SEAL WASHER

N 013 848 7 X2 SEAL WASHER

N 905 87602 X2 Wheel Hub Nut

Steering rack boot kit x 1

PFF85-416 x1 Powerflex Steering Rack mount

1J2 422 105 x1 TT Rack

8N0407365C x2 Ball Joint(Hub)

8N0422803D x1 Tie Rod Left

8N0422804D x1 Tie Rod Right

8N0422811A x1 Tie Rod End Left

8N0422812A x1 Tie Rod End Left

Items in Bold optional (can do steering rack later)

I have lots of pics if needed of the job and can give detailed DIY instruction as and when you need them.

A few points to clarify that aren't obvious until you come to fit everything together and get it working..

The advantageous angle of the bottom arms with lowered cars is due to the hubs not the arms - the TT hubs mount the bottom ball joint much lower than standard hubs (look at the large gap between the driveshaft boot and ball joint mount on the pictures above, compared to standard hub)

TT/LCR hubs have to be used with the cast arms as the ball joints are different and have bigger pins that won't fit a standard hub

Not all 4wd TT's have bolts retaining the driveshafts - I have seen early 225 Quattro's with nuts on the driveshafts.

Absolutley correct there Rich which i mentioned earlier and to be honest Hub is the more important part to have.

Do i take it that a full LCR front set up either will not fit straight on or is not the right way to go.

Please let me know as i do not want to buy parts which won't fit or which are not going to significantly improve the car's handling.

thanks in advance

The LCR full front set up will give you everything you need and yes ideally is the best option for you.

With the LCR you get

Cast Wishbones

Correct Hubs to match the Wishbones

Quick rack steering (2.5 turns instead of VRS 3.4 turns)

Do it

You get all this on Audi TT 180 2wd also

I already have a R32 rack in it and a 21mm front arb, and I have the cast wishbones at home in the shed.

I got a set up a year ago, but decided I didn't want to lower (was still using the car for gigs) so sold the hubs (to Bowders actually!).

Now I want to lower her, so hence these q's.

Would all I need now is the hubs and new ball joints (TT/S3 one?) Anything else I need?

So you did Gavin, no you are not having them back

You can fit wishbones without hubs, but as mentioned is not worth it. Go for the full set up if doing it at all.

If lowering the car a little like 20mm you do not need cast wishbones, TT hubs etc. It is more about are you happy with you cars suspension , steering and driving characteristics. If yes don't bother. But if you want more because you like a better spirited driving(where allowed ) and you want the car to handle and turn in positive and more direct, then go for it.

This set up allows you to track the car as a proper Audi TT 2wd which is needed to get the full potential of the parts added. I will send pics of how my cars front wheels have a lot more castor/camber than when set as a VRS. First it looked weird but now used to it.

I would also seriously consider a RARB with this set up as you Front end will be much tighter and controlled

Top marks for the above post bowders!!!

PS, please can I have my hubs back!

you sir are a legend, that is one complete post, and always is a wealth of information...whish i had your patience to write such complete posts (and with awesome pics too).

Only bit i kind of disagree with is the car can be properly setup without the tt hubs, i 100% agree if money is no odds then i would change them now, but there is not ill effect from using your own hubs for now (especially if you cant afford other bits like the bushes as a result).

To be honest this is an enthusiast mod, imo it was a necessity to sort out the horrible handling characteristics of the stock car. I have met lots of people who think the stock drives well. So it just depends on what you want out of the car, how you drive it and what you are used to in comparison. I dont see the point in changing this stuff over and not running cast wishbones, as they def contribute to overall improvement this setup gives. Its one that is a mod done because you really want to get the best handling that you can out of a fwd vag car, so take your time and get all the bits to make the improvement worth it.

The only part i suggest doesnt fall under the requiremnt catagory is the hubs, as unless you are running really low (which i dont think you are by the sound of it) then the wishbones doesnt sit at a negative angle. Yes the tt hubs are better, but stock hubs with the rest of the upgrades will mae a massive difference. IF you are gonna go very low, they you should fit the tt hub now.

