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Intercooler pipe work issues (poxy oem clip setup)

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Tonight I decided that as some of the joints on the Intercooler pipe work were leaking I'd strip and clean and seal them all. Took it for a test drive and all was well untill I fed power in coming out of a tight corner and as I started to put my foot down there was a loud pop and I knew one of the pipes had parted company. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas what would cause this its as though now its tightly sealed that there was too much pressure for the pipes to take. I was thinking maybe waste gate sticking shut or not opening fully? Any ideas welcome.

  • Author

Nobody got any ideas? Cheers.

Well I put a watch on this topic to see what it might elicit.

Have you considered you might just not have put it back together properly? Certainly a joint popped on my 2004vRS the day after a Skoda garage changed the cambelt. Once clipped back together again it was fine thereafter.

  • Author

Yeah I thought maybe I'd miss clipped it but I'd also cable tied at either side and looped them together with two more ties so it was more secure as with the clip alone it was quite wobbly before I took it apart which is why I did so. It smashed the cable ties to pieces like. Cheers.

Check the collar on the end of the boost pipe, if the lugs have worn down then it'll need replaced

  • Author

It is a slight bit worn but that's why I did the cable tie mod. It's never been a problem till I made it all air tight.

Very very common this. They are not a great design and if they are just a bit worn they will pop off quite easily.

The only option really is to either replace with new OEM parts or get an aftermarket silicone kit etc.

BTW these cars don't have a wastegate. They have variable vein turbos. Could be this mechanism that is sticking and the veins can't move fast enough to stop the turbo boosting. If you can get up underneath to where the turbo is then try moving the actuator arm and see if it is moving freely.

Phil

  • Author

Right thanks for the info on the turbo didn't realise that. I'll get it up onto the ramp tonight and have a look.

Very very common this. They are not a great design and if they are just a bit worn they will pop off quite easily.

The only option really is to either replace with new OEM parts or get an aftermarket silicone kit etc.

I'd recommend going for silicone pipes with forge aluminium couplings, they are the same fittings as the oem collars but are made from machined aluminium so will last much longer. Also at the cost of replacing the oem pipes, converting to silicone is about the same price. I sourced second hand couplings which made it cheaper.

  • Author

I'll look into it a mate of mine has some spare pipes and clips so if they are better ill use those. And I'll check the variable vein actuator rod make sure it's not seized.

  • Author

Right got a new clip that's in a lot better condition so will put that on and see what happens. Might not seal it up tight this time though as I've a lot of places to be this weekend so I'm thinking it was reliable before when it leaked so it still will be if I don't seal it as I think there was too much for it to take with the old clip. Although it might be better with the new clip. Any thoughts? Cheers.

Use a hoseclip as I did - much more positive than using cable ties - though you could try stainless steel versions of the latter...

  • Author

Well I've just put the new clip in now and then put a jubilee clip around that so that it can't be pushed out by the worn profile of the lugs on the pipe. Took it for a drive and it's stayed together so I'll order a new pipe as it still leaks because the lugs are so worn. Then hopefully all will be ok. Thanks for all the comments/ advice, james.

  • 5 years later...

5years later...

Did it work? If not what aftermarket hose did you buy?

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