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what a weird day.

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He said that research was done but what the sources were I don't know. If you have any engineering knowledge then you know what's being said isn't tosh...

Anyway, at least he's coming up with info that helps the thread/OP....don't see that from your posts :giggle:

I do, and that is precisely the reason why I'm saying this. You clearly do not so you really ought to pay more attention.

The OP didn't come here for help, he simply posted what he'd discovered and we've all been discussing his findings since.

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The AFH apparently won't due to the allignment of the internal water and oil ways!!! This is why they get a complete old AFH engine and tune it by fitting the 1.6lt rods and pistons.....so they make it a "long" stroke engine....then you can fit cams up to 292 duration!! as the engine needs to rev to over 8000rpm!!!!!

I'd say the easier option is to get the 1.6 engine, and fit the AFH head. Yes, you'll need to change the water pump and cambelt setup slightly, but that'll need to come off anyway to fit the rods (I think). Might run into ECU issues I guess though if the sensors are different.

I think I saw some 302 cams from CatCams somewhere too. . .

Also, I really wouldn't question Tom's knowledge of these engines - some of his posts of CP have been massively helpful/informative. emoticon-0148-yes.gif

Edit:

Search for part 7606704 on catcams.com

duration[0.1mm+cl]303°303°



Edited by TriggerFish

TO all the above posts .....some apprecative ......others not.....answers to all the questions below;

If you read what the OP stated on page one..... that ABT had confirmed in their email to him was his car had;

Quote

ABT - POWER INCREASEMENT

Skoda Fabia (6J) 1,4 ltr. 16v from 99 HP to approx. 140 HP

consisting of: ECU (AEC) Remap level 2, bracket set, cable harness, iridium spark plugs, mounting

kit, camshaft upgrade level 2, ignition lead upgrade, air filter replacement and upgrade level 2

ABT - SUSPENSION INCREASEMENT

Skoda Fabia (6J) 1,4 ltr. 16v

consisting of: reinforced front and rear springs

End Quote

In Plain english (this is a german company remember) the mods are,

Remap and/or piggyback ECU.

Iridium Spark plugs.

Camshaft upgrade.

Ignition lead upgrade.

Upgraded air filer element.

Stiffer lowered springs.

ABT nor any other company is going to make a "kit" from scratch IF there are mods/parts out there "off the shelf" as it would be idiotic!!!

Eibach would have supplied the springs as they make the Skoda kits for the car

Schrick make camshafts for almost all the german companies/tuners/everyone else.. and they do LOTS for all VAG cars.......I even stated the list from THEIR catalogue!!!

NGK are OEM fit for most VAG cars so it makes sense to use their Iridium spark plugs.

Magnacor are the only ones who list a "performance"...3 different types for that engine spark plug leads

ABT would have fitted all the stuff too their car and put it in their dyno test cell they have and custom written a map after long testing!!!!

sepulchrave,......PLEASE STOP TROLLING!!!!!

As for the two cats;

On the AUB engine (1.4 16v 100bhp) there is one cat (200cell s/steel) which is built in just after the exhaust manifold (it is part of the manifold unit and is under the heat sheild). The other cat (400 cell ceramic) is under the gearstick area. The 400cell one is the one I replaced with a 200cell s/steel from BM Cats...this is the one that threw up the codes! I have replaced this with an OEM 400cell one!!

So the order of bits for the exhaust from the engine is....

Exhaust Manifold--Lambda Sensor--Cat--Flexi Section--Cat--Lambda Sensor--Mid Box--Back Box--Tailpipe

Triggerfish

You missed my earlier post re the 1.6lt.......303deg duration???.....bloody hell!!!!!! :o

"The AFH (1.4lt) head apparently won't (fit the 1.6) due to the allignment of the internal water and oil ways!!! This is why they get a complete old AFH engine and tune it by fitting the 1.6lt rods and pistons.....so they make it a "long" stroke engine....then you can fit cams up to 292 duration!! as the engine needs to rev to over 8000rpm!!!!!

AS for "is our head reliable"........it's good for tuning but if you want over 180bhp aparrently not...VW had problems trying to get 210-220bhp using this head.....

The AFH engine has one timing belt......our AUB engine has two and a different layout!!!!!

B) B)

Thanks for clearing that up Fabdavrav.

Everyone knows though the king of N/A engines is Honda, my mate had an EK9 that has been rolling road dyno tested on two dyno's a 1.6L N/A making 210BHP! - with minor bolt on's.

S2000's which are 2.0L with bolt on's on tune can make around 265-270BHP MAX.

B)

Bloody amazing.

Edited by FabiaVRSAJ

Good reading in this thread so far.

