I used rivnuts, did the trick

The problem with rivnuts is that the rivnut head is between the carrier and the door

I remember Ali at Unit 18 had this problem when they changed my door switch. He had to go out and buy a new rivet gun and get the rivets from TPS (i think) because the standard rivet gun was too small.

3 years on

 

I'm in a situation where I will need to remove the rivets at some point and want to know exactly what I need to take it off and put back on.

Edited 23 September, 201510 yr by trunks_mk1

If this is for your 2000 car, it'll be bolted, not riveted.

already checked it rivetted :s

Bummer!

Well the rivet part number that replaced the bolts is quoted further up here by kind Mr Baldwin, and the type of rivet gun you need is the 'lazy tong' design, as he also says. If the one you find will handle 6.3mm rivets then it should do the job.

I bought a silver lne lazy tong when I did mine. I bent in half on the first rivet so I self tapped the carrier on.means it's easier to take off next timel

I got the silverline lazy one as well, (from toolstation) worked fine.

Got the rivets as above and you need to drill the originals out with a 6mm bit, use drill bits that are gold coloured as the set I bought from toolstation were black and rubbish!

.... and make sure you set the rivet gun up correctly as otherwise when you re-rivet the door, the metal sheet vibrates at low speed :(

.... and make sure you set the rivet gun up correctly as otherwise when you re-rivet the door, the metal sheet vibrates at low speed :(

Done this twice now but haven't had this issue...although I did use a lot of plumbers gold....

 

Which is the other thing you'll need, get then sealed properly while its off!

 

And don't drill every rivet in sight, 2 of them hold the window mechanism on (on the rears) but they do look different so its not an easy mistake to make.

thanks for the advice...will get the tools and give it ago if the rain ever goes away.