I'm new to modding cars (my youth wasn't mis-spent), but have been considering lowering and stiffening the suspension prior to brake upgrades and remap. I'm not after all out performance (it's a 140 PD estate pre-FL), but I'm going to be keeping the car for quite a while and want to enjoy it a little bit more occasionally while still being able to move the family around comfortably).

With that in mind, would this be the most logical order to do this in (I can only do it in stages due to flow income of funds):

• Lowering springs on standard shocks;
  
• RARB;
  
• Four wheel laser alignment;
  
• Larger alloys (16" from 15");
  
• Brakes;
  
• Remap.
  

Any comments?

Anything I have missed?

Thanks.

Why would you get a RARB before wheel allignment?

I don't know. That's why I asked the question...

Doesn't the RARB effect the geometry of the rear suspension? I believe the lowering springs would.

Maybe this would be a better order?

• RARB;
  
• Lowering springs on standard shocks & Four wheel laser alignment;
  
• Larger alloys (16" from 15");
  
• Brakes (312mm);
  
• Remap.
  

I don't know either, that's why i asked hoping somebody else would answer...ha :p

But I have never heard of putting a RARB upgrade in for a suspension upgrade, i know I wont be when i put my H+R lowering springs on.

Are you suggesting that a spring upgrade could achieve the lowering effect and also control the 'rolling' without the need for a RARB and that having both is 'overkill'?

If so, perhaps I could channel the money from the RARB into having better suspension (or possibly justifying new shocks and well as springs).

Anyone else have thoughts on this?

Well i'd have though new springs and some new shocks (KYB are a good, low budget make), would control this without the need for a RARB, but i'm not certain on that.

Good write up on fitting an upgraded RARB

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/152785-fitting-a-new-rear-anti-roll-bar-on-a5-chassis/

Thanks for the link. I had seen the thread and realised how easy fitting a RARB was so had planned on doing it myself.

Now the seed of doubt has been sown - do I need a RARB if I upgrade the springs or springs & shocks?

No point wasting money! Are lowering shocks & springs a better upgrade than lowering springs (on stock shocks) and a RARB?

Anyone?

Well, it depends what your wanting to do with your car in all fairness. There's no doubt about it, a new RARB will improve your handling, but if its just commuting/driving to work etc your going to be doing then I don't see any need for a new RARB as new shocks will be just as effective.

On the other hand, if your wanting to 'race', then getting a new RARB aswell as new suspension AND shocks would be your best bet to improve overall handling of the way.

Thats my take on it anyway.

Check out this website and read the comments about it:

http://www.jabbasport.com/store/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=prodshow&ref=JSARB

Hope this helps.

Edited 28 March, 201214 yr by Barneylita

Thanks Barneylita.

Not wanting to race, but wanting the car to be lowered and be more responsive round corners as well as more fun to drive (faster) occasionally.

Have noticed a little unpredictable bounce /wobble round corners that I think might be the sidewalls of the tyres on the 15" alloys flexing under pressure. I also want to get rid of the body roll that is quite noticeable on the estate.

I have seen a set of Eibach Sport Line (the red springs) for under £100 which seems like a bargain. Would these be much harsher ride than the Pro-kit ones?

Is there any difference in the amount it lowers the car? (it's not a Vrs that I have, so would expect the red Eibach's to lower 32mm)

Given that the car has over 100k on the clock and original shocks, would it be wise to replace these before they fail and go for the standard Skoda sports suspension kit?

If this is a long term thing you are wanting to do, then maybe getting a RARB aswell would be best suited to you.

The Sport Line springs are not too bad, but with anything, 'you get what you pay for', so if I were you id fork out the extra, what is it, £50-100 for the pro-kit ones.

I can't see it making any difference in the ammount the car is lowered by.

As for the skoda sports suspension kit, that seems overpriced, you could get some brand new/second hand good springs that are better than those and cheaper. For example, the Eibach pro-kit springs and KYB Shocks could be picked up for around £300-£350.

Hope this helps.

Managed to find some detailed info on the Eibach website and the Sportline lowers the car 1.5"-2" (depending upon make, but it also says 1.7"-2.3" elsewhere in their documentation) while the Pro-Kit is 1"-1.5", and that sounds enough for me so I'll be on the look out for a set of those now.

Thanks also to 'Falkster' on this forum for some advice about local suppliers that could help me out and for some idea of pricing. Seems £150 for the Pro-kit springs, £150 for fitting and about £60-80 for alignment is about right.

Can anyone confirm whether the RARB affects the geometry and whether it would need the suspension realigning after fitting one?

