I have an Elegance but no locking wheels nuts, anyone else get them as standard?

Yup, should be standard

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Yes.They should be fitted as they are standard.

Mine has them as standard.

Thanks all, will email dealer!

I have them, as supplied, but am going to replace them with normal bolts.

When I came to change from my winters I found myself unable to remove them.They had been properly torqued and I have an extendable bar and the problem was I couldn't keep the "key" sufficiently firm on the bolt head. I think the design is iffy unless you are using an impact gun which produces the requisite torque and pressure.

I understand why people like them but I don't perceive wheel theft as a big problem.

you sure your not just looking at the plastic covers that go over each nut hiding the actual nuts on some alloy wheel models as my neighbour did this once spent ages trying to find a wheel brace that fitted his bolts before he found out by me pointing it out that he had not taken the bolt covers off as they looked just like the normal bolts

Edited 27 March, 201214 yr by Yetigreenline2

you sure your not just looking at the plastic covers that go over each nut hiding the actual nuts on some alloy wheel models as my neighbour did this once spent ages trying to find a wheel brace that fitted his bolts before he found out by me pointing it out that he had not taken the bolt covers off as they looked just like the normal bolts

In the underfloor box In the boot, you should find a small black plastic miniature pair of tongs stored vertically in a cut-out. They are common to all VAG cars and are used to removed the hex-headed grey plastic caps that cover the wheel bolts on your Elegance. One cap will be larger than the others and should be covering the locking nut. Of course, you should also have the locking nut key which can be stored adjacent to the tongs in another cut-out in the underfloor box. For more info, check the manual under changing a wheel.

Let us know how you went on!

John H

IMHO the locking nuts are a waste of time and a pain to use. Mine was delivered with them, but they were replaced with standard nuts at the dealer immediately.

Wheel theft is no longer a real big problem and the professional thieves know how to defeat them anyway. In addition, the plastic caps for the locking nuts are different from the standard ones - a pain to figure out, as the difference is difficult to see.

I have them, as supplied, but am going to replace them with normal bolts.

When I came to change from my winters I found myself unable to remove them.They had been properly torqued and I have an extendable bar and the problem was I couldn't keep the "key" sufficiently firm on the bolt head. I think the design is iffy unless you are using an impact gun which produces the requisite torque and pressure.

I had exactly the same issue on my Superb, my solution was to buy the older (spline drive) locking wheel bolts.

the plastic caps for the locking nuts are different from the standard ones - a pain to figure out, as the difference is difficult to see.

It really isn't that difficult if you look at the inside of the cap, the locking one is both larger and also it's round rather than nut shaped.

Ok cough, cough .....ummm errr....yes I admit RTFM I found that I do have them, but it did'nt look like it honesr....hangs head in shame!

When I came to change from my winters I found myself unable to remove them.... the problem was I couldn't keep the "key" sufficiently firm on the bolt head. I think the design is iffy unless you are using an impact gun which produces the requisite torque and pressure.

I've changed from winter wheels to summers and back twice now and I've never had a moment's problem with the locking wheel nut key. That was using a torque wrench about 40cm long, with a short extension bar on the socket. You only need one hand to exert the necessary force to turn the nut, the other hand holds the head of the wrench in place.

I understand why people like them but I don't perceive wheel theft as a big problem.

It used to be, until people started using locking wheel nuts!

I have them, as supplied, but am going to replace them with normal bolts.

When I came to change from my winters I found myself unable to remove them.They had been properly torqued and I have an extendable bar and the problem was I couldn't keep the "key" sufficiently firm on the bolt head. I think the design is iffy unless you are using an impact gun which produces the requisite torque and pressure.

Assuming it's a folding brace, which i think it probably is, this from Lidl is a better bet for undoing the locking bolt if you struggle with an extending wrench:

Speedsport, thanks for that and I'm sure it would do a better job as it would allow me to apply force axially as well as radially (I think that's what I mean) I still have a distrust for locking wheel nuts though and will probably dispense with them.

For anyone interested the part No. for the (better) older type of locking wheel bolts is CFA 071 004

For anyone interested the part No. for the (better) older type of locking wheel bolts is CFA 071 004

Are they really better? I had a set on my Octavia and after 3 years of use they were becoming decidedly difficult to use.

