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Advice on buying an Octavia 2.0 TDI VRS

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Hi all,

I'm looking to change my current Superb MK1 for an Octavia VRS Diesel estate. Any advice you all may have would be greatly appreciated. I suppose my main concern, apart from DPF issues, would be the dreaded oil pump failure on the 2.0 TDI engines. Has this been cured on the 170 BHP VRS?

Many thanks to anyone who replies,

Rob

Oil pump failure didnt effect the Octy only superb and passatt iirc. Octy has a different configuration around the oil pump.

  • Author

Thanks Anddenton,

I guess then apart from usual items to look out for, the Octy 2 is a safe bet. Would you agree?

Cheers,

Rob

Yep Octy is a very good car for the price.

If you can stretch to the cr engine then you should have fewer problems, particularly with the DPF.

Other things to look out for are the DMF, turbo and the infamous ESP fault.

  • Author

Unfortunately, I can't stretch to a CR I'm looking for a 2008 with reasonable milage (75 K ish) and full history. Sorry to keep on at you like this, but can you give me a bit more detail on the DMF, ESP and turbo issues?

Thanks a mill,

Rob

The fact that you're aware of the dpf issues and still looking for one indicate to me that you will be driving it under correct conditions to ensure maintenance of the dpf. Mine is a great car in many ways, but I've come to the conclusion that my driving pattern is not conducive to dpf fitted cars.

You doing many miles a year?

  • Author

Probably 20-25k per year. Used to do a lot more than that so the DPF would definitely not have been an issue, but I am aware of keeping it clean. The ESP and turbo issues would concern me a lot too.

Cheers,

Rob

How many miles is your daily commute and what type of roads are they.

The only thing to look out for is sawtoothing, although this might be just the fl onwards.

  • Author

Don't really have a daily commute as such, it could be 20 miles one day and 300 the next..! BTW, what's Sawtoothing?

Cheers,

Rob

Sawtoothing is the tyres( usually rears) on the outer edge getting a pattern like a saw because the camber is out .I think this only applies to the facelifts, but can be easily cured with 4 wheel alignment. My car had the dreaded esp abs fault. A once expensive fault to fix , but now a repair kit available, so not as bad if it occurs :yes:

No issues at all with my vrs tdi. None at all

Ok so in summary:

DMF - these are prone to failure - check for rumbling from the clutch/gearbox area when driving and a judder particularly when pulling away.

ESP - can strike anytime without warning - check you can switch the ESP on and off and that the light goes on and off in the instrument binnacle.

Turbo - at the millage you are looking at depending on how the cars been looked after you are into potential turbo failure territory - listen for a "siren" noise when slowly increasing/decreasing revs or poor power delivery between 1500 and 4000 rpm. - once the car is fully warmed up on a test drive accelerate through the full rev range (right up to the red line) and make sure this does not trigger limp mode.

Don't be put off by any of the above, turbo and DMF failures are a common feature of many modern diesel cars and as stated above the ESP can now be fixed relatively easily. a full Skoda service history can also be good for a bit on good will fro Skoda uk on these faults.

Another issue that has cropped up on here is the cold start problem for which there are many awaiting a resolution so it may be an idea to make sure car is cold when you view (frosty morning if possible) and hasn't already been running and see how she starts.

There is also a recall to change the injectors (possibly linked to the cold start?) so check this has been carried out ( sticker under carpet in boot)

Sawtoothing - run your hand round the inner edge of rear tyres and feel for unevenness - potential cost is circa £80 for a suspension geometry setup + two new tyres.

Finally a 2008 car at 75000 miles will be due a timing belt - circa £300 to £400 and most on here will recommend a water pump change at the same time.

One last thing, check the rear washer, these are prone to problems although generally its just the pipes coming apart, easy to fix but annoying as you don't know where the liquid is being squirted in the car (often over the cd changer)

As said don't be put off as its still a great car to drive!

  • Author

Thanks so much guys for the info, especially Anddenton. Great detail and I'm sure will be helpful to many prospective buyers.

Chers,

Rob

The only thing to look out for is sawtoothing, although this might be just the fl onwards.

Sawtoothing is not limited to FL's! Mine is a pre-FL 2007 Estate and has that problem on the off-side rear. Purchased the car (used) 18 months ago with stock Dunlops on (known to have problems with sawtoothing) and soon noticed the noise building up. Had tyres replaced with alernatives and now, c.10,000 miles later, it is starting to come back again.

Will be putting it in for a geometry / alignment check as soon as I find a decent one (preferably Hunter) in the Herefordshire area.

As already stated, it will cost about £80-100 for all wheels + tyres.

Regarding the other issues, I have not had not experienced any of them on my car (2.0 PD with DMF, DPF & turbo) at over 107,000 miles.

The fact that you're aware of the dpf issues and still looking for one indicate to me that you will be driving it under correct conditions to ensure maintenance of the dpf. Mine is a great car in many ways, but I've come to the conclusion that my driving pattern is not conducive to dpf fitted cars.

