with good intentions im trying to replace a broken spring,front passenger side, but wanted to check something before i go on...

picture would be handier but camera phone aint working either so ill try descibe it best i can

so far all ive done really is remove hoses and wiring that needs moving. i have compress tool for spring so should icompress before removing too?

i can follow most of the haynes manual points but it doesnt mention the the link arm that joins the shock at the back of the cup that the spring sits into. the link runs down to, at a guess, the farb. i could be way off there but that looks about right. presume i have to detatch this link arm before removing the shock but it feels like its under pressure so not sure if i just go ahead and tap one end out or am i going wrong there!?!?

i havent undone the top mount nut yet either if that makes any difference..

thanks in advance

Hoses and wiring from shock?

You need to split the hub to get the shock out! An 8mm allen key grinded down on 2 opposide sides fits in perfectly and with a 90 degree turn the hub will open up and shock will be free! Spring needs compressed on the car to remove it

Drop link that connects strut to arb needs unbolted at arb end (leave attatched to shock)

Then you need to get shock out (not easy)

Best way i found was to jump on the disc to pull it out (a bit rough but does the trick) best keeping top mount bols in when you do this to hold shock.

To remove the top mount once shock is out you'll need a 21mm ring spanner and i think a 7mm allen key

Tbh its not simple and if your struggling a garage should charge about an 1 1/2 labour

Replacing the spring on just one side of the car is a REALLY bad idea, btw.

Hoses and wiring from shock?

You need to split the hub to get the shock out! An 8mm allen key grinded down on 2 opposide sides fits in perfectly and with a 90 degree turn the hub will open up and shock will be free! Spring needs compressed on the car to remove it

Drop link that connects strut to arb needs unbolted at arb end (leave attatched to shock)

Then you need to get shock out (not easy)

Best way i found was to jump on the disc to pull it out (a bit rough but does the trick) best keeping top mount bols in when you do this to hold shock.

To remove the top mount once shock is out you'll need a 21mm ring spanner and i think a 7mm allen key

Tbh its not simple and if your struggling a garage should charge about an 1 1/2 labour

cheers mate. abs sensor and another going to the caliper aswel. was told i had to remove caliper to make room. think my ring spanners run out at 20 jumping on the disc sounds interesting though dont know why haynes manuals dont include kicking spanners,a good ol clout with a hammer and now the disc jump hehe

thought a chizel might part the hub..anyway better get crackin. thanks again

Replacing the spring on just one side of the car is a REALLY bad idea, btw.

thought it might be but skoda mechanic said it be ok. least ill be prepared when the other goes wallop

Leave caliper on doesnt need removed

Replacing the spring on just one side of the car is a REALLY bad idea, btw.

plus 1!

its a really bad idea, you will have inbalanced handling.........one will be way better than the other..not good!

plus 1!

its a really bad idea, you will have inbalanced handling.........one will be way better than the other..not good!

the other side will have to wait a week or so..

thought it might be but skoda mechanic said it be ok.

Then said Skoda mechanic is a fool. Nuff said!

I find it easier to undo the drop link arm off the shock and leave on FARB as you get more room. To get the link arm out you will need to hold the ball joint in the arm with a 15 or 16mm spanner and then undo the nut on the end. To get drop link thread out of shock you may need to jack the shock back up to give a nice clear line for thread to be pulled out.

You will need to separate the back of the shock where it fits into Hub will either a hub separator tool or fat screw driver or similar else you will have a tough time getting shock out. You may need to press down on wishbone or lever it down with a trolley jack handle to get shock out from under wheel arch.

I find it easier to undo the drop link arm off the shock and leave on FARB as you get more room. To get the link arm out you will need to hold the ball joint in the arm with a 15 or 16mm spanner and then undo the nut on the end. To get drop link thread out of shock you may need to jack the shock back up to give a nice clear line for thread to be pulled out.

You will need to separate the back of the shock where it fits into Hub will either a hub separator tool or fat screw driver or similar else you will have a tough time getting shock out. You may need to press down on wishbone or lever it down with a trolley jack handle to get shock out from under wheel arch.

thanks for all the above. shock defo needs to go back up half inch or so to get the drop link thread out otherwise id say it will ruin the thread. didnt get time today(too many kids running away with sockets etc) so back at it tomorrow. have to get my hamds on a 21 ring spanner too :think:

no doubt ill be back on forum tomorrow...

Dont take my word on the 21 ring spanner! I havent done my octy yet but going by other stuff in the vag range i think it will be the same! But best to check before you shell out

Its good practice to change both springs but usually trying to convince customers they have to replace both is quiet difficult,

The shock is difficult to split from the hub, if you have a big bar then bar bar the bottom arm down so it pulls the hub down, nobodies mentioned loosening the hub nut and pushing the driveshaft back so you can pull the hub forward to give you abit more clearence

Another idea maybe stripping all bits off hub and taking 3 13mm out of ball joint and taking all lot out, shock and hub in one like pugs, be abit heavier to lift out but might be easier on drive

thought a chizel might part the hub..anyway better get crackin. thanks again

I tried this first on mine, and I failed, but when I then tried a socket drive allen key it worked a treat.