If all you do is drive to work and back in the car, or to the supermarket, then this mod is not for you, if not....then it will make you smile!

phew

Correct. You can then decide if you wish to modify further with a rack.

Everything is a straight swap / bolt on even the Subframes if you want to go whole hog.

As mentioned you typically need a Front wheel drive car for the Hubs or a 4x4 car that has drive shaft end with nut and not bolts. Car you should look for in order are:

Seat Leon Cupra R

Audi TT 180 2wd

Audi TT 225 4wd but with drive shafts that have a nut like the VRS to hold it in hub/wheel bearing housing.

The Cast wishbones you can get of any of these

Seat Leon Cupra R

Audi TT 180 2wd

Audi TT 225 / Audi S3 / Golf R32

Here are a few more pics and parts needed.

I went the whole hog and i also replaced all nuts/bolts , repainted parts coz I am a fussy git(no comments OET)

some initial shots i took.

First I removed my Subframe as I was replacing the Rack.

The nice bits cleaned and painted ready to go on

Cupra R bush (on the right) much stronger and thicker.

Supro pro rear castor adjuster bushes installed and visible offset.

You can see the extra length the TT Hub provides over the std VRS Hub where the ball joint sits a lot lower, that allows the TT wishbone to sit's nice and parallel to the ground even with my lowered set up. And the R32 ARB has nice gap to wishbone too.

List of Parts I used is useful to anyone:

Note the number in brackets at the end of the part number is the revised ending digit as etka i used is down level

Suspension

1ML 412 331 x 2 Suspension Top Mounts(used Seat Leon Cupra R)

1J0 412 249 x2 Strut Bearing (used Seat Leon Cupra R, but same P/N as VRS)

N 102 07803(4) x 2 Suspension / Hub Bolt

N 10106402 x 2 Suspension / Hub Nut

Subframe

N 907 528 01(2) X 2 Rear Bolt

N 907 349 01(2) X2 Front Bolt

DOGBONE

N 102 683 02(4) X 2 (Front to Subframe) Bolt

N 905 970 01 X1 (REAR) BOLT

N 102 466 03 X1 (REAR) BOLT

Wheel Bearing Housing / Hubs

8N0407256B X1 Right Hub

8N0407255E X1 Left Hub

WISHBONE

8N0407165 X1 Left Cast Wishbone

8N0407166 X1 Right Cast Wishbone

N 103 32001(2) X6 Ball joint nuts

N 908 08801 X2 Ball Joint to Hub nut

N 904 840 03(4) X2 Wishbone Bolt (Front)

N 102 622 01(2) X2 Wishbone Bolt (Rear)

N 015 0814(6) X2 Wishbone Nut (Rear)

KIT5240CADJK x1 SUPERPRO Front control arm set

Consists of:

SPF3394K Front control arm front bushes

SPF3397K Front control arm rear Bushes (castor increase)

Items in Bold optional but another great improvement

STEERING PARTS

N 100 155 06 (7) X4 BOLTS(to hold rack to subframe)

N 013 849 4 X2 SEAL WASHER

N 013 848 7 X2 SEAL WASHER

N 905 87602 X2 Wheel Hub Nut

Steering rack boot kit x 1

PFF85-416 x1 Powerflex Steering Rack mount

1J2 422 105 x1 TT Rack

8N0407365C x2 Ball Joint(Hub)

8N0422803D x1 Tie Rod Left

8N0422804D x1 Tie Rod Right

8N0422811A x1 Tie Rod End Left

8N0422812A x1 Tie Rod End Left

Items in Bold optional (can do steering rack later)

I have lots of pics if needed of the job and can give detailed DIY instruction as and when you need them.

Absolutley correct there Rich which i mentioned earlier and to be honest Hub is the more important part to have.

The LCR full front set up will give you everything you need and yes ideally is the best option for you.

With the LCR you get

Cast Wishbones

Correct Hubs to match the Wishbones

Quick rack steering (2.5 turns instead of VRS 3.4 turns)

Do it

You get all this on Audi TT 180 2wd also

So you did Gavin, no you are not having them back

You can fit wishbones without hubs, but as mentioned is not worth it. Go for the full set up if doing it at all.