Nice to have some good info in the fabia section on tuning something other than the vRS. Nice work fabdavrav :thumbup:

sepulchrave,......PLEASE STOP TROLLING!!!!!

+1. Well said.

Thread would have read easier without the negative contribution.

S2000's which are 2.0L with bolt on's on tune can make around 265-270BHP MAX.

B)

Bloody amazing.

All that power in a car that weighs as much as crisp packet = SERIOUS FUN! :rofl:

"The AFH (1.4lt) head apparently won't (fit the 1.6) due to the allignment of the internal water and oil ways!!! This is why they get a complete old AFH engine and tune it by fitting the 1.6lt rods and pistons.....so they make it a "long" stroke engine....then you can fit cams up to 292 duration!! as the engine needs to rev to over 8000rpm!!!!!

Whered' you see that? (Genuine interest - it's a pretty well known swap/setup - Polo/Lupo GTi engine (ARC/AVY codes) with the AFH head + bike carbs into an older Polo.) Check this guide on how to do the swap out:

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=213191

and http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=179084 (mostly post 19 onwards).

Everyone knows though the king of N/A engines is Honda, my mate had an EK9 that has been rolling road dyno tested on two dyno's a 1.6L N/A making 210BHP! - with minor bolt on's.

Guess it's as they can rev so highly what with V-TECH, letting them make the power?

I had 231 out of my 1.3 n/a Mazda if it counts?

Thanks for clearing that up Fabdavrav.

Everyone knows though the king of N/A engines is Honda, my mate had an EK9 that has been rolling road dyno tested on two dyno's a 1.6L N/A making 210BHP! - with minor bolt on's.

S2000's which are 2.0L with bolt on's on tune can make around 265-270BHP MAX.

B)

Bloody amazing.

Typical Japs.........my mate had a couple of Mitsu' FTO's......including the rare one (GP version R) with the slip diff.....that engine was a screeeeeeeemer! (mivec)....... :giggle:

Still waiting for ABT UK to get back to me....I did phone them a couple of days ago and he said it might take a bit of time to get the full info (from HQ in Germany)...as they tend to change everything every 2yrs (so only keep the lastest 2yrs stuff).......so the info is in the archives as the kit is old and the car is not "current"........ :S

Also to you and "sausage roll".....thanks..... :thumbup:.....nice to know some appreciates the info!

Whered' you see that? (Genuine interest - it's a pretty well known swap/setup - Polo/Lupo GTi engine (ARC/AVY codes) with the AFH head + bike carbs into an older Polo.) Check this guide on how to do the swap out:

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=213191

and http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=179084 (mostly post 19 onwards).

Well the main thing is the physical differnce when you see them side by side (I have almost bought a P reg 16v Polo)...the timing belt set ups mean it's a bit of a no no (massive work)....but the back up info is here......Club Lupo...

http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8161&st=20

Post 13 onwards really....a couple of pages....there are other post on the forum.....but the same info really....... B)

Whered' you see that? (Genuine interest - it's a pretty well known swap/setup - Polo/Lupo GTi engine (ARC/AVY codes) with the AFH head + bike carbs into an older Polo.) Check this guide on how to do the swap out:

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=213191

and http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=179084 (mostly post 19 onwards).

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Guess it's as they can rev so highly what with V-TECH, letting them make the power?

I had 231 out of my 1.3 n/a Mazda if it counts?

To mention a few things - matching TB and intake manifold and one of the best following heads, overly square.

Its obvious you need to rev that high to make that sort of power.

A waankkle engine will need a rebuild far sooner and its different of course. Fuel/oil are a moot point.

Got to rag the shiiit out of these engines though.

You either love them or hate, personally I'm not a fan.

Edited by FabiaVRSAJ

Good reading in this thread so far.

Nice to have some good info in the fabia section on tuning something other than the vRS. Nice work fabdavrav :thumbup:

+1. Well said.

Thread would have read easier without the negative contribution.

Whoa, y u so mad at me? I don't even know you, you never "contributed" before in our discussions.

It is my curse to know so much and yet be able to do so little.

You, on the other hand, appear to have a different problem :smirk:

Whoa, y u so mad at me? I don't even know you, you never "contributed" before in our discussions.

It is my curse to know so much and yet be able to do so little.

You, on the other hand, appear to have a different problem :smirk:

I'm not mad at you pal.

I'm not remotely interested in getting into a debate with you either.

Please do us all a favour by not trolling in threads. This in turn will do you a big favour as currently you come across as being a right n0bhead :thumbup:

enjoy :)

The AFH apparently won't due to the allignment of the internal water and oil ways!!!

no sorry that's not true, whoever told you that is wrong I'm afraid...