If not, I'll probably go for the Eibach Pro-kit (Best price so far: £151.91 from DC Performance) and alignment in one hit and see if I feel it needs a RARB after that...

I can't see why it would need re-aligning as you are are just effectively attaching a pole across both back wheels and not actually moving anything.

Best asking a mechanic for that though

Now taken the plunge and gone for these springs off eBay as, I believe, these are the Skoda supplied ones (they are in a Skoda supplied box with part number ZGB1Z3071677 on the side) which are red for estate and black for hatch Octavias.

Midland VW have quoted me £175 inc VAT for fitting and full geometry alignment which seems like a very good price.

Total of £267 seems pretty good to me.

Let's hope that the standard shocks aren't too bouncy with the new springs on and 32mm lower than normal...

That doesn't seem too bad at all. But, what you have to think about is if you are going to end up getting shocks in the near future, it will cost you more to take the springs and shocks off to put the new shocks on that it would if you were replacing both springs and shocks in the first place as you can compress them both before changing. If that makes sense....!

It does - but I'm hoping that just the springs will be enough for me. I'm not after a really sporty experience, just better than at present (and a bit lower).

According to W8 Performance (who have a group buy on Whiteline ARB's at present) the wheels won't need realigning after fitting one.

Going to see how I get on with the springs and go from there.

Thanks for all the advice and guidance.

if you car has done more than 100k it makes sense to replace at least the fronts shocks, at it will save you on labour costs later, go for some like Bilstein B4s (OEM replacements) or B6/B8 (if you want better handling). The rears shocks wont involve much more labour cost if decide to replace these later,

My 57 L&K estate was too wobbly round bends. I have fitted a Whiteline RARB, middle stiffness, and superpro front bushes. I originally intended to go further, stiffer spings etc but not lowering as I need the clearance/load capacity. I do lots of long distances, with frequent heavy loads and any increase in NVH was to be avoided. I have also smashed the sump once when driving in France. Many of the minor roads in the south which I use can be very rough and I don't need that again.

However the first two changes have transformed the feel of the car with no loss of comfort. I did get the car lazer aligned, which on top of the other changes has iimproved the car immeasurably. No wollowing, once set up into a corner, the line can be adjusted with the throttle.

Perhaps better damping to improve ride. I like the Bilsteins, but a bit spendy for me.

Original fitment weedy 288mm brakes were severly cooked during an alpine traverse. Not nice to have to have to nurse your brakes when you have 100 miles of mountains to get up and down. I got some practically new 312's from ebay, and once bedded in have been great. Much more powerful and no fade (yet) crossing the alps even with a considerable load. I could fit a set of 16" with snow tyres should I need to.

The car came with 17", and looks fine to me. Not a fan of the slammed look as it generally just means harsh and uncomfortable. Also the geometry is altered so handling actually is worse unless you have a big budget.

Interesting thread!

I've done it / doing it a different route - remap first, after all your right foot / brain connection is as good an anti-skid & traction control device as any and the standard car is dangerous enough in the wrong hands (feet?); my approach is going to be:

- 4 wheel alignment immediately as I have an issue with rear tyre wear and steering wheel alignment

- uprated springs and dampers, but not lowered as I don't want to risk grounding it out on speed humps etc

This should sort out the stability and floaty feeling at speed, don't necessarily want any more cornering grip as it only hurts more when it goes wrong, and anyway more power than grip is more fun.

Note sure what to do after that, either the exhaust, or possibly uprate bushes / RARB.

why 4 wheel allignment before springs and dampers? its just going to need to be done again once you get new springs and dampers on.

Less so than if the vehicle was being lowered. But from what I have read / learned it seems better to do the springs / dampers first and realign ASAP after.

Only because I can get the alignment done now. Suspension upgrades are a few months away, and I don't want to leave it that long before checking it.

I've got just over a week until I get the springs fitted and I've decided to get the dampers and top mounts replaced at the same time after reading advice on this forum.

Went to order Bilstein B4's from Blance Motorsport website and had to look at the Bilstein catalogue. Not a problem, or so I thought...

I don't know the part numbers of the OEM shocks to be able to match theirs with and don't know whether I have 50mm or 55mm outer diameter? Can anyone quickly help please?

I have a '07 Octavia estate PD 140 with standard suspension and I will be having Skoda / Eibach lowering springs fitted (up to 32mm drop). Please can anyone advise as I'm confused.

Thanks.

Does anyone know a cheap place to get B4's for an Octavia from?

I know the vrs is 55mm but couldnt tell you about the non vrs's

On the brakes side ive the 312mm setup for sale on here but its going on ebay tonight as no offers. Item number is 110882402299

Starting price off 95 delivered