If lowering the car a little like 20mm you do not need cast wishbones, TT hubs etc. It is more about are you happy with you cars suspension , steering and driving characteristics. If yes don't bother. But if you want more because you like a better spirited driving(where allowed ) and you want the car to handle and turn in positive and more direct, then go for it.

This set up allows you to track the car as a proper Audi TT 2wd which is needed to get the full potential of the parts added. I will send pics of how my cars front wheels have a lot more castor/camber than when set as a VRS. First it looked weird but now used to it.

I would also seriously consider a RARB with this set up as you Front end will be much tighter and controlled

Cheers guys. some excellent info on here. still trying to pick through it all as i mentioned earlier this is a new venture for me - changing the suspension so radically.

I note that some TT 225 cars have the nut instead of the bolt at the end of the driveshaft. I have found this one bring broken on ebay (see link below) and i was going to ask the guy for hubs,subframe and lower brace,arb,rack with tie rod ends,wishbones. is this the right thing to do - can i assume as it is a 99/00 vehicle that it will be the nut on the end of the driveshaft or is it not so cut and dried?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-CONVERTIBLE-ROADSTER-225BHP-BREAKING-SPARES-MK1-1999-2006-/260933299812?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc0d62e64

you sir are a legend, that is one complete post, and always is a wealth of information...whish i had your patience to write such complete posts (and with awesome pics too).

Only bit i kind of disagree with is the car can be properly setup without the tt hubs, i 100% agree if money is no odds then i would change them now, but there is not ill effect from using your own hubs for now (especially if you cant afford other bits like the bushes as a result).

To be honest this is an enthusiast mod, imo it was a necessity to sort out the horrible handling characteristics of the stock car. I have met lots of people who think the stock drives well. So it just depends on what you want out of the car, how you drive it and what you are used to in comparison. I dont see the point in changing this stuff over and not running cast wishbones, as they def contribute to overall improvement this setup gives. Its one that is a mod done because you really want to get the best handling that you can out of a fwd vag car, so take your time and get all the bits to make the improvement worth it.

The only part i suggest doesnt fall under the requiremnt catagory is the hubs, as unless you are running really low (which i dont think you are by the sound of it) then the wishbones doesnt sit at a negative angle. Yes the tt hubs are better, but stock hubs with the rest of the upgrades will mae a massive difference. IF you are gonna go very low, they you should fit the tt hub now.

If all you do is drive to work and back in the car, or to the supermarket, then this mod is not for you, if not....then it will make you smile!

phew

cheers for comments buddy....

Agree with you Luca with regard to Hubs, as where you are coming from is the overall camber /castor effect you get with the Cast wishbones. Which is why i stated "I am running car very low" and for low low cars the Hubs are a must.

Folks on this site and GavrsIrl that are not running their cars low low but either have upgraded suspension with stock height or H&R type springs with 20mm lowering. These guys can run without TT hubs, but need to be aware of modifying the wishbone to ball joint by spacing washers, then also think they need to run steering track rod ends upside down.

Folks with coilovers and running them low low and want to do this mod should really consider changing Hubs,

You know me i fitted castor adjustor superpro bushes which again is a extra but worth it from my perspective.

Again as you mentioned the whole mod is not for everyone and folks with spare dosh should consider why they are doing it certainly if they are new VRS owners and still getting used to the car and handling. It would not be my first mod.

In fact it was one of the last and fitted the modifications i have already done and taken into account

some thought for folks to consider...

Thank you very much Bowders!

So I could just build up a TT/R32/LCR subframe off the car, then drop the current one, complete and swap out?

Cheers guys. some excellent info on here. still trying to pick through it all as i mentioned earlier this is a new venture for me - changing the suspension so radically.

I note that some TT 225 cars have the nut instead of the bolt at the end of the driveshaft. I have found this one bring broken on ebay (see link below) and i was going to ask the guy for hubs,subframe and lower brace,arb,rack with tie rod ends,wishbones. is this the right thing to do - can i assume as it is a 99/00 vehicle that it will be the nut on the end of the driveshaft or is it not so cut and dried?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-TT-CONVERTIBLE-ROADSTER-225BHP-BREAKING-SPARES-MK1-1999-2006-/260933299812?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc0d62e64

Lee if this is a new venture why are you doing it????