100_0725.jpg

One of my afh heads shown above with a avy cylinder head gasket overlaid.

100_0742.jpg

The timing belts issues are easy to sort too, late avy engine shown with afh cylinder head and belts, water pump not fitted in this pic.

not wanting to spline like a bell end for nothing like... I'll still wager I know more about these engines than most... Care to lock horns with me about it?

100_0674.jpg

Same engine block shown in this pic, but with the double belt setup and late rocker head fitted. Just showing this for comparison.

no sorry that's not true, whoever told you that is wrong I'm afraid...

One of my afh heads shown above with a avy cylinder head gasket overlaid.

The timing belts issues are easy to sort too, late avy engine shown with afh cylinder head and belts, water pump not fitted in this pic.

not wanting to spline like a bell end for nothing like... I'll still wager I know more about these engines than most... Care to lock horns with me about it?

Right then........

I got my info from both Club Lupo....and Club Polo..........And "condensed" it as it is stightly off topic...so missed off the "full arguments"

On the Clup Polo site you go by the name of "Skodaboy"......so you will be aware of what I am about to quote!!!!!!!...as you posted your build of the engines.

Yes the early 1.4 16v AFH head can fit onto the late 1.6 16v AVY block.....BUT the 3 oil drainage holes/slots on one side of the engine are different between the the two types of engine. You got the two to fit by using the head gasket from the 1.6 AVY engine, and by trimming off some "tabs".

To get the 1.6 16v which has two timing belts to now run on one timing belt as you are fitting the 1.4 16v AFH head you had to make up custom "stud" for the relay roller (other people have found it to be a real pain and this is the biggest problem with the conversion),

Then fit the steel sump from a 1.6 8v AEE engine for exhaust downpipe clearance.

Then use 1.0lt AER bolts for the head as the AVY ones don't protrude through.

Then get a different bracket or modify the one for the driveby wire throttle cable.

Then fit the injectors from the 1.4lt AFH...as you found them to be better!!!

In other words it's a bit of a pig to do!!!!!

This is why I sided with the quote on Club Lupo......get a 1.4 16v AFH engine and fit the 1.6 16v AFY pistons/rods...

Mind you......You know all this anyway as on the Club Polo site you had the same argument with "MickeyMK"....who also thought/stated the same as me..

QUOTE FROM MickeyMK

I had a BCB engine instead of an AVY, which id got from a late MK4 Golf. This wasn't suitable for the Polo gearbox,so i simply took the internals and put them in the AFH block.

This means all otherwise standard AFH parts are used,including the standard relay pulley bolt,head bolts and head gasket.

I believe this is the best and easiest way - just put the AVY crank,oil pump,rods and pistons in the AFH block (if the AVY crank pulley isn't wide enough for the belt,use one from a Golf 1.4 16v as these are and fit the crank properly. The AFH ones I've found did not seat properly,so dont use these). This enables you to fit new shells/rings etc if you need,give the bores a gentle de-glaze with fine stones,but little else.

It also means you keep the AFH engine number but dont be tempted to keep quiet about it for cheaper insurance and tax disc. The DVLA only need a letter,and insurers are well aware of the biro in the spark plug hole trick to find if they can save a few grand if it all goes baccy bong.

END QUOTE

Just read the full topic here.....remember "Skodaboy" is "TeflonTom"...linky

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=213191&st=0

All I tried to do was save people time/hassle by "steering" them towards the easiest way of doing the conversion!!!!!!!

EVEN YOU ADMIT THAT THIS IS THE EASIEST WAY AS YOU STATED......QUOTE.... "i'm i'm honest if I was going to build up another one i'd almost certainly use a whole AFH engine and just swap the crank and pistons, it makes sense to use 'standard' parts to build an engine rather than mixing and matching bits to build a hybrid, i only did it that way down to being pure lazy.......

LINKY........

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?s=&showtopic=213191&view=findpost&p=1867833

SO STOP TRYING TO F4CKING TROLL ME......... :finger:.....YOU CAN'T EVEN REMEMBER WHAT YOU STATE ON FORUMS!!!

If you want to get in a "my d1cks bigger than yours" argument......that's YOUR problem..........the posts/topics are on that link for everyone to make their own mind up!!!!!!!

B)

lets be honest here, your not going to win a battle of words with me on here, there's ways of alienating the knowledgeable folks like me, there are only a handfull of people on here that have the experience and knowledge to do stuff like this and your not going to make friends by goading me, you are just a google warrior my friend.... so in the words of somebody famous... "why dont you **** off and do one you damned newbie".... < actually i think i just made that up myself... notice to the mods... ban me if you like

You both need to calm down here fella's!

