Hey folks.

Question for you.

When I did my last oil change it looks like the sump plug has been over-tightended at some point and stripped the threads. The plug is sealed (no leaks) but when I do the oil next I don't want to use my rubbish pump again that didn't get all the oil out.

So my question is do you think it's better to get a new sump or get the hole helicoiled?

Phil

Hey folks.

Question for you.

When I did my last oil change it looks like the sump plug has been over-tightended at some point and stripped the threads. The plug is sealed (no leaks) but when I do the oil next I don't want to use my rubbish pump again that didn't get all the oil out.

So my question is do you think it's better to get a new sump or get the hole helicoiled?

Phil

some one does "next sizeup" plugs which may be easier

Wouldn't have thought getting it helocoiled would cost too much, I would guess it is far cheaper than a new sump. But as above says a next size up sump plug might be the best option (obviously with a drill and retap!).

Ah right. So literally use a bigger sump plug?

Phil

For Info, though strictly not comparable, I had a heliocoil job done on a Honda motorcycle sump by local engineering firm some years ago. That cost about £30 then (1977) (Quite expensive) because in addition to stripping the thread, I had also split the crankcase by overtightening (Didn't know my own strength)and they had to do some make good gas welding on the aluminium - so about a tun now. That was the most effective way to do it then 'cause the sump and crankcase were combined and made of cast metal (much more expensive to buy a replacement)

If the sump were made of pressed metal then it would probably be cheaper to buy a new sump and it isn't possible to heliocoil a stamping, it will probably be too thin metal.

Looking on the web looks like the Cordoba's and the Octavia's sump is cast metal - aluminium. Not sure about the Fab could be cast or a heavy pressing.Octavia also appears to have an inner light pressed steel oil pan - so no drilling through the sump in situ otherwise you will pierce that.

Prices for the castings seem highly variable from £40-80. So price wise, probably not much in it between getting a new casting or heliocoiling an old one. Similarly, ideally both methods require the sump to removed from the crankcase - you can't do a proper job of reaming out an old thread orifice with a hand-held black and decker.

So really the only advantage of getting a replacement sump is that its more likely not to spring a leak in future ? (Both repair and replacement would carry a 3-month warranty if fitted by a garage).

If you do decide to heliocoil, you want to check for splits in the aluminium 'cause alu hasn't got the same torsional strength as steel. Any half competent engineering shop people will spot a split and tell you.

Nick

Edited 18 February, 201214 yr by Clunkclick

If the threads are stripped how did you manage the oil tight seal?

When you say the threads are stripped I assume you mean the female thread in the sump and not the male threads on the plug??

If it is the sump you will have to remove it any way you dont want to try any work with it still on the engine

it will be very awkward and also any drilling will produce swarf which you dont want in your engine

If a helicoil is fitted these can go wrong if not fitted correctly, for the cost involved, peace of mind and if it failed (leaked)

I would fit a new sump ,or second hand one but make sure it is checked with new plug before parting with cash, take some one with you who knows what to look for.

If it was me I would replace the sump. I'm just like this though I don't want any further problems.

Thanks guys.

I pick up a new sump pretty cheaply so will probably go down that route.

I don't know if it's the plug or the sump. The plug turns and turns without going in/out but it isn't leaking so I didn't want to try and force it out in case I couldn't get it to create a seal again.

Phil

Get a new sump and change the oil pick up pipe while your at it

If it just turns and turns then its bad I would be worried about driving it.

Get it sorted straight away.

Get a new sump and plug and washer. No point damaging a new sump with an old/ damaged plug.

Dont overtighten plug take it easy you dont need to be heavy handed if your not sure ask some one here near to you to show you.

Check your oil level to make sure you dont have a small leak it may only drip when engine running with any pressure/ heat increase.

Edited 23 February, 201214 yr by mylot

It's dry as a bone down there. I check the oil every week.

When I changed the oil and tried to get the plug out it was stuck solid... no movement in/out just turning and turning so it's in there solid.

Need to add it to the list of stuff to sort out! Inlucding CV boots inner and outer, and sorting the leak of the gearbox oil.

Phil

Are you using a socket or spanner to try to undo it? Can you see the plug turning?? or just by the feel of it you think the plug is turning and turning.

You may have a worn socket or spanner or the hexagonal head of the plug is rounded off so it feels like the plug is turning around and around but it may be the socket/spanner slipping on the plug.

Make sure you can see the plug itself turning.

We play tricks on new lads starting out and tell them to take a bolt out with a well worn socket but they dont know its worn/useless (so they can't see the head of the bolt not turning) after a while of failing we tell them to stand aside while we show them how to do it (distracting them while swapping the worn socket for a good one) and whip the bolt out quick then pass back the wrench (distracting them again while we put the worn socket back on) and tell them to try the next one. It realy is cruel but very very funny to watch them.

That's just cruel! lol

Yes it's definitely turning. I used a spanner on it and so could see the nut turning.

I know what you mean though. Done that before.

Phil