Pre-FL Octavia 2.0 TDI PS140 low mileage - only about 25k

Just had the 4 year variable service + timing belt done - didn't replace pulleys etc ... apparently they need doing at 80K

Technician reported the following - how important are these things? (are the expensive?)

• Slight leak from inter-cooler seals
  
• slight play in NSF steering arm
  
• pollen filter due
  
• coolant contaminated - suggest rebook for flush and possibly new coolent bottle (I guess it's never been flushed). Oil and water did need one top up about a month before the service - that's all that's been needed in the last two years
  

By the way, car is going on holiday to central France in June, so going to be doing a few Kms on that trip.

Edited 14 April, 201214 yr by peterhr

Pollen filter is cheap so I'd definitely do that. 2 min job too

Not sure in the rest

Coolant is important and i'd do the i/c seals too to stop dust and dirt getting into the engine or a boost leak.

Steering arm, depends how slight, but it'll need doing eventually.

Pollen filter is a doddle to DIY.

Filter is under £10 for an active charcoal one, you undo two plastic thumbnuts under the passenger side dash, pull back the foam, slide a cover to one side, pull out the old filter and dirt, then push the new filter in and put it all back.

There is a good chance it'll be hot in central France in June, assuming the car will be heavily laden too then I'd definitely want the coolant issue sorting before I set off.

Its more important to ask why and how the coolant is contaminated? Topping up just once with water will not "contaminate", and at 4 years 25k, the coolant should still be as new (is it still bright pink?) - Contaminated conjures up a picture of oil or corrosives in the coolant in which case there is a serious problem that a flush will only mask for a while. Check it out and ask as they may just be "milking" you.

Not changing the tensioner/ider pulleys when changing the cambelt is definitely extremely poor service as it is those items that generally fail first rather than the cambelt.

All the other items are the usual "advisories" issued by many garages looking to create work.

Edited 14 April, 201214 yr by xman

Double post, sorry

Edited 14 April, 201214 yr by xman

Its more important to ask why and how the coolant is contaminated? Topping up just once with water will not "contaminate", and at 4 years 25k, the coolant should still be as new (is it still bright pink?) - Contaminated conjures up a picture of oil or corrosives in the coolant in which case there is a serious problem that a flush will only mask for a while. Check it out and ask as they may just be "milking" you.

The coolant bottle was also mentioned so perhaps this is the source of the suspect contamination?

I agree not replacing the tensioners and pulleys really was a bad move, while you are in there it really makes sense to do a proper job.

The genuine Skoda cambelt kit comes complete with the tensioners and pulleys so it sounds like a bit of a quick fix to me?

It would have been a good idea to change the water pump as well. If it fails the cambelt would probably snap.

OK, I've drawn some coolent out of the tank, and it looks a bit orange

- a swab from inside the tank seems to be rust like deposit (not at all oily)

By the way the service was done at a Skoda dealership - so they may have done the pulleys & Tensioners and just given me a customer winning quote for the work

Edited 14 April, 201214 yr by peterhr

Hmmm, that is not the colour it should be, mine is bright pink (similar to the picture), to me yours looks like you say... rusty!

If the cambelt was done by a Skoda dealer then I'd be very suprised if they only did the belt, although I'd be tempted to ask them.

Edited 14 April, 201214 yr by silver1011

I replaced a couple of intercooler seals. They are just O rings but quite dear (€7 each IIRC).

I had disturbed them when I removed the pipe to the EGR to see how that was looking. One of the seals seemed to have absorbed a little oil and had gone soft. When I put the pipe back the O rings dragged on the metal fittings and one of them wouldn't let the clip secure the pipe properly.

The result was a leak resulting in VERY poor running. Then the pipe blew off its fitting when I went above 30 mph. If you have an intercooler charge leak you will be down on power/use too much fuel. You may go into Limp Home mode and if the pipe blows off you will break down at the side of the road.

Just my opinion, but I would replace them if you trust the garage.

I'd agree with Silver1011 & others. You are going long distance to warmer climes with a fully loaded car; then get it all sorted. Coolant definitely as you don't want it giving way in warmer temps. Also as said any leaks from the intercooler will induce poor running and could bring dust and dirt into the turbo, not good! And if your fully loaded I'd not want any play in the steering. Extra load in the rear will affect stearing feel and this could only make it worse.

Ask yourself this, what's it going to cost if it gives way abroad? A lot more than fixing it beforehand!

IMHO the pollen filter only makes life more pleasent for the occupants, not the mechanical running of the car. so if you have to save on anything...!

Thanks guys,

All taken on board - now I just need to find time to get the car seen to.

• The coolent does very much look like rust - to me that suggests the inhibitor isn't working well (or maybe has been topped with tap water at some time, not de-ionised) - apparently the additive has a life of 5 years anyway so needs doing anyway, so get that done and keep an eye on it.
  
• The intercooler seals sound like a fairly trivial job.
  
• The steering will need looking at to find out exactly what needs doing.
  
• I agree with the sentiment on the pollen filter about comfort - but it might also affect the amount of fine dust that magically sticks to the inside of the screen as the car is driven
  

You know - I wish they'd let me know about these (and priced them for parts & labour) at the time of the service and not in the written report given when the car was handed back.