Ok so in summary:

DMF - these are prone to failure - check for rumbling from the clutch/gearbox area when driving and a judder particularly when pulling away.

ESP - can strike anytime without warning - check you can switch the ESP on and off and that the light goes on and off in the instrument binnacle.

Turbo - at the millage you are looking at depending on how the cars been looked after you are into potential turbo failure territory - listen for a "siren" noise when slowly increasing/decreasing revs or poor power delivery between 1500 and 4000 rpm. - once the car is fully warmed up on a test drive accelerate through the full rev range (right up to the red line) and make sure this does not trigger limp mode.

Don't be put off by any of the above, turbo and DMF failures are a common feature of many modern diesel cars and as stated above the ESP can now be fixed relatively easily. a full Skoda service history can also be good for a bit on good will fro Skoda uk on these faults.

Another issue that has cropped up on here is the cold start problem for which there are many awaiting a resolution so it may be an idea to make sure car is cold when you view (frosty morning if possible) and hasn't already been running and see how she starts.

There is also a recall to change the injectors (possibly linked to the cold start?) so check this has been carried out ( sticker under carpet in boot)

Sawtoothing - run your hand round the inner edge of rear tyres and feel for unevenness - potential cost is circa £80 for a suspension geometry setup + two new tyres.

Finally a 2008 car at 75000 miles will be due a timing belt - circa £300 to £400 and most on here will recommend a water pump change at the same time.

One last thing, check the rear washer, these are prone to problems although generally its just the pipes coming apart, easy to fix but annoying as you don't know where the liquid is being squirted in the car (often over the cd changer)

As said don't be put off as its still a great car to drive!

What sticker under the carpet in boot? Does the dealer fit a sticker if injectors are done?

Recalls etc they put a sticker on the left side under the carpet in the wheel well :thumbup:

Sawtoothing is not limited to FL's! Mine is a pre-FL 2007 Estate and has that problem on the off-side rear. Purchased the car (used) 18 months ago with stock Dunlops on (known to have problems with sawtoothing) and soon noticed the noise building up. Had tyres replaced with alernatives and now, c.10,000 miles later, it is starting to come back again.

Will be putting it in for a geometry / alignment check as soon as I find a decent one (preferably Hunter) in the Herefordshire area.

As already stated, it will cost about £80-100 for all wheels + tyres.

Regarding the other issues, I have not had not experienced any of them on my car (2.0 PD with DMF, DPF & turbo) at over 107,000 miles.

I think the point here is the after 3 years you would have expected a pre fl to have been sorted! How do people manage to just live with this problem for so long?

Since you're in Ireland, make sure the recall has been done on the injectors.

I bought a CR vrs 12 months ago. It had 36k km on it and is at 93k km. In that time the DPF went at 44k km, the air con compressor around 50K km, the aux belt failed, a temperature sensor failed in the exhaust and required the two front shocks replaced. Apart from the aux belt the car was never immobile but it was very inconvenient to say the least. The last repair was at 74k km and touch wood it seems to be finished since. Had a recall a few weeks ago on the fuel lines but that's it. I would be slow to buy another but I have to say that the dealer service has been exceptionally good and the car is cheap to fuel and service. Mid 40s is achievable, minor service at the dealer is about €140 and a full not much more than €200. Plus tax band C on 08+ models means €330 motor tax compared to €660 on pre-08s.

  • Author

Thanks lads....

I think the point here is the after 3 years you would have expected a pre fl to have been sorted! How do people manage to just live with this problem for so long?

3 years? (2007 to 2012 = 5 years but I've only had it 18 months)

When you identify that the sawtoothing problem exists you question whether it is the tyre (known to have problems) or the geometry (known to have problems) as when you change the tyre it goes away (until the tyre deforms again due to the geometry problem).

It's a process of elimination that involves spending as little money as possible!

As it was a used car, no evidence existed either way to suggest that the geometry had been changed. Although it could be argued that it would be safe to assume that it hadn't.

Now I know that it is the geometry, I am on the look out for someone reliable to remedy it.

And that will be the end of it.

3 years? (2007 to 2012 = 5 years but I've only had it 18 months)

When you identify that the sawtoothing problem exists you question whether it is the tyre (known to have problems) or the geometry (known to have problems) as when you change the tyre it goes away (until the tyre deforms again due to the geometry problem).

It's a process of elimination that involves spending as little money as possible!

As it was a used car, no evidence existed either way to suggest that the geometry had been changed. Although it could be argued that it would be safe to assume that it hadn't.

Now I know that it is the geometry, I am on the look out for someone reliable to remedy it.

And that will be the end of it.

Yeah but how many tyres did the previous owners go through without rectifying the issue?

Yeah but how many tyres did the previous owners go through without rectifying the issue?

Now I follow you. Thanks.

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