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Resetting Gear Linkage/Shifter


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Is there any specific knack to removing the battery and tray?

I want to adjust the shift linkage as per the video below. It's always felt notchy going into 3rd, and this will be my first port of call in trying to sort it.

I had a look last night, but the battery is completly in the way of the locking pin, and it's going to be a damn sight easier if I remove it.

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Just for future info incase anyone comes across this post, this is what we did.

I was planning on taking pictures as we went along, but got involved in the job and completely forgot.

Disconnect battery (negative first)

Remove the air intake pipe.

Unclip MAF connector

Remove air filter lid.

Remove air filter

To bottom right of air filter housing, is one bolt. Undo this.

Unclip MAF sensor cable clip from the back of the filter housing.

The filter housing should now pull up off the car. There is a rubber clip on the back that needs a good tug, but it should just pop off.

Now we can remove the battery and tray.

The battery should already be disconnected.

Remove the clip on cover at the front of the battery

You should then be able to see the metal clip that clamps the battery in.

Undo this nut, then pull the clip out.

The battery should now lift out. Lift out and put somewhere safe.

You should then be left with the battery tray, and the housing that goes around the battery.

The housing simply unclips, and is much easier to do as we removed the airbox first. Be careful with the clips as they get brittle and bust off easily.

Once this is removed, you should find 3 more bolts.

Two at the back of the battery tray, and one in the bottom of it.

Remove these bolts, then carefully lift up the battery tray a bit.

You'll find that there is a drain hose attached to the bottom of the battery tray. Give this a good tug and it will come off. It's only rubber hose and is simply clipped in.

Once you have it off, the tray should just come out the car.

There you have access to the gearbox and locking pin.

Reassembly is obviously the reverse of the above.

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  • 9 months later...

The original uploader has marked it as private.

Have a look at this one, it's fairly similar.

Also, I've found the original video on Vimeo.

I've uploaded the video to my YouTube account, and I've edited the original post with the correct link.

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  • 2 months later...

soz for bringing up an old thread but this has made a massive difference to my 1.4mpi now is no longer notchy going into 1st 2nd and 3rd also I never had to take my battery out it was only the air box that got in my way. very easy to do makes it a hell of a lot better.

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  • 5 months later...

For anyone in the future that uses this, below is my pic from a VRS, i have circled the locking Pin as its in a slightly different location from the video above.

 

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One final note - Do Not use a drill bit to lock the gearstick as is suggested in some places, it is around a 4mm hole on the VRS if i remember correctly, but if you are not careful a drill bit can be pushed/fall all the way down and it pig to retrieve....believe me I know! I used a small screwdriver from one of these sets; http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41S-BFAZRPL.jpg

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  • 7 months later...

Great video. Saved me a fortune! As JoshH said it is quite possible to do the adjustment simply by removing the air intake pipe.

 

The only problem I had was that the three claws had seized onto the threads. Before rechecking the video I thought it might be an earlier version that needed screwing up, rather than just reclamping. Bit of penetrating oil and a small screwdriver to gently ease the claws and the job was done.

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  • 7 years later...

I appreciate this is an old topic but just did this to my Skoda Fabia Mk1 2002 where initially 1st was difficult to engage then reverse went. On this car I only needed to remove engine cover (really to make life easier) and air feed tube, then I had complete access to the linkages. They were a bit stiff so I WD40 them and then clipped up the springs (anti clockwise I think to lock).  Locked gearshift with 5mm drill and plenty of masking tape on end so it didn't slip down! Then this was the slightly uncertain bit. Pushed bracket down on gearbox and locked the bracket and pushed the pin in (incidentally this does come out so be careful) to where I believe the bracket was locked i.e. didn't move much. Anyway released springs, unlocked gear shift and now first and reverse are fine but 5th is difficult to engage. Not sure having watched the video again I locked the pin correctly.

 

Now I can just do it again but can anyone clarify exactly what has to be done to the locking pin on the gearbox change bracket in the engine? Should the bracket be pushed in approx. 1/2" then the pin pushed in and point upwards to lock and bracket should be locked  - then release cable springs and afterwards release pin by pushing down again on bracket and turning pin down? Not sure I got this exactly right.

 

Any advise appreciated - Thank you.

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10 hours ago, coupe said:

Now I can just do it again but can anyone clarify exactly what has to be done to the locking pin on the gearbox change bracket in the engine? Should the bracket be pushed in approx. 1/2" then the pin pushed in and point upwards to lock and bracket should be locked  - then release cable springs and afterwards release pin by pushing down again on bracket and turning pin down? Not sure I got this exactly right.

 

Yes that's right. Push the selector down until you can turn the angled pin upwards to lock the selector. Release the cable springs and then push the selector down again and turn the angled pin back to horizontal.

Edited by TMB
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