Changing rear shocks

[softscoop]

I've had a search for this, but can't find all the info I need.

After a bit of brisk drive on the WSM meet, confirmed that one of my rear shocks is buggered.

Got an advisory for it on MoT a few weeks ago. Can get replacement Weitec shocks from DPM, however can it be done on a drive?

Bolts shouldn't be seized as coilovers weren't fitted long ago, and new top mounts were fitted at the same time.

Are any special tools needed, or is it just normal spanners and socket sets?

Could take it back to the garage where they were fitted, but don't really want to pay labour again if I can avoid it.

[DanGum]

If i remember correctly i removed the wheel and arch lining then used a socket set for the 2 bolts that hold the top mount in place (unsure of size). Then a 16mm spanner/socket combo for the bottom bolt which goes through the damper at the bottom.

I think thats all there is to it, i did it a while back though!

[PastyBoy]

yep i asked a similar question here and was told - unbolt, unbolt, remove, replace, bolt up, bolt up

Fronts seemed to be a bit more tricky

[softscoop]

Ahh brilliant. Exactly what I wanted to see

Luckily is rear offside only, but I will change both sides.

[rum4mo]

Just so you will not get confused/concerned, these rear dampers will want to extend when they are removed, so you will need to ease the bottom up with a screwdriver or so - or grab them and try to compress them a bit. That is why the new ones tend to come with a strap round them - no big deal but fore warned is fore armed!

[Jim H]

Can I ask a question

When changing my wheels around on Saturday, I noticed the damper cover had dropped and the shaft was showing.

Is it serous (MOT failure), a new damper or just a new bumpstop. If it's only a new bump stop, then do I have to remove the damper?

I was going to start my own thread but thought I'll put it in here instead.

[rum4mo]

Yes its just new bump stops needed, and yes you do need to take the damper off completely to make life easier. The one on the other side must be nearly in this condition as well.

[softscoop]

I'm now in possession of new shocks, so if the weather is any good, will be attempting this at the weekend.

Does anyone know what torque figures the bolts should be done up to?

[Jim H]

I'm now in possession of new shocks, so if the weather is any good, will be attempting this at the weekend.

Does anyone know what torque figures the bolts should be done up to?

Looking at Haynes manual, they should be:

Lower Mounting nut and bolt: 30 lbft (40Nm), then tighten a further 90°

Upper mounting bracket to body bolts : 22 lbft (30Nm), then another 90°

Upper mounting nut to bracket: 18 lbft (25Nm)

It also reconmends you renew the nut and bolts when every time they are removed.

[martinch]

Is it serous (MOT failure), a new damper or just a new bumpstop. If it's only a new bump stop, then do I have to remove the damper?

It's just a new bump-stop. I had the same issue a while ago and made a post on it, which has got the part number in it, if you need it. As has been said, it's just a case of removing the damper, replacing the bump stop and twisting the stone guard on, and putting it all back.

[softscoop]

Thanks for the info folks.

Just got these changed on the drive with no issues

[tigerbiker]

Hope this helps anyone. It is fairly easy to do. 

[sepulchrave]

Well it would but this thread's been dead for seven years, so...

[softscoop]

Yes I sold the vRS over 4 years ago and is now scrapped as far as I'm aware.

 

Poor old car.

Edited 31 January, 2019 by softscoop