Do you need to.

Are you unhappy with the ride. Save money and buy other bits

Not sure what your spec of car is ?? please list what you have done or what car has

Sorry buddy, not trying to put you off but folks that have done this mod are either track racers, enthusiasts that want perfect handling/balance or utter car crazed fiddlers(Christ i just put myself in all those categories )

consider why you are doing it , that's all.

But if you are really serious yes that ebay TT will get you all the bits you need, and yes you need to check Hubs. The actual wheel bearing housing(that must folks call Hubs) is the same in R32/S3/TT and LCR it is the Flange :p (sounds rude), that sits in the wheel bearing housing held in with bearings and the drive shaft that is truly called the Hub which is the different part, as it takes the 4x4 drive shafts. But you can get those 4x4 flanges/hubs pressed out and re use your VRS flanges from your wheel bearing housing. That's what I did, as i wanted new bearing pressed in anyway.

Thank you very much Bowders!

So I could just build up a TT/R32/LCR subframe off the car, then drop the current one, complete and swap out?

Absolutely

That's what I did......

Best way then all parts are sorted.

Lee if this is a new venture why are you doing it????

Do you need to.

Are you unhappy with the ride. Save money and buy other bits

Not sure what your spec of car is ?? please list what you have done or what car has

Not trying to put you off but folks that have done this mod are either track racers, enthusiasts that want perfect handling/balance or utter car crazed fiddlers(Christ i just put myself in all those categories )

But if you are really serious yes that ebay TT will get you all the bits you need, and yes you need to check Hubs. The actual wheel bearing housing(that must folks call Hubs) is the same in R32/S3/TT and LCR it is the Flange(what is truly the Hub) that is different as it takes the 4x4 drive shafts. But you can get those pressed out and re use your VRS flanges from your wheel bearing housing. That's what I did, as i wanted new bearing pressed in anyway.

so far my car has revo stg 2 engine mod CAI, milltec stainless exhaust and top front strut brace, koni suspension, white line front and rear ARBs.

to be fair all this was done before i bought the car and it has a huge file of receipts to show what was done. the thing i am noticing at the moment is that in the past i had an M3 1995 M reg and a S2 escort turbo and both of these you could turn in and the car went where you wanted it to. My VRS you turn in and it wants to run wide and under hard acceleration into a corner it can break traction and veer on to the other side of the road. I am really looking for something to enhance front end grip and make it more surefooted and direct so you can get it to go where you want it to and has good feedback as to what is happening to the front wheels and so the turn in is much sharper.

the hope is that if i build up the parts over time, wait till i have them all and then get them fitted all at once, then get it all aligned properly it will transform the car massively.

then next stop brakes to make it stop properly

so far my car has revo stg 2 engine mod CAI, milltec stainless exhaust and top front strut brace, koni suspension, white line front and rear ARBs.

to be fair all this was done before i bought the car and it has a huge file of receipts to show what was done. the thing i am noticing at the moment is that in the past i had an M3 1995 M reg and a S2 escort turbo and both of these you could turn in and the car went where you wanted it to. My VRS you turn in and it wants to run wide and under hard acceleration into a corner it can break traction and veer on to the other side of the road. I am really looking for something to enhance front end grip and make it more surefooted and direct so you can get it to go where you want it to and has good feedback as to what is happening to the front wheels and so the turn in is much sharper.

the hope is that if i build up the parts over time, wait till i have them all and then get them fitted all at once, then get it all aligned properly it will transform the car massively.

then next stop brakes to make it stop properly

Hi Lee,

Well you have the good base on your car to do this then.

I have had 2 series 1 RS Turbo's that had fully set up suspension and adjustable chamber , caster tie bars. That handled like it was on rails, and was quicker round track than a lot more powerful motors.

