Hi all,

Its been a while as I've been unable to access the site, so I'm playing catch up.

Some of you may remember I made a post a while ago about the sudden drop in power I was experiencing around 2500 rpm when taking off, I was also getting a fault code "pressure drop between turbo & throttle valve", the dealer said there was nothing wrong but after a lot of nagging he change the MAF sensor, the problem seemed to dissappear (well I didn't notice any pressure drops and didn't check fault codes). Well its back, also appearing now is the Testing Engine Electronics fault light.

I've brought it back twice and they reset the light but it appears again after 2 days driving. What they've now told me is that they've done some checks and seemingly the MAF is good and that the problem is due to the connectors on the wires that connet to the MAF, they are silver and should be gold. It'll take a week to get them in as they have to be shipped in.

Has anyone heard of this, maybe Big_k could shed some light on it or look into it for me.

I'm assuming that all RS's have the silver ones so why is mine giving problems. Mine is an early 01 model with 23000 miles (one of the first in Ireland anyway). When I originally saw the light the first thing I thought of was coil packs, but it has been on now for the best part of a month,( I was originally was told that if the car was running okay it would go of after 50 engine starts so didn't bring it in straight away).

Would the car run okay with this light on or would it run in a safe (reduced power mode)?.

GAFF,

Nice to see you back.

Your problem? If the error message is "17705: Pressure drop between Turbo and throttle valve" and you plug in VAG-COM rather than the dealers 1552 you get the full message (it adds a little on the end)

"17705: Pressure drop between Turbo and throttle valve (check DV!) 35-00"

I had it on mine, with the Forge. I'd neglected to re-grease it (which I do every 10k miles, only takes 5 mins) and lo and behold problem sorted

Get you dealer to swap the dump valve and the problem will go away.

Jon

->GAFF

I have have a similar problem on mine. About 4 or 5 times since the car was new(early 2002) I have had a sudden preassure drop, making the car very slow but without any CEL. This has occured in various driving conditions like outside temperatures etc. However, if I turn the ignition off and then starts the car again the car runs just fine. So, I took it to my local dealer and they got a fault code. They called V.A.G-Sweden and they said some of the intercooler piping and throttle sensor had to be changed(maybe just calibrate the throttle sensor). So, it seems like I'm not the first with this problem. I haven't had anything fixed yet but I'll get back with the results as soon as I have.

/ Christian

big_k,

Would you mind looking into this use of gold type wire connectors on the MAF instead of silver ?

The guy in the garage seems certain that this is causing my problem. From your experience what do you think the problem might be ?

can't say i've had this problem but i will see what i can do for ya btw did you get any fault codes. and have you done what jon has suggested?

big_k,

I think the code was the same as that mentioned by Jon.

I didn't try what he suggested as I normally leave any work under the bonnet to the garage.

Is there much involved in doing what he suggested, and where is the part located. Should the garage had tried this fix?

From what the garage have suggested ie type of connector, I thought all Rs's would be the same so would every RS have a silver one, and if the gold one fixes my problem, would they all need gold ones?

All help appreciated.

Thanks

Gaff, if you had error code "17705: Pressure drop between Turbo and throttle valve", it IS your dump valve at fault. Your dealer may not know that as they only have the above to work on. Trust me, my dealer refered the code to Skoda technical who were mystified by it as they hadn't seen it before. They only had the 17705 bit to work from. I told them the rest as my VAG COM gave me the rest of the info including the "check DV" bit.

It is a cheap part for the dealer to replace, well, its a lot cheapere than buggering about with the MAF and it will only take them under 5 mins to do the change.

Hope you get it sorted.

Jon

Over

What is the correct (ie VAG) description/name for the DV, please?

Is it 'cut-off valve' - Part No 06A 145 710 N?

Edit: In answer to my own question.....Cut-off valve = DV

FYI

The cables to the MAF were changed from ones with silver connectors to gold about 3 weeks ago and the light has stayed off