My vRS is used for my daily work commute, nothing else.

Always use BP diesel and it has full (fixed - every 10K) main dealer service history.

My journey is 65 miles each way and I'm lucky in that its all quiet 60mph single carriageway and 70-80mph dual carriageway A roads.

It is a 2007 (57) with 45,000 miles on (12,000 miles of those by me in the above situation).

Today is one of the first times I've ever used the car on a weekend, a 15 minute trip up the road and back to my local wheel refurber.

On the way home sat at some lights I noticed a lumpy idle for a few seconds followed by the orange exhaust shaped DPF light appearing.

I was gobsmacked, if ever there was a DPF that got ample opportunity to regen then it's mine.

It just happens that it's booked in next week at Skoda for them to take (another) look at the cold starting issues so I'll be sure to tell them that something just isn't right - all this since the injector change, coincidence? Who knows!

Out of interest does anyone know how much a proper DPF removal (Shark?) would set me back?

My light only ever came on twice in 4 days, lumpy idle and dpf light on, was my exhaust pressure sensor, if sensor is faulty it won't regen properly.

Have u the new type sensor fitted?

Replaced my sensor which was original old type and all been fine 4 months later

My sensor went just before my injectors were done.

Light throttle as you mentioned in another thread the likely cause......Even if you do a 100mile trip but don't go above decent revs the soot will build up and the exhaust can't get enough heat to burn off. I drive lightly 99% of the time but like to give it a good blast now and again.

The results are clear on my Bora PD130 which just sits on a dual carriageway all day....then take it up to the redline through the gears up a slip road or something and it turns the sky black. Same thing with a DPF, there isn't enough pressure or heat to clear it out.

I was on the understanding that I need to achieve a pre-determined rpm for a set length of time for a regen to be successful?

A good blast on a non-DPF equipped car will help as all that soot is expelled out the end of the exhaust. On my car the DPF will catch all that soot and it will fill it up quicker.

I do give the car a blast each morning up a long steep hill but this is for the good of the turbo not the DPF.

At 70mph my PD170 is sat at around 2,500rpm - surely that is enough?

If city driving doesn't help and motorway driving isn't working I'm not quite sure what I'm supposed to do!

The wifes DPF equipped Scout does 10 miles / day and has done for three years - no DPF light.

If as Davidsr20 says this is a sensor fault then it should be picked up on the diagnostics next week? if it isn't then there must be something else wrong somewhere...

That is correct for a regen....I was talking about preventing it coming on in the first place.

A good blast is just as good on a DPF equipped car as it gets everything super hot, including the DPF allowing it to burn off quicker. Most of the soot you see on non DPF cars is usually soot from the exhaust system.

2.5k should be enough but on my CR i can do 20miles without the oil being up to temp (ie greater than 85c)......IF the oil isn't up to temp then the DPF can't possibly be i wouldn't have thought?!

You also need to check that your DPF sensor isn't made in the USA as these are inherently faulty. If it is then it will be replaced by a made in Malaysia one FOC.

Thanks JRW, I often wondered if the higher speeds might actually cool the DPF down which then prevents it from achieving the required temperature for a regen.

If I remember correctly the DPF on the PD170 isn't situated quite as close to the engine as it is on the CR170 because the engine was never designed for one so a slight compromise was needed to make it fit.

Can the soot be burned off with a good thrash rather than it actually having to regen?

On Monday morning I might try doing the same speeds but in 5th instead of 6th...

As said have a look at ur exhaust sensor and see where it's made.

I had same Symtoms and no matter how much I drove at high revs it would not regen,

New type sensor works great

I remember a thread recently which explained where to find the exhaust sensor, is it the one that's just behind the engine?

I'm off for another look now...

It's at the rear of the timing belt cover up on top, has a wire and two pipes going into it,

U can't miss it

Not this one then! Off for another look!

So you have the light on but haven't 'regened' as per the manual? If so you may now have screwed it up as as soon as the light comes on iirc you must go through the above 2.5-3k rpm process until the light goes off.

As for the sensor, it is the top left of the engine cover and looks like this:

Other back corner behind oil cap

Haha, getting closer then, saw the MADE IN USA and got excited, this one is at the front left just above the starter motor!

So you have the light on but haven't 'regened' as per the manual? If so you may now have screwed it up as as soon as the light comes on iirc you must go through the above 2.5-3k rpm process until the light goes off.

Yeah the light came on and stayed on for the 10 minutes back home.

To be fair I can't be expected to read the manual on the move. Monday mornings hour and a half commute will give me ample opportunity to try and get it to regen...

this is the location on mine:

Yeah the light came on and stayed on for the 10 minutes back home.

To be fair I can't be expected to read the manual on the move. Monday mornings hour and a half commute will give me ample opportunity to try and get it to regen...

You should be ok as long as it isn't flashing:

If the warning light ? comes on, this means that soot has accumulated in the

diesel particle filter because of the frequent short distances.

In order to clean the diesel particle filter, the vehicle should be driven at an even speed of at least 60 km/h at engine speeds of 1 800 - 2 500 rpm for at least 15 minutes or until the warning light goes out with the 4th or 5th gear engaged (auto- matic gearbox: position S) when the traffic situation permits it. This increases the exhaust temperature and the soot deposited in the diesel particle filter is burnt.

Always pay attention to the valid speed limits ? . The warning light ? goes out after the successful cleaning of the diesel particle

filter.

If the filter is not properly cleaned, the warning light ? does not go out and the warning light ? begins to flash. The following is displayed in the information display: Diesel-particle filter: Owner's manual! appears. Afterwards the engine control unit shifts the engine into the emergency mode, which only has a reduced power output. After switching the ignition off and on again the warning light ? comes on.

Have the vehicle inspected without delay by your specialist garage.

Hmm, thanks for the picture JRW, it's got me stumped though as my PD doesn't seem to have anything where your sensor is.

I took off the engine cover and the only sensor which looked close was this one, I had to unbutton a little heat protection cover, it did however have the same MADE IN USA grey plastic cover on it as in one of the earlier pictures I posted...

You should be ok as long as it isn't flashing:

Phew, no its not flashing, on constant.

Thanks for the manual quote, saves me rumaging through the glovebox. I'll give it a run to work in 4th and see if I can get it to go out.

Interesting how the manual refers to 'frequent short distances'. I don't qualify for this but as you say I can't be generating enough heat at 70mph in 6th, unless it is the exhaust sensor...

That looks like it on the silver bracket below the red arrow in the first pic above.

Ha lol it's rite under that red arrow

Spot on mate!

Managed to squeeze the camera behind it and the bulkhead...

Damn Yanks!

U have the old one so, I'm surprised it's lasted this long,

The new one is modified to regen properly so I'd say this could be ur problem.

New one cost me €50 and a vw mechanic done the adaption for me with vw/Skoda computer.

Iv had no bother since (4 months later or 7k km) touch wood

That's the problem then! Nice easy fix. Skoda assistance will do it too if you have it!

I'm out of Skoda warranty now so it'll be at my cost.

However, I do have an aftermarket warranty but I'm guessing it won't include sensors!

Would the sensor playing up have logged a fault I wonder?

It's likely I'm going to have to pay for some diagnostics next week so I'm just curious to know if it will be there for them to see when it's plugged in.

It should as mine counted the fault lots off times in the space of 3k km and the light only started coming on near the end.

Anyone with the old sensor should change it regardless of light on or not I think.