I then had a series 2 RS Turbo and boy that was poor handling compared to the series one as Ford basically ran out of decent parts and kept the front end/std suspension (none adjustable) as per XR3i. "crap"

I had to do a lot of work on that getting it to handle how i wanted it.

I can see that you have had the right cars prior to the VRS that make the VRS somewhat vague in the handling dept, so i can see why you want to go this route, so yes do it as you will get far better handling and driving experience.

I came from a MG ZS180(great handling) and 3 scoobies to the VRS so the VRS had no chance...

Any further info just shout...

View PostBabs, on 21 January 2012 - 22:00, said:

Thank you very much Bowders!

So I could just build up a TT/R32/LCR subframe off the car, then drop the current one, complete and swap out?

Absolutely

That's what I did......

Best way then all parts are sorted.

thats exactly what i did too babs, it gives you the time to build and paint your new setup off the car, then when ready swap over in one go minimising how long your car is off the road for.

Might have to this a crack then!

Thread bookmarked for when I have some cash (I hate January!)

I think we need some sort of Wiki or database on here so this sort of thing is all in one place, as we all know the search isn't brilliant, so it would help immensely.

Till then, thank you both

no probs

we do have a wiki database......its called bowders1

no probs

we do have a wiki database......its called bowders1

Ha Ha nice one dude....

I will post something in techi section.......laters..

My octy 4x4 doesn't appear to have the hubs with the longer balljoint mount pionts on it (i believe it's supposed to from reading here), they look the same as my vrs hubs :S

my 4x4 hub

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Edited 23 January, 201214 yr by nitrovrs

4x4 octy hubs iirc are different to the r32/tt 4x4 hub sadly

4x4 octy hubs iirc are different to the r32/tt 4x4 hub sadly

Correct they are as they do not have the cast alloy wishbones...

A well covered mod

The castor correcting bushes can cancel out the understeer

Not just for FWD cars.

Easier/cheaper mod on 4x4's as hubs don't need to changed.

briskoda.net/forums/topic/167520-r32-tt-cast-wishbones/

briskoda.net/forums/topic/203782-suspension-tweeks/

The 2.5 'quick rack' cannot be used on cars with ESP fitted (FWD or 4x4 - conflict between steering angle sensors and rack).

It was this bit that threw me, thought 4x4 octy had the right hubs :(

Looks like i'll be buying fwd tt/lcr hubs too :yes:

The Octy 4x4 doesn't need to change hubs, nor do they need any washers to keep the balljoints in situ.

You'll notice my wishbones are above the balljoint too, this is to give clearance for the 330mm bell/rotor.

The pic makes the wishbone look really close the ARB, but they's loads of clearance.

Lee if this is a new venture why are you doing it????

Do you need to.

Are you unhappy with the ride. Save money and buy other bits

Not sure what your spec of car is ?? please list what you have done or what car has

Sorry buddy, not trying to put you off but folks that have done this mod are either track racers, enthusiasts that want perfect handling/balance or utter car crazed fiddlers(Christ i just put myself in all those categories )

consider why you are doing it , that's all.

But if you are really serious yes that ebay TT will get you all the bits you need, and yes you need to check Hubs. The actual wheel bearing housing(that must folks call Hubs) is the same in R32/S3/TT and LCR it is the Flange :p (sounds rude), that sits in the wheel bearing housing held in with bearings and the drive shaft that is truly called the Hub which is the different part, as it takes the 4x4 drive shafts. But you can get those 4x4 flanges/hubs pressed out and re use your VRS flanges from your wheel bearing housing. That's what I did, as i wanted new bearing pressed in anyway.

so if i am understanding this correctly even with the LCR hub i will need to get the flanges pressed out or is there no need given that the LCR and VRS are both FWD vehicles?

thanks for all the info so far. i do not know how it is possible to know so much about these cars and carry it all around in your head

The LCR has different driveshafts to the vRS, it comes with the O2M 6 speed box which has stronger splined driveshafts (different lengths too)

The Octy 4x4 doesn't need to change hubs, nor do they need any washers to keep the balljoints in situ.

So all I would need is to replace the wishbone with the cast ones from an S3/TT/R32? No need to change the balljoints either?