On the other hand aren't the current type modeled on the McGard system; they seem perfectly alright to me.

The current Skoda locking bolts are indeed of the McGard variety.

Are they really better? I had a set on my Octavia and after 3 years of use they were becoming decidedly difficult to use.

On the other hand aren't the current type modeled on the McGard system; they seem perfectly alright to me.

IMO yes they are much better as they are deeper and there is more area for the insert to get a purchase on the inside of the bolt.

The newer ones may well be more secure and have more combinations but there is less area for purchase, resulting in one of my bolts damaging the tool slightly making removal impossible.

I've just had a slow puncture repaired on my Yeti. It took some effort.

I have no spare (can of gunk and an electric compressor instead). Looking in the boot I found no wheel brace (unsurprisingly) but worryingly no key for the wheel bolts. The handbook lists a wheel bolt key but with an asterisk against it, suggesting it isn't always supplied. My dealer (Platinum, Bath) couldn't actually tell me if I should have a key or not; they were however extremely helpful in making an exhaustive search of the car, and then ordering a replacement for which I had to pay. (The reliable way of getting the correct key, they told me, is to photograph the bolt head close up, and so it proved.)

Is the wheel bolt key really an optional item on cars so equipped? Can anyone shed any light on this?

I've twice removed the locking bolts from my son's VW Golf when he's lost the keys; this wasn't hard to do even for me, so I don't imagine they present a challenge to members of the wheel-thieving community. However, the Yeti would give me a serious problem because of the limited clearance.

I have the gunk and compressor and the key for the bolts. its stored in the boot next to the hole with the gunk and compressor, ( to the left of the hole )

Even with no spare wheel, you should still have a wheel brace, a wheel nut key, and the plastic pliers to remove the plastic nut caps. If you don't have alloys, there should also be a wire with a loop at one end and a hook at the other to remove wheel trims. Did you buy the car new? If so, your dealer should supply all the missing bits FOC.

Yes, it was supplied new from the dealer (June last year). I admit I didn't check all the bits under the carpet in the load bay at the time, though I did devise a more secure way of stowing the compressor, which was lying loose. I do have the wire hook for removing the plastic caps. I don't have any recollection of the other items.

The car has been in for rear end repairs twice: once for new glass (builder's van with an insecure load on the roof) and once for crash repairs (hit and run in a supermarket car park). Either occasion could account for bits getting lost, though I'm fairly sure that whatever was missing was missing all along.

What do you think are my chances of getting anywhere by making a fuss about it after this time has elapsed?

What do you think are my chances of getting anywhere by making a fuss about it after this time has elapsed?

two hopes .....

Bob Hope and no hope. (sorry).

Being serious; my best suggestion is to liaise with your dealer for the bits you should have and persuade him to give you a decent discount on getting the bits you need. Good luck.

When I got my Yeti the locking wheel nut key and pliers were in the glove box, in finally taking the inside of the car apart the other week for a good clean I noticed some area's where it looked like they should be stored. I was part of the spare wheel tool kit under the spare(obv different for those without spare wheels).

I'm intrigued to know what the other gaps are for, another area has an obvious gap for a detachable tow bar amongst other things

two hopes .....

Being serious; my best suggestion is to liaise with your dealer for the bits you should have and persuade him to give you a decent discount on getting the bits you need. Good luck.

When I got my Yeti the locking wheel nut key and pliers were in the glove box, in finally taking the inside of the car apart the other week for a good clean I noticed some area's where it looked like they should be stored. I was part of the spare wheel tool kit under the spare(obv different for those without spare wheels).

I'm intrigued to know what the other gaps are for, another area has an obvious gap for a detachable tow bar amongst other things

If you go to the Plumbers excellent post "Spare Wheel Assembly" in the Yeti Technical guides section, you'll find a photo of all the kit stowed correctly in the lower box (11th photo down, red car), a photo of all the items laid out separately (13th photo), & also a list of all the part numbers later in the section.

As the lower box is different on 2wd models from 2011, there's also photos of the later underfloor box too (blue car).