Also need to get a pair of tyres for the front to replace the Dunlop SP1s that are at 3mm - thinking if Michelin energy savers

Edited 15 April, 201214 yr by peterhr

+1 Michelin energy savers

Id replace the coolant & keep the others under observation & check them again next service,shouldnt the pollen filter have been changed as part of the service anyway,i thought it was to be replaced every 2 years.

Tyre wise I'd say Michelin Primacy 3 would be my choice, but the energy savers are fine too.

In the past I felt that the none energy savers gave better traction in slightly damp conditions, but it's all subjective so if you're happy with the ES, they are a good tyre.

That coolant looks just like water and has no proper "coolant" in it at all.

A non advisable way to check coolant is to dab a very small amount on the tongue if its sweet then its got coolant in. It may be that is has some in buts been topped up with normal water over time so you get the nice rust colour. All cars will give you coolant that colour if theres more water than coolant in the engine

When you get the coolant done, make sure they use real G12+ or whatever the current version of it is.

VW/Skoda/Audi/Seat garages will all sell you this.

The only (one) time I've topped up coolent I put about 1/4L of water in, prior owner was skoda garage (service managers car) and has only been Skoda serviced. I suppose it's too much to hope only the proper coolent was used at other times.

Actually the car is running very well right now 43+ miles per gal in town - 53+ on a motorway.

Well theres something seriously wrong then. For that amount of corrosion, there is either no or little G12 in it - i.e. most of the coolant got dumped and replaced with water or there is some other corrosion issue that has used up all the corrosion inhibitor element.

A 4 year old car on 25,000 miles, especially ex Skoda the coolant should "as new" - even with 1/4 litre water added.

When did you notice the rusty coolant - was it always like that?

Pre-FL Octavia 2.0 TDI PS140 low mileage - only about 25k

Just had the 4 year variable service...

Technician reported the following - how important are these things? (are the expensive?)

• pollen filter due
  

Surely if the filter is due replacement then it's because it's a part of the service schedule and they should have changed it as part of the service?

It's like saying at a service that your oil and oil filter need changing but not actually changing them.

Or am I being totally niave here?

Surely if the filter is due replacement then it's because it's a part of the service schedule and they should have changed it as part of the service?

Or am I being totally niave here?

Very likely yes.All the things I would imagine would be in a "full service" are actually separate items with time and or distance intervals that don't necessarily coincide with the oil and inspection services. As far as I can tell they change the oil and filter on a one year service and do the same - only more seriously and for twice the money - on the two year/inspection/variable service.Basically, dealers get paid a load of money to change the oil (simple DIY) or inspect the car (also known as an MOT which you were going to do anyway), and the stuff you really need and want them to do they either charge extra for or don't bother to do anyway.For a long time I thought the only honest mechanic in England was Kevin Webster on Corronation Street. Now we know better.By the way OP, that coolant is seriously contaminated. Mine is 4 years old and 36000 miles and looks like new. You might get a hydrometer and test it, because it looks like rusty water?

Edited 18 April, 201214 yr by FriendlyFire

Very likely yes.All the things I would imagine would be in a "full service" are actually separate items with time and or distance intervals that don't necessarily coincide with the oil and inspection services. As far as I can tell they change the oil and filter on a one year service and do the same - only more seriously and for twice the money - on the two year/inspection/variable service.Basically, dealers get paid a load of money to change the oil (simple DIY) or inspect the car (also known as an MOT which you were going to do anyway), and the stuff you really need and want them to do they either charge extra for or don't bother to do anyway.

Having just had my 2nd year (or 20,000 miles) service done I'm of the same opinion. Looking at my service book it would appear I've paid quite a lot of money for two oil changes and not a lot more. Most things appear to be 20K miles rather than 2 years, and as my car has done less than 20K miles they didn't get done. As the 3rd service would just be an oil change service, and my car will probably have reached 20K miles by then, I seriously doubt they'll get changed then so they just get missed. It all seems a bit of a con to me and I'm not a particularly happy driver.

Having just had my 2nd year (or 20,000 miles) service done I'm of the same opinion. Looking at my service book it would appear I've paid quite a lot of money for two oil changes and not a lot more. Most things appear to be 20K miles rather than 2 years, and as my car has done less than 20K miles they didn't get done. As the 3rd service would just be an oil change service, and my car will probably have reached 20K miles by then, I seriously doubt they'll get changed then so they just get missed. It all seems a bit of a con to me and I'm not a particularly happy driver.

Mine has just had its 4th (major service) at the local dealer,when i booked it in i made a point of asking if the pollen & air filter & spark plugs would be changed as part of the service,i inspected my car when i got it back & the wheels hadnt even been removed on the service(how you are meant to throughly inspect all the brakes/steering & suspension with the wheels still on is news to me,the dealer told me the "master technician" had booked 1.8 hours for the service.I suspect mine was put on ramp,oil & filter & air & pollen & spark plug replaced & some grease sprayed on the door hinges then put back outside,i expected more than this for a 4th year major service.

Oh and the air filter intake was left fitted incorrectly & loose & one of the clips had been sucked into the air filter & the oil level was low so yes i suspect it had a half arsed job done to it.All sorted now as i have rectifeid the co*k ups myself.