You both make very valuable contributions to this forum and you are both allowed to have your own opinions. You can also both agree to disagree.

This has been a very good and valuable thread to the fabia section so far IMO. No need to ruin it with a war of words...

Fabdavrav have you got any pics of your engine fella?

You both need to calm down here fella's!

You both make very valuable contributions to this forum and you are both allowed to have your own opinions. You can also both agree to disagree.

This has been a very good and valuable thread to the fabia section so far IMO. No need to ruin it with a war of words...

Fabdavrav have you got any pics of your engine fella?

I'm breathing in.......and out............and in..........and out............relax......

Pics......(not full current)......not got the Magnacor leads yet and I've altered the join on the breather pipe slightly...

engine1.jpg

engine2.jpg

B)

does the 1.4 fabia have the same front panel as the diesel ones? you might be able to attach that cold air pipe to he vent in the front panel that feeds the airbox (a la pd160 pipe stylee) rather than taking in warm air from behind the radiator... just a thought :thumbup:

I'm breathing in.......and out............and in..........and out............relax......Pics......(not full current)......not got the Magnacor leads yet and I've altered the join on the breather pipe slightly...engine1.jpgengine2.jpgB)

Oooh I do like a clean engine bay. :yes:

does the 1.4 fabia have the same front panel as the diesel ones? you might be able to attach that cold air pipe to he vent in the front panel that feeds the airbox (a la pd160 pipe stylee) rather than taking in warm air from behind the radiator... just a thought :thumbup:

I don't think so looking at the pics. Fair point though Tom. It's gotta be sucking up warmer air than it could be if the air feed was routed differently?

does the 1.4 fabia have the same front panel as the diesel ones? you might be able to attach that cold air pipe to he vent in the front panel that feeds the airbox (a la pd160 pipe stylee) rather than taking in warm air from behind the radiator... just a thought :thumbup:

Almost fitted it this way....as per the MKII Fabia/Roomster etc........

Decided against it tho' as with all the carp (waterspray etc) that comes in through it I decided to have the inlet just to the side so it still gets a good blast (better than OEM) of cold air...it dosn't take all the carp (would have to fabricate a drain point/trap). It also allows me to fit my 2/3 full blanking/diverter plate across the slam panel opening in deep winter so it gets warmer air from the engine bay!

The rad fans (when both kick in) dish out cool air (thats what it feels like when you get near them......and there is an air inlet/scoop in the engine bay under tray beneith this area....so it gets enough cool air!

If you want to improve it then defo fit the double skinned silver/alu flexi/accordian pipe instead of the black one that I fitted......... B)

EDIT..

Point out that the hole in the slam panel is right next to the air inlet....the "funnel" is pointing straight at it!!...just that it is slightly to the side!....The hole is right under the full width of the stickers on the slam panel in the top photo!!!!!!

isnt there a hole under the drivers side headlight as well where the intercooler pipes go through on the diesels that you could use? might be better than running the duct over the top of the exhaust manifold, plus the ductwork would be shorter too which is a plus

The plugs and leads need replacing on ANY 1.4 16v over a certain age because they deteriorate badly due to continual pinking from running standard unleaded, I'm surprised they didn't replace the coil pack as well since these tend to suffer heat damage as the plugs and leads break down.

Shouldn't the knock sensor stop it pinking, albeit at the cost of power?

isnt there a hole under the drivers side headlight as well where the intercooler pipes go through on the diesels that you could use? might be better than running the duct over the top of the exhaust manifold, plus the ductwork would be shorter too which is a plus

I don't like running the air inlet low as I've had to go through v.deep water when the roads flood up here!!!!..........

I spent ages trying to figure out the best way!!!.........Also I didn't want to have to fit sharp 90deg bends........so that big smooth bend alu pipe is there for a reason (keeps the air flow smooth between the filter and the valve).....other kits (like the one Big Jase fitted to his Lupo) although might have the filter pointing the same way etc use a sharp 90deg bend....which I didn't want ...... B)

Shouldn't the knock sensor stop it pinking, albeit at the cost of power?

in short no, i think dave was probably referring to pre ignition.. the carbon build up on the plug makes a hot spot which prematurely fires off the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder, this is exactly the reason you shouldnt fiddle with spark plugs on these engines like the heat ranges and electrode sizes etc, they run quite close the compression ratio limit as they are..

the knock sensor will wind the ignitition advance back and limit fueling till the knocking ceases... be aware though that allowing continued detonation to happen will muller the head gasket in next to no time or could even